jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,913
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Post by jma1009 on Oct 7, 2019 22:18:35 GMT
This is all getting a bit silly as I am accused of lying by Adam.
Again suggest you watch and listen to the first few minutes of the 'Titfield Thunderbolt' film.
Cheers, Julian
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Post by Cro on Oct 7, 2019 22:24:24 GMT
No Accusation at all Julian. Just would love to hear your whistles you speak of, unless I miss-read your post about producing these two whistles such as you have advised Roger to do?
Roger has done an amazing job producing a 3D printed whistle and regardless of what we want our own to sound like I think we need to step back and remember how impressive that is!
Adam
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Post by Roger on Oct 7, 2019 22:30:29 GMT
Ok, let's draw a line under this, I can't be doing with any more whistle discussion if it's going to get personal and unnecessary. No more posts on this subject please, I've heard enough!
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Post by danlank on Oct 8, 2019 20:30:32 GMT
Didn’t LBSC describe a kind of resonant sound box for making a lower register whistle in Shop, Shed and Road? Don’t know if some of the principle could be applied?
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Post by Roger on Oct 8, 2019 21:24:38 GMT
Didn’t LBSC describe a kind of resonant sound box for making a lower register whistle in Shop, Shed and Road? Don’t know if some of the principle could be applied? I'm sure I've seen something like that too. I'll have to do a bit of digging when I come to consider a lower tone.
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Post by Roger on Oct 8, 2019 21:29:37 GMT
Here is the valve part of the servo, Stainless Steel and Fluorosint for the valve element 20191008_213054 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr It's pretty small... 20191008_213847 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr The 0.5mm thick Stainless Steel washers for the diaphragm are fiddly to finish once parted off, so I'm using a pencil eraser to help move them around on the Wet & Dry. 20191008_220634 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr I'm thinking that I ought to have made the outside of the flange a hex so I could hold it while doing up the nuts. I might make that again once I know the design is good. 20191008_222122 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr
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Post by Roger on Oct 8, 2019 21:43:01 GMT
Just a quick question.... has anyone used Nickel Electroplating on bright Steel components such as connecting rods to prevent them from rusting? I'm considering using it on some of the linkages on the inside of the frame where they might go rusty. Painting isn't that satisfactory on links because you can't protect the parts where the links work against each other. I've been watching this video on YouTube and it looks really simple to do. To that end, I've bought a piece of Nickel and some Vinegar to have a go when I get a minute. It will be interesting to see if the finish looks ok or whether it would look wrong for the bigger more visible items.
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Post by danlank on Oct 8, 2019 21:45:45 GMT
Didn’t LBSC describe a kind of resonant sound box for making a lower register whistle in Shop, Shed and Road? Don’t know if some of the principle could be applied? I'm sure I've seen something like that too. I'll have to do a bit of digging when I come to consider a lower tone. Found it - I’m sure you’ve got the book but let me know if you haven’t and I can send you the text. No idea how well it works, but might be worth a look!
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Post by simplyloco on Oct 9, 2019 1:15:24 GMT
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Post by Roger on Oct 9, 2019 7:07:08 GMT
I'm sure I've seen something like that too. I'll have to do a bit of digging when I come to consider a lower tone. Found it - I’m sure you’ve got the book but let me know if you haven’t and I can send you the text. No idea how well it works, but might be worth a look! Thanks, yes, that's the picture I remember seeing. I'm pretty sure I've got a copy of Shop Shed & Road amongst a big pile of books I was given to take to the club, I'll have a look.
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Post by Roger on Oct 9, 2019 7:09:08 GMT
Hi John, That's a different arrangement to one I've seen, it's a pity he doesn't show a drawing to make it clearer how it works. I cringe every time I see someone using emery paper in the lathe like that, heaven knows how much grinding paste must be between the carriage and the bed! That's an absolute no no in my book.
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Post by 92220 on Oct 9, 2019 7:47:55 GMT
Just a quick question.... has anyone used Nickel Electroplating on bright Steel components such as connecting rods to prevent them from rusting? I'm considering using it on some of the linkages on the inside of the frame where they might go rusty. Painting isn't that satisfactory on links because you can't protect the parts where the links work against each other. I've been watching this video on YouTube and it looks really simple to do. To that end, I've bought a piece of Nickel and some Vinegar to have a go when I get a minute. It will be interesting to see if the finish looks ok or whether it would look wrong for the bigger more visible items. Hi Roger. I've been looking into nickel plating too, and it looks as if electroless nickel also works well, and gives a very even coating. You also have the choice of bright and matt finish. Bob.
