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Post by delaplume on Dec 14, 2018 9:39:08 GMT
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Post by Roger on Dec 14, 2018 10:21:21 GMT
Hi Alan, Remember, I'm all Metric with this build... The heads are going to be tiny, so I don't think it's practical to use screws. I'm just going to push rivets into the holes with a dab of Loctite, there's no real strength required and it will look fine. |
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Post by terrier060 on Dec 14, 2018 11:47:43 GMT
Great work Roger - you make me feel guilty as I haven't done much - preparing for the granddaughter coming over from Sweden for Christmas.
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Post by Roger on Dec 14, 2018 22:22:20 GMT
I've drilled out the tapped holes in the buffer stock and tapped the thin backplates M1.6 for the studs. All 16 studs have been cut to length and this is how it looks at the moment. Although the buffer stocks have their nuts painted over red, I'm considering using Stainless nuts and leaving them bare. It's hard to know what to do for the best really. If they get painted, will it look a mess?  20181214_221713 by Roger Froud, on Flickr This is the 'Everlasting' blowdown valve, made from Leaded Bronze because I've got some left over from my old business of repairing Air Bearing Spindles. The boss on the top will be turned on the lathe, screw cut and the 'O' ring groove added. It's thrown up a big burr because the cutter is a bit worn and Leaded Bronze needs a really sharp edge to cut cleanly. It doesn't matter because it's getting tidied up anyway. There are two of these LH and RH so that they can be operated by the same method on either side of the locomotive.  20181214_204123 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 961 
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Post by don9f on Dec 14, 2018 23:28:36 GMT
Good job on the new buffer back plates....I don’t think they’ll look a mess with red nuts! As always though, it’s your choice.
The blowdown valve looks the dogs doo-dahs too! I’m interested to know why there are two on 1501....is that how the 15xx were built, or is it a mod done since preservation for some reason....anyone know?
Cheers Don
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Post by terrier060 on Dec 14, 2018 23:30:57 GMT
Definitely paint them Roger, it will look odd otherwise. Just hand paint them carefully with a fine brush.
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Post by delaplume on Dec 15, 2018 0:07:10 GMT
Good job on the new buffer back plates....I don’t think they’ll look a mess with red nuts! As always though, it’s your choice. The blowdown valve looks the dogs doo-dahs too! I’m interested to know why there are two on 1501....is that how the 15xx were built, or is it a mod done since preservation for some reason....anyone know? Cheers Don Hi Don-- Can't help you re}--1501 mods etc..Try contacting the 1501 group for details ??......A similar thread appeared on here in JAN 2015 ( Blowdown )........... "Everlasting" is the manufacturer's name.........They use a semi-rotating circular valve plate that automatically beds itself in ... |
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Post by David on Dec 15, 2018 4:34:11 GMT
My vote goes to painting the fasteners. I think it would look odd otherwise.
That blowdown valve is excellent!
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Post by Roger on Dec 15, 2018 8:20:03 GMT
Good job on the new buffer back plates....I don’t think they’ll look a mess with red nuts! As always though, it’s your choice. The blowdown valve looks the dogs doo-dahs too! I’m interested to know why there are two on 1501....is that how the 15xx were built, or is it a mod done since preservation for some reason....anyone know? Cheers Don Hi Don, I don't know for what 1501 has by way of blowdown valves, the only clue seems to be on drawing 126497 which shows the piping. There looks like something that could be a blowdown valve on the bottom of the backhead. That's where they are on the SPEEDY plans, but I decided to put them at the lowest point which is on the throatplate, even though I had no idea how I was going to open them! I hadn't heard of 'Everlasting' valves. So 1501 may only have one, I don't know. I thought I'd fit two like SPEEDY has so it would clear right into the corners where the dross is likely to accumulate. |
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Post by Roger on Dec 15, 2018 8:21:27 GMT
Good job on the new buffer back plates....I don’t think they’ll look a mess with red nuts! As always though, it’s your choice. The blowdown valve looks the dogs doo-dahs too! I’m interested to know why there are two on 1501....is that how the 15xx were built, or is it a mod done since preservation for some reason....anyone know? Cheers Don Hi Don-- Can't help you re}--1501 mods etc..Try contacting the 1501 group for details ??......A similar thread appeared on here in JAN 2015 ( Blowdown )........... "Everlasting" is the manufacturer's name.........They use a semi-rotating circular valve plate that automatically beds itself in ... If you google "Everlasting blowdown" you'll find that they're still going strong. |
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Post by Roger on Dec 15, 2018 8:51:02 GMT
Painted nuts it is then, I think I'll have to do that by hand afterwards as suggested. I'll have to order some Mild Steel nuts though.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 15, 2018 9:12:55 GMT
Hi Roger.
Lovely job those buffer stocks! Spray the nuts insitu when you spray the buffer stocks. I did on mine and they look fine. If you use a brush it will look 'blobby' because the paint coat will be far too thick compared with the other parts.
Bob.
