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Post by ettingtonliam on Jul 15, 2020 13:03:22 GMT
Ah, but when the engine is assembled, you won't be able to see both tanks at the same time!
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Post by delaplume on Jul 15, 2020 13:29:49 GMT
so one green and one pink it is then !!-------LoL !!
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Post by Roger on Jul 15, 2020 21:03:35 GMT
Here are the 30 mounts I printed last night, and a bunch of other ones ready for mounting. 20200715_101451 by Roger Froud, on Flickr And a few more. 20200715_170018 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I machined the square ended dummy adjusters for this cover on the smokebox and Loctited them in place. This one is also on a 1.6mm mount ready for Shot blasting and painting. 20200715_215521 by Roger Froud, on Flickr This is one half of the mounted parts plus a few extras. The large set of steps is going to get blasted and sprayed as an assembly. This solves the problem with what to do with the bolt heads on that middle supporting bracket. The rear steps has a square mount that will be attached when I've primed the face it's sitting on. The same goes for the mount on the big steps. 20200715_215421 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I need to drill a few more 8mm holes in the plywood that needs to hold all of these.
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Post by Roger on Jul 16, 2020 14:58:23 GMT
Here's the assorted parts ready for shot blasting... 20200716_105131 by Roger Froud, on Flickr ... and here they are done. I was gentle with the Brass 1501 name plates but they still bowed! At least Brass is so weak that it's just as easy to straighten it out. 20200716_122447 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Since I've settled on M8 threads for the bulk of the mounts, I added a load more holes to the drying and storage sheet. I've blown it off with an air gun then sprayed it with varnish to keep the dust down. 20200716_113339 by Roger Froud, on Flickr These parts will need mounting, so I've just primed the faces that will be against the mount. Once those are dry, I can mount them and each can be sprayed all over at subsequent stages. 20200716_150007 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_150015 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_150024 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_150200 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_151108 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_151415 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_151532 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_151925 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_153952 by Roger Froud, on Flickr 20200716_154001 by Roger Froud, on Flickr
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Post by coniston on Jul 16, 2020 19:49:22 GMT
Nice work Roger, I bet you're putting in much more effort on yours than Swindon ever did on the full size. Should really look the part when finished.
Chris D
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Post by chris vine on Jul 16, 2020 22:50:09 GMT
Hi Roger,
I love your printed Paint Sticks!!
If you can make your drying board to fit into a cupboard of some sorts, there will be less risk of dust dropping on things as they dry. Equally, if it isn't being a problem - Carry On!!
Chris.
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Post by Roger on Jul 17, 2020 7:08:40 GMT
Hi Roger, I love your printed Paint Sticks!! If you can make your drying board to fit into a cupboard of some sorts, there will be less risk of dust dropping on things as they dry. Equally, if it isn't being a problem - Carry On!! Chris. Hi Chris, The 3D printing came as a surprise to me, I certainly didn't plan on using it for that purpose. It does solve a number of problems though. Sadly I'm very short of space to put things down. I think the best I could do would be to make a 'U' shaped piece to stand over the drying area. At the moment, I'm not finding dust to be a big issue because I leave the fans running all day to keep it under control. Obviously I have to go in and out, so that must let in more dust though. I may rig up something for the larger parts which might be more problematical.
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Post by 92220 on Jul 17, 2020 7:50:02 GMT
Hi Roger.
Chris suggests putting the painted items in a cupboard to dry, to keep dust off them. It is a logical thought, but unfortunately not practical. Unless the cupboard is the size of a small room it will cause problems with the drying of the paint. A cupboard will trap the solvent vapours and considerably lengthen the time it takes for the paint to dry. The best way to stop dust falling on the newly painted parts is to have a cover like an upturned box to act as a dust shield, extending sideways by a few inches, and raised up on stilts so that the solvent vapours can flow away, as they are heavier than air. You must allow air to be able to replace the solvent vapours that need to disipate, other wise you have 2 problems....1. the paint takes much much longer to dry, and 2. it can double the time taken for the paint to cure fully. This applies to all air drying paints. 2-pack paints dry by chemical action so can dry in a solvent laden atmosphere, though it can have an effect on the curing time too.
Bob.
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Post by chris vine on Jul 17, 2020 8:59:52 GMT
My cupboard was used to dry only the small parts on paint sticks and, being an old kitchen unit, was quite ill fitting.
It certainly worked well and didn't cause a problem with the paint drying and curing. For large parts, there would be a lot more solvent to get rid of.
Chris.