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Post by Doug on Oct 9, 2019 7:48:28 GMT
Just a quick question.... has anyone used Nickel Electroplating on bright Steel components such as connecting rods to prevent them from rusting? I'm considering using it on some of the linkages on the inside of the frame where they might go rusty. Painting isn't that satisfactory on links because you can't protect the parts where the links work against each other. I've been watching this video on YouTube and it looks really simple to do. To that end, I've bought a piece of Nickel and some Vinegar to have a go when I get a minute. It will be interesting to see if the finish looks ok or whether it would look wrong for the bigger more visible items. Honesty think it’s very unlikely to rust, rebuilding a 1947 Maisie currently that hasn’t been touched for over 40years and all the insides of the frames are rust free, so much oil ends up on all the links and bars that air will never see the surface. But yes it would work, that’s exactly what happens to all the bright work where I work on airframe actuators they are nickel plated. ATB Doug
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,072
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Post by stevep on Oct 9, 2019 8:36:01 GMT
Hi John, That's a different arrangement to one I've seen, it's a pity he doesn't show a drawing to make it clearer how it works. I cringe every time I see someone using emery paper in the lathe like that, heaven knows how much grinding paste must be between the carriage and the bed! That's an absolute no no in my book. Totally agree. I have polished things in the lathe before now, but I always cover the bed with kitchen roll before starting, and then gather it up carefully afterwards. I also cringed at the huge (and coarse) file used to round the edges.
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Post by jon38r80 on Oct 9, 2019 10:11:04 GMT
I havent nickel plated engine parts cos I dont make them but have electroplated lock parts after derusting them. You will realy need to clean the parts thourougly or it wont take very well . You can get a coating but it will flake off. I used a plating solution from Access Chemicals in Tamworth via a company called Youplate. Can get their stuff on Ebay surprise surprise. I cleaned the metal parts using a solution from Dry Acid Salts. The bit of nickel gets eaten away quite quickly . I used titanium wire to suspend the parts in the solution. They have a website and the usual Utube stuff. You only need a couple of D cells to power it. I was very pleased with the result. www.youplate.co.uk/Usual disclaimer, im not associated with them in any way except as a customer. IMG_1888 by Jon Jones, on Flickr IMG_1895 by Jon Jones, on Flickr
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Post by jon38r80 on Oct 9, 2019 10:13:19 GMT
The finish is not smooth/shiny as it is plated over acid etched rusty old part made in about 1930 but I just wanred to stop the rust IMG_1897 by Jon Jones, on Flickr
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Post by Roger on Oct 9, 2019 10:30:16 GMT
The finish is not smooth/shiny as it is plated over acid etched rusty old part made in about 1930 but I just wanred to stop the rust IMG_1897 by Jon Jones, on Flickr Excellent, that looks like it's worthwhile having a go at.
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Post by simplyloco on Oct 9, 2019 17:53:33 GMT
Old hand precision engineers like me usually select the largest, coarsest file available to start most jobs, choosing progressively smaller ones to suit the required finish. Oiled Emery cloth in the lathe is fine too We also tend to keep a more practical perspective on model engineering versus toolmaking... John
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Post by Oily Rag on Oct 9, 2019 19:37:07 GMT
"The 0.5mm thick Stainless Steel washers for the diaphragm are fiddly to finish once parted off, so I'm using a pencil eraser to help move them around on the Wet & Dry."I have picked up on a good tip this morning and the day is still young at 05:36
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Post by delaplume on Oct 10, 2019 10:23:09 GMT
I seem to remember the LBSC resonator was also used to get that distinctive Stanier "Hooter" sound for the likes of 8F's and Black 5's etc...??
Similarly over in the land of the "Black Art" Battery Electric Diesel locos they mount their sound system loudspeakers in ( or at the end of ) a resonator tube etc to enhance the exhaust noise......
In both examples the common problem is that of physical size required for the resonator chamber....Keith Appleton's seems to be partway towards curing it.
PS}--- Hello John and thanks for that Keith Appleton link ......I've heard of the name but never seen his tutorial videos before........What a great chap !!... Easy-going with a pleasant "Bedside manner" so to speak.....
Alan
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