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Post by Roger on Mar 20, 2022 21:04:32 GMT
Would there be any advantage in having the other electrode poking into the side of the drum, into the interior? Just thinking that a) the flow of electrons taking the shortest path between positive and negative would then meet your parts and/or b) the drum becoming charged, the repulsions will favour the outside, rather than the inside, so your parts are sitting in protected neutral isolation in the middle. Wilf Hi Wilf, That's how I've done it already. There's a slot in the end of the fixed part where the Titanium contact strip connects to. It goes right through, almost touching the end where the gear is. I've arranged it vertically in case a part ends up falling onto it, so that it falls off.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,912
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Post by JonL on Mar 20, 2022 21:05:17 GMT
Blast from the past with that Farnell power supply; we used them all through my apprenticeship and on the benches at Boscombe Down....
Sorry, carry on as you were....
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Post by Roger on Mar 20, 2022 21:52:22 GMT
I'm going to have to strip this down, clean off the Nickel Electrode which is now Black and replace the Brass strip. I've been googling this without much success, but did find this company who make miniature Barrel Plating systems. However, I can't see how they're getting the current flowing. These, and large ones, all seem to use non-conductive barrels, which does make sense if you don't want to plate the barrel. However, I can't see the contact arrangement. It would appear that they're relying on parts touching others to form a circuit, but I can't see where the connection point is. Any ideas?
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peteh
Statesman
Still making mistakes!
Posts: 760
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Post by peteh on Mar 21, 2022 2:33:58 GMT
Maybe a solid conductive axle for the drum and then the second electrode just to the tank. They talked of adding metal balls to both improve conductivity and agitation. Certainly not clear from their photos
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Post by Roger on Mar 21, 2022 7:47:38 GMT
Maybe a solid conductive axle for the drum and then the second electrode just to the tank. They talked of adding metal balls to both improve conductivity and agitation. Certainly not clear from their photos So are you thinking that the current flows between two electrodes while the parts only connect to each other? I wonder if that would work? I can certainly see why you would want to keep the Cathode small so that it doesn't get plated. However, for my purposes the efficiency and waste doesn't matter. One illustration suggests that only parts near the surface of a full drum get plated, so you don't want too many.
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Post by jon38r80 on Mar 21, 2022 15:02:21 GMT
The Nickel plating institute has a hand book which describes the construction of tumbling drums and how the contact with the parts to be played here. Might help though it’s not specific nickelinstitute.org/media/2323/nph_141015.pdf
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Post by Roger on Mar 21, 2022 17:22:37 GMT
The Nickel plating institute has a hand book which describes the construction of tumbling drums and how the contact with the parts to be played here. Might help though it’s not specific nickelinstitute.org/media/2323/nph_141015.pdfThanks for that Jon, it's a big help. Page 42 describes some of the ways the Cathode is connected. One is 'flexible danglers', and the other is studs at the end of the barrel, which they say is less common. The arrangement uses a non-conducting barrel with holes to allow the charge to flow, and the Anodes are on the outside. So it looks like my setup might work, albeit plating the drum as much as the parts. I'm not worried about that as long as it works. Obviously the method is intented for when the barrel has enough items to provide continuity from one part to another. You can bulk that out with other parts if there's not enough though, and it's probably more economical than the way I'm doing it. Anyway, it's useful information that i couldn't find, so thanks for that.
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Post by Roger on Mar 27, 2022 21:53:50 GMT
Briefly returning to the issue of lining the Locomotive...
I know that the line colours are Grey, Cream and Red.
Would I be right in thinking that the Phoenix Paints colours would be as follows from the post 1948 colours page...
Lining Grey Lining Cream Lining Red
I presume this is right since the GA is dated 1948, and there are no lining colours on the GWR page.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 27, 2022 22:02:24 GMT
Hi Roger.
Yes. Those are the correct colours, and was matched to a sample panel from the B.R. Surface Coatings Lab, in Derby.
Bob.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Mar 27, 2022 23:10:52 GMT
Oh gosh!
A lined out 15XX!
Not many of those. All Old Oak Common Depot just outside Paddington?
LNWR livery on a GWR loco!
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Post by delaplume on Mar 28, 2022 2:17:42 GMT
Oh gosh! A lined out 15XX! Not many of those. All Old Oak Common Depot just outside Paddington? LNWR livery on a GWR loco! Hello Julian...... take heart old friend, I think Roger is painting his as per 1501 at the SVR..... which as far as I'm aware was done by its' present owners ...... I seem to remember that 3 were actually lined out because they were regularly shunting in and around Paddington but 1501 wasn't one of these ??
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Post by delaplume on Mar 28, 2022 2:28:02 GMT
Briefly returning to the issue of lining the Locomotive... I know that the line colours are Grey, Cream and Red. Would I be right in thinking that the Phoenix Paints colours would be as follows from the post 1948 colours page... Lining Grey Lining Cream Lining Red I presume this is right since the GA is dated 1948, and there are no lining colours on the GWR page. Hi Roger.... don't forget that although designed by Hawksworth in 1948 these are technically British Railway locomotives as they were actually built post-1948 ie after nationalisation......... I suspect we've had this debate on here before but although 3 locos of the 15xx class were fully lined out I don't think that 1501 ever was....... Also, I suspect the livery carried by 1501 at the SVR was chosen by it's current owners..........