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Post by Roger on Jul 17, 2020 9:52:02 GMT
I don't know that I was thinking of when I shot blasted and sprayed all of the name plates. I think it was because the one on the Smokebox is completely painted so I didn't even think about it. That took ages to clean up the outside, so I paid the price for that! Anyway, one solution is to 3D print a pocketed frame to drop over the outside and stop the paint from getting on there. I can't realistically do the same for the face of the numbers, but those are not too difficult to strip of paint when it's finished. The awful finish on the face of the RH print is because I've just been overspraying the 3DLAC (hairspray) on the print platform each time I've printed something rather than stripping it off each time. It's lazy, but the recent prints have all been rough and ready mounts that didn't matter. So the surface I've printed these on was a bit of a mess, hence the finish. I've cleaned it off now. 20200717_085511 by Roger Froud, on Flickr These have already been lightly shot blasted and the backs primed, so I've mounted them using M1.6 x 20 cap screws. I've left the screws long and just put lock nuts to hold them in place. 20200717_100019 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I'm only painting the pole reverser and the main quadrant bracket and cover plate. The notched plates for the quadrant will be chemically blacked since they're only going to get chipped. I'll lightly oil those with preserving oil to stop them from rusting. The handle isn't painted, so it's the obvious way to hold it. 20200717_101123 by Roger Froud, on Flickr And finally, here's the first use for the little pyramid supports. 20200717_101140 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Again, I had to narrow the spray pattern to get into the corners on the steps. Once that was done, the pattern was increased to finish it off. 20200717_101352 by Roger Froud, on Flickr it's too hot for painting really, so I think I'll have to wait for a cooler time to do the Black enamel. 20200717_102636 by Roger Froud, on Flickr
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Post by jon38r80 on Jul 17, 2020 10:21:56 GMT
Another usefull thing to have is a flat turntable. those bits you put on the pyramids, put on top of a turntable make it easy to get a nice even finish all round. Simply loco has one I think in some of his painting pictures. Thereare many on ebay, and the Chinese websites ready made, a lazy susan turn table ( just a couple of pounds) and a couple of wood discs is How I made mine. With your 3D printer, I am sure you can come up with something.
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Post by 92220 on Jul 17, 2020 10:26:26 GMT
Hi Roger.
With the number plates, you can paint all over and then clean up the numbers and surround by rubbing on a new sheet or wet & dry, supported on the surface table. If you get the paint off with, say 240, then 800, wet n' dry, you can then polish the numbers and surround by rubbing against 2500 grade wet n' dry. You can hold the number plate, to do this, by sticking it to a larger block of metal, with blue tac. You could also solder it to a block with one of the very low temp solders that melt at around 70 or 80C
Bob
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Post by Roger on Jul 17, 2020 10:57:37 GMT
Another usefull thing to have is a flat turntable. those bits you put on the pyramids, put on top of a turntable make it easy to get a nice even finish all round. Simply loco has one I think in some of his painting pictures. Thereare many on ebay, and the Chinese websites ready made, a lazy susan turn table ( just a couple of pounds) and a couple of wood discs is How I made mine. With your 3D printer, I am sure you can come up with something. Hi Jon, I'm using those 5 legged spider supports like that. I can grab a leg and turn them round easily. Having said that, a turntable doesn't solve the problem of runs or sagging because gravity is always working downwards. That doesn't matter for flat plates of course. Holding things on a horizontal spindle is a far better solution, in my opinion, for items that are 3 dimensional. It doesn't matter what orientation the surfaces are in, you're changing the direction that gravity acts upon them.
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Post by Roger on Jul 17, 2020 11:00:02 GMT
Hi Roger. With the number plates, you can paint all over and then clean up the numbers and surround by rubbing on a new sheet or wet & dry, supported on the surface table. If you get the paint off with, say 240, then 800, wet n' dry, you can then polish the numbers and surround by rubbing against 2500 grade wet n' dry. You can hold the number plate, to do this, by sticking it to a larger block of metal, with blue tac. You could also solder it to a block with one of the very low temp solders that melt at around 70 or 80C Bob Hi Bob, That's definitely the way forward. Trying to mask the numbers is a thankless task and unnecessary if you do it the way you suggest. I can always 3D print a holder to clip them into for polishing. I've already got a 3D model that's almost what I'll need, so I could modify that in seconds.
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Post by delaplume on Jul 17, 2020 12:25:42 GMT
My turntable is an old rotating cake stand found at a local car boot sale some years ago......I've yet to find some rotating cakes to go on it though !! This first photo is taken within the front porch and during the Summer it's really hot in there.. with very little drafts at all !! ...... For Winter I use the covered way between the house and garage...This has double glazed doors at either end.... Not shown are the three large plastic tubs that are turned on their side and feature several strands of thin wire hanging down.......I do all those small and fiddley items in here....After spraying I wait for a min or two then place a sheet of wood accross the front.... this prevents any dust, etc from getting in.. The second photo and this is the old airing cupboard minus its' hot water tank, removed when a new combi system was recently fitted....A couple of coats of gloss brilliant white all around should brighten it up and the introduction of high-up horizontal bars will allow anything to be hung up overnight... Ok, a bit ruff 'n ready but I can get some reasonable painting done........
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Post by simplyloco on Jul 17, 2020 14:07:50 GMT
You know something Roger, mine might be bigger than yours...
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Post by Roger on Jul 17, 2020 15:05:48 GMT
You know something Roger, mine might be bigger than yours... Hi John, They certainly look taller. Mine are equal dimensions on all sides.
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Post by simplyloco on Jul 17, 2020 16:30:52 GMT
You know something Roger, mine might be bigger than yours... Hi John,They certainly look taller. Mine are equal dimensions on all sides. I used the 'loft' command to make the pyramids. Did you, or is there another way? John
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Post by Roger on Jul 17, 2020 17:41:52 GMT
They certainly look taller. Mine are equal dimensions on all sides. I used the 'loft' command to make the pyramids. Did you, or is there another way? John I just drew a triangular base and extruded it with an appropriate angle and depth to generate the basic shape. I then used the Shell command on the base to hollow it out.
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,724
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Post by mbrown on Jul 17, 2020 19:37:35 GMT
Does 1501 have polished brass number plates? I ask because most freight classes and tank engines on the GWR had cast iron plates with the edge and numbers painted pale yellow. I thought only passenger classes had brass number plates - although as the 15XXs were used for ECS into Paddington, maybe they were classed as passenger engines.... Just interested to know more!
Malcolm
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