Split Axles Boxes

[Smifffy]

Hi, I'm in the process of building myself a Martin Evan's "Royal Engineer". So far, I'm about 3 years into a probably 20 year project. the Front Bogie and Main Frames (with Horns) have so far been completed.
I'm now slowly working my way through the axle boxes, but am struggling with interpreting the drawing. They are split boxes, so a little more complicated than plain ones, but I really cannot visualise what I'm trying to achieve.
Does anyone out there have an example that they could photograph and senf me some pictures ? I'm sure that once I see the final result, all will become clear!
Of course, it is possible that I will be even more confused :-)
Thanks in advance.
Mark

[Laurie_B]

A while ago I made a set of split axleboxes for a 5" gauge BR Class 2 loco that I'm building.The 'boxes comprised two parts:the main body (a sort of 'U' shape) and the keep-which goes in between the sides of the main body;the two parts then being assembled and bored out to suit the axles.The keep is retained by two 3/32" dowel pins.
Perhaps you could scan the part of the drawing covering the axlebox and post the image on the board?

[Smifffy]

Hi Laurie,

Your description fits the boxes I am making, at least to a degree. I also have two "hangars" (terminology almost certainly wrong) which come out of the bottom of the "keep" as you describe it. I'll have a go at scanning the dwg tommorow and posting the relevant part, but in the mean time, I'll try and describe my concern:

Both sides of the keep have "shoulders" to allow for the "hangars" to fit, the hangars being retained by a single pin - what I cannot visualise is how the cut back shoulders will fit in relation to the two retaining dowel pins - hence just getting a view of a similar completed axle box wil probably help.

As stated, I'll post the drawing tomorrow.

Thanks

Mark

[Deleted]

Mark,

I to am planning to build a Royal Engineer soon and when I read this post I went and got out my set of drawing and I think I have worked out how the Split boxes work. I will post my thoughts later as I have just finished work and my brain is to tired to think now

If you have any probs posting a picture of the drawings let me know as I can do it

Jonathan

[Smifffy]

OK, so here's the scanned drawing:



From this, I've managed to come up with two interpretations, but both have their problems:



In the first, the "shoulder" is coincidental with the bottom of the holes for the retaing pins.

In the second, the side elevation on the drawing (effectively looking down the lenght of the axle) is not right as this would mean the "Hangars" should be shown with a dotted line.

Any help will be very much appreciated.

Regards

Mark

[Smifffy]

Hmmm, trying to post pictures from a Fotopic site obviously doesn't work! Here's the link to the site:

photosbymark.photos.gb.net/c1198451.html

Regards

Mark

[Nigel Bennett]

One of the main reasons for split axleboxes is so that you can remove them and remetal them when they become worn. (Apart from the obvious one of prototype fidelity). Unless you're going to be running your loco a lot, (hundreds of hours!) is it worth the trouble? Why not simplify things and fit one-piece axleboxes? You could also incorporate needle roller bearings as many do. If you Loctite the wheels on, a bit of heat will fetch them off if you ever need to correct any wear later.

[Smifffy]

..great advice, thanks. But I've already machined all six of the Main blocks and Keepers and really don't want to throw my good work away!

For my next build, I will follow your advice :-)

[Laurie_B]

smifffy said:

Hmmm, trying to post pictures from a Fotopic site obviously doesn't work! Here's the link to the site:

photosbymark.photos.gb.net/c1198451.html

Regards

Mark

Mark,I've been looking at your drawing (and in Martin Evans' book on model steam loco construction) and I think your ''Alternative Interpretation'' is possibly the right one.
The axlebox drawings in Martin Evans book don't show a lot more detail,so I'm guessing that the recesses for the spring rods would be end milled,just sufficient to fit the rod end,thus retaining a bigger contact area between keep and box.
You'll have to blame me if it's wrong!

[Deleted]

Mark I would have to agree with Laurie B that the second drawing is the way I would do it.

When I come to do mine I think I will make solid boxes with roller bearings like mentioned.

Jonathan

[Deleted]

Hi Mark
I think your first interpretation is the one that Martin Evans intended, as I have Torquay Manor article in the M.E., and on the drawing looking from the horn slot there is a dotted line just below the retaining pin. In the write up Martin says slot the hornkeeps for the springpins.
On your drawing the bottom of the retaining pin and the top of the springpin slot do coincide, whilst on the Torquay Manor there is 1/32 of metal left. This doesn't really matter as the pins will still stop the keep from moving and it is, or should be, a close fit in the axlebox so it is pretty well located.
However, I think your alternative is a better solution, as you are only cutting away the metal you need for the spring pins and no more. If I were doing it, then this is the way I would do it.

Hope this helps, and in case anyone asks, no I'm not building a Manor, I just happened to be browsing through some old M.E. 's and came across it.
Regards
Trevor

[Smifffy]

For those that are interested, I've posted a few pictures of one set of (almost) completed Axle Boxes and Axle. I've yet to put a radius the edges of the blocks - that'll have to wait till I get myself a rotarty table.

Pictures are here:

photosbymark.photos.gb.net/p49356796.html
photosbymark.photos.gb.net/p49356795.html
photosbymark.photos.gb.net/p49356794.html

Thanks again to for your help.