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Post by Roger on Mar 28, 2022 6:11:02 GMT
Thanks to all, I'll get those ordered. I have no idea how the lining on 1501 came about, but it's on there now, and that's what I'm modelling. I quite like the lining, it breaks up what would otherwise be quite a plain Locomotive with huge swathes of black paint.
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Post by ettingtonliam on Mar 28, 2022 8:13:40 GMT
I've got a photo of 1504 in what looks like new condition, and its certainly lined out. A black and white photo so its difficult to tell what the colours are but it certainly looks smart!.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 28, 2022 10:33:34 GMT
Oh gosh! A lined out 15XX! Not many of those. All Old Oak Common Depot just outside Paddington? LNWR livery on a GWR loco! Hi Julian. B.R. adopted the LNWR livery as the Standard Mixed Traffic Livery. It would certainly be unusual for a small loco, like 1501, to be lined out as Mixed Traffic. It would certainly have been rare to find a GWR loco in Mixed Traffic livery, though I did find a photo of Rolleston Hall in the livery. I think the lining, on 1501, is a 'preservation' addition, but Roger is building 'As is', so is quite right to consider the lining, in the same way as Evening Star, in service, never had steam heating for carriages, but I am including it on my loco because it is currently fitted to Evening Star. Bob.
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Post by chris vine on Mar 28, 2022 12:51:54 GMT
Hi Roger,
Don't worry if your lining out is not exactly as the GWR did it. Your locomotive is much better made than any of theirs!!!!
Chris. PS, that isn't a dig at the GWR. Roger's loco is better made than any steam locomotive in the days of steam!!
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Post by andyhigham on Mar 28, 2022 13:46:35 GMT
Ask any professional spray painter, they will tell you black is 10 x more difficult than any other colour
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Gary L
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,208
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Post by Gary L on Mar 28, 2022 23:02:14 GMT
Oh gosh! A lined out 15XX! Not many of those. All Old Oak Common Depot just outside Paddington? LNWR livery on a GWR loco! Hi Julian. B.R. adopted the LNWR livery as the Standard Mixed Traffic Livery. It would certainly be unusual for a small loco, like 1501, to be lined out as Mixed Traffic. It would certainly have been rare to find a GWR loco in Mixed Traffic livery, though I did find a photo of Rolleston Hall in the livery. I think the lining, on 1501, is a 'preservation' addition, but Roger is building 'As is', so is quite right to consider the lining, in the same way as Evening Star, in service, never had steam heating for carriages, but I am including it on my loco because it is currently fitted to Evening Star. Bob. I’ve always rather disliked the BR MT livery, especially on Swindon locos which it did not suit at all, IMHO. So given a choice, plain black it was always going to be for me. The GWR did paint locos plain black in WW2, so not so much an unnatural child of a ‘foreign’ company. Also, badly done lining can spoil a model, whereas MT lining, even superbly done, is still -um- LNWR…. so no contest! But Roger is modelling 1501 in preservation, and currently that means lined out. (Though he does have the option of chickening out and painting it as for 1501 prior to the last overhaul ) But I think that ship has already sailed… Gary Gary
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Post by delaplume on Mar 29, 2022 1:02:44 GMT
Hi Gary, Gary ( ? ) are you in stereo??---LoL !! ----
Yes,I agree, Roger is modelling 1501 "as is" circa 2022 so the livery it's carrying is the one to choose......I'm just wondering how he's going to adapt his "machined on the end of a stick" method to suit ???
In any event I'm looking forwards to our proposed meet-up when we can all join with him in celebration of an incredible journey ....
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Post by Roger on Apr 10, 2022 20:38:07 GMT
I'm bogged down with commercial work and other family activities at the moment, but I've had time to move the Whistle Valve a little further on. I'd already machined the internal cavities of the 'Y' piece, mounted them on a Steel stalk and Silver Soldered it all together with High Temperature Silver solder. This is how the assembly looks as a 3d model. You can see that the threaded part is shown in Green, and those are Silver Soldered onto the 'Y' piece. Whistle valve assembly by Timothy Froud, on Flickr So here's the 'Y' piece being set level and centrally in the 4th Axis. 20220410_152040 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr 20220410_152053 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr The outside is being roughed out with a 2mm cutter, which happens to be pretty blunt. The 'Y' piece is pretty thin, so it's being made from Phosphor Bronze. 20220410_174256 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr That's flipped over 180 degrees and repeated. 20220410_200047 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr This first side just completed the finishing pass, so here's that too. I'm using a 1mm Carbide End Mill for this rather than a PCB cutter or Ball nosed one. That's because it's possible to get a good enough profile and finish with that, and I can be a bit more aggressive with the cuts. PCB cutters are great, but they're long and fragile. I've just turned it over and started it off again, so hopefully that will run satisfactorily overnight. 20220410_223953 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr
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