rebus
Active Member
Posts: 17
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Post by rebus on Mar 14, 2013 19:32:45 GMT
Hi All, I am currently in the middle of stripping down my 5 inch butch I recently acquired and decided a repaint was in order, upon removal of the "lagging cover" for lack of the correct word I discovered the lagging material and am concerned it may be asbestos, from the attached picture can anyone advise if it is and if so the replacement for it as being one of the younger members of our hobby I don’t fancy dying in the next 10 years from asbestos related illnesses  i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg605/Rebus1337/Butch/20130314_191300.jpgMany Thanks Rebus |
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RLWP
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 319
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Post by RLWP on Mar 14, 2013 20:03:34 GMT
It looks like a fire blanket to me, if it is you are quite safe If you are concerned, soak it in water before you handle it to contain any fibres Richard  |
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
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Post by jma1009 on Mar 15, 2013 0:19:40 GMT
hi rebus,
richard's advice is very good re-soaking with water. the white asbestos that looks like rockwool loft insulation is the stuff to watch out for and the even deadlier blue asbestos. however if in doubt do remove what you have on BUTCH.
ceramic fibre insulation is available in various thicknesses as a replacement. some people use cork, and others aluminium foil sandwiched between other stuff. my own concern with boiler insulation has been to protect the paintwork on the boiler cleading and boiler bands and the lining out on same, and reduce heat transfer from the boiler to the tanks on a loco with side or saddle tanks. where my locos have domes i also wrap plenty of insulation around the inner dome.
cheers,
julian
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rebus
Active Member
Posts: 17
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Post by rebus on Mar 18, 2013 18:30:00 GMT
Thank's for your reply's, i think i will dunk it in a bucket of water before i remove any more and replace with some kaowool of which a friend has advised is a good replacement, i just hope it keeps a bit more heat in than what i am taking off On a side note can anyone advise on what the compound is i need to use between the boiler and smokebox when i put it all back together. Thanks Rebus |
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
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Post by jma1009 on Mar 18, 2013 22:23:05 GMT
hi rebus,
i bought a load of kaowool from Reeves years ago and it has done sterling service. must have used it up on 3 or 4 locos plus a central heating boiler in the kitchen of a former house!
the smokebox to boiler joint should be a good fit...any gaps make up shim to jam in between. before final assembly any decent car type gasket sealer or silicone sealer will do liberally applied to both surfaces. the old Red Hermatite sealer i always used to use was also excellent, but seems to be no longer available and the substitute stuff is not very good. i always really on a mechanical joint around the steam pipes and blast pipe and smokebox base, plus some sealer added for good measure.
cheers,
julian
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2013 17:15:23 GMT
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Post by Roger on Nov 9, 2013 21:38:17 GMT
I'd like to lag the boiler on 'Speedy' but the boiler as drawn doesn't allow for it. I've come across this insulation product which can be purchased in thicknesses down to 0.5mm which I'm considering using. Can anyone tell me what the metal covering sheet should be and what thickness? I'm assuming it's just mild steel. It this is all thin enough, the smokebox wouldn't need to be very much larger in diameter to mate up with it. I don't really want to shrink the boiler diameter unless I have to since it's all a bit tight in there.
Any thoughts on that?
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Post by ejparrott on Nov 10, 2013 8:48:59 GMT
20swg is quite a common size for cleading, brass usually, which I hate. Its harder to paint, and really shows if the paint gets scratched. Mine will be steel.
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,458
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Post by SteveW on Nov 10, 2013 13:35:30 GMT
I believe that even if this stuff is asbestos it won't need much more than a light spray of water just to trap any fly away dust. Certainly anything that does shed dust needs be treated with respect but you really don't need to treat it in the same way you would a radio-active-turd. Any workshop should include a face mask of some type which should be enough for this.
As for what to replace it with... a while back I had some success using the ceramic cloth to replace the cornflake packet and string that was there. The stuff in the picture looks very similar to the products used in and around wood burning stoves to provide a door seal.
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Post by Roger on Nov 10, 2013 16:04:47 GMT
20swg is quite a common size for cleading, brass usually, which I hate. Its harder to paint, and really shows if the paint gets scratched. Mine will be steel. Thanks for that, I've made a note of it and it makes good sense to me. Roger |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2013 14:04:39 GMT
Hello all------------ bit late with this one but whilst employed within the MoD the rule of thumb was}--- If you don't know what it is for sure then treat it as if it WAS asbestos....In this case the submerging in a bucket of water ( or the spray) covers that part...Given the very small quantity the real risk might actually come from cutting a finger whilst handling it.  |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2013 14:07:55 GMT
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
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Post by jma1009 on Nov 13, 2013 0:15:30 GMT
a bit off topic but when i moved house in 1995 i discovered soon after that the cold water tank in the loft was covered with white asbestos of the stuff second only deadly to blue asbestos. the house was a few hundred yards from Ryde IOW loco works and am quite sure the stuff came from there. i removed it subsequently.... i dont expect to have a long retirement, although well sprayed with water at the time!
cheers,
julian
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