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Post by Roger on Dec 15, 2018 9:43:33 GMT
Hi Roger. Lovely job those buffer stocks! Spray the nuts insitu when you spray the buffer stocks. I did on mine and they look fine. If you use a brush it will look 'blobby' because the paint coat will be far too thick compared with the other parts. Bob. Thanks Bob, How would you suggest I paint the whole thing? The thickness of the back plate has been made exactly the same as the rebait so that back is flat against the buffer. I could clean it all off and bolt the back plate on with a metal to metal contact and then prime everything except the bore and the main back thread. I need to get red paint under the step before adding that, so perhaps it's going to take one coat on each part, let it cure and add the step with the rivets being bare metal, then spray over the whole thing? I could prime the tops of the rivets, they only get pushed into the hole with a tiny spot of Loctite, so the heads could be primed before they're fitted. Does that sound plausible? Obviously on the real thing, the back plate is painted separately, but I've allowed quite a big chamfer so perhaps painting it as one piece is acceptable? |
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 961
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Post by don9f on Dec 15, 2018 15:37:55 GMT
Hi, just for interest, here's the Everlasting Valve on 92220 photographed at York some years ago. We are looking between the frames at the lower part of the throatplate with the valve situated towards the Fireman's side. It is operated by a lever arrangement that allows access from outside the frames and is fitted with a latch so it shouldn't open unintentionally! The discharge (which naturally on a big 250psi boiler is quite violent) is taken down through the pipe you can see, to a diffuser/baffle thing before coming out below the bottom of the frames. If operated over ballasted track, it would blow the ballast out from between the sleepers in the vicinity. Certainly in the 1990's. they were still available from America and one was obtained for fitting to 92214 during its restoration....note the attachment via a 3 stud flange to the throatplate. It was used regularly throughout my involvement and never gave any trouble whatsoever. Cheers Don  |
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Post by Cro on Dec 15, 2018 15:41:00 GMT
I have a pair of castings for this sat next to the 9f. Sadly the boiler I have has the blow down on the side of the firebox but I am yet to work out if I can do some clever piping under the plate work to bring it onto the throatplate.
Adam
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Post by terrier060 on Dec 15, 2018 16:40:53 GMT
Have you got a drawing Roger for the blowdown? It looks a grand job and I have very limited space on the Terriers so I think I am going to fit them.
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Post by Roger on Dec 15, 2018 17:01:24 GMT
Have you got a drawing Roger for the blowdown? It looks a grand job and I have very limited space on the Terriers so I think I am going to fit them. Hi Ed, I don't have a works drawing, I just guessed the sizes to suit what flow I needed. You're more than welcome to the drawing or stp file of the pieces if it's of any use. |
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Dec 15, 2018 17:05:09 GMT
I agree with painting them, otherwise they will stand out a little too much.
That everlasting blowdown valve looks superb! It's one of the parts I'm actually quite looking forward to making for the Britannia, oddly. Top work as always.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 15, 2018 17:23:48 GMT
Hi Roger. Lovely job those buffer stocks! Spray the nuts insitu when you spray the buffer stocks. I did on mine and they look fine. If you use a brush it will look 'blobby' because the paint coat will be far too thick compared with the other parts. Bob. Thanks Bob, How would you suggest I paint the whole thing? The thickness of the back plate has been made exactly the same as the rebait so that back is flat against the buffer. I could clean it all off and bolt the back plate on with a metal to metal contact and then prime everything except the bore and the main back thread. I need to get red paint under the step before adding that, so perhaps it's going to take one coat on each part, let it cure and add the step with the rivets being bare metal, then spray over the whole thing? I could prime the tops of the rivets, they only get pushed into the hole with a tiny spot of Loctite, so the heads could be primed before they're fitted. Does that sound plausible? Obviously on the real thing, the back plate is painted separately, but I've allowed quite a big chamfer so perhaps painting it as one piece is acceptable? Hi Roger.
That does sound a reasonable way of doing it as the buffer stocks have to be the same colour as the buffer beam. When I originally painted my buffer stocks, they were already assembled to the buffer beam and so I just masked off the frames, and the edges of the buffer beam as they are Black, with brown packing paper and low tack masking tape, and sprayed the whole lot Red. Now I've replaced the footsteps on my buffer stocks, with the dimples pressed in as a diamond pattern instead of the wrong square pattern, I have to repaint so I shall do exactly the same and, using low tack plastic masking tape (Precision or Tamiya) I shall just repaint the whole lot. As the paint film won't be more than a couple of thou at the most, the extra coat of paint on the buffer beam won't be a problem. I don't know what colour 1501 has on the edges of the buffer beam but BR always painted the edges Black, with just the face of the beam, and the stocks, painted Red.
Bob.
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Post by Roger on Dec 15, 2018 18:07:32 GMT
This is the front half of the 'Everlasting valve' The outside was cleared with a 16mm 4-flute Carbide cutter, the bosses were cleared with a 3mm radius mill with a 0.5mm corner radius to leave a radius at the base of the features.  20181215_134735 by Roger Froud, on Flickr A 5.5mm 3-flute cleared the profile. The outlet has an M7 tapped hole which is not one of the usual sizes, it usually skips from M6 to M8. I believe that VW cars do use that size in some places.  20181215_144803 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Having parted that off, the remaining piece wasn't big enough to machine the second front half. There's a hole in the stock that's not going to matter. The Steel piece has a small stub on it to centre it on the Leaded Bronze.  20181215_145920 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Here it is fluxed and with a loop of Silver Solder wrapped around it...  20181215_150448 by Roger Froud, on Flickr ... and then heated. No further Silver Solder was required.  20181215_150629 by Roger Froud, on Flickr  20181215_150830 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The Steel piece was held in the chuck so there was enough Leaded Bronze standing clear for the job.  20181215_151614 (1) by Roger Froud, on Flickr This is the first pair with the outsides tidied up.  20181215_174933 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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