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Post by Roger on Feb 15, 2023 21:10:39 GMT
I need to make the infill pieces for the top, front and back of the Pannier Tanks before I can paint them. It's so easy to scratch the paint, so Cereal boxes and masking tape has been used to help prevent that. PXL_20230215_205731318 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr It's hard enough lining up the front bolts, but even harder to screw the nuts onto the top of them. I made a crude pointy tool from Welding Wire to help with the line up, but I want to make this much easier to assemble and dismantle. If it's a nightmare to get apart, it's going to be annoying. PXL_20230215_205745723 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr So I've decided to drill the fixing holes out and fit some custom clinch nuts that will be fitted to all of the brackets. That's a lot, because there are four for the 'I' beam, and a further eight on each side for the front and rear bridges that go between the tanks. It's a lot of work, but I'd rather put the effort in now than be frustrated by how hard it all is to work on. M1.6 clinch nut by Timothy Froud, on Flickr
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Post by 92220 on Feb 17, 2023 11:24:09 GMT
Hi Roger.
I experimented with lenses over my Varifocals, having seen the clock maker use an extra pair of glasses over his usual ones. I think he must have single focus specs for normal use. The main drawback is that if you use a single focus lens with Varifocal specs, the view is only in focus at one point on the lens. If you look through a different part of the Varifocal you have to move the extra lens closer or further away to get it back into focus. It's the Varifocals that screw things up. It's just what the name implies....variable focus. I found that the only way to improve the view, was to use a pair of standard single focus specs with the extra lens, but that is not recommended if your eyes are used to the Varifocals. Using the single focus specs can mess up your vision through the Varifocals and you have to re-train your brain to use them, all over again. If someone uses single focus specs, like for distance and for close-up, then an extra lens can work. Buying a pair of cheap reading specs will work with an additional lens but it will still need experimenting to get the second lens in the right place for the view to be in focus.I found it too much of a fiddle, and it took me a little while for my eyesight to get back to normal with my Varifocals after playing around with the single focus specs, so now I use a large illuminated magnifier, on an adjustable stand.
Bob.
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Post by brucevoelkerding on Feb 17, 2023 13:20:14 GMT
Roger - this doesn't help you with your current Bolt access issue, but a Tip I read ages ago in Model Engineer dealt with threading on Nuts in tight quarters. The Tip was to thread the end of a Rod a few turns, bend the Rod as required to fit, thread on the Nut, offer the end of the Rod to the male thread, and then run the Nut off the Rod onto the male thread using a Fingertip or a Scriber.
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Post by Roger on Feb 17, 2023 21:53:26 GMT
Hi Roger. I experimented with lenses over my Varifocals, having seen the clock maker use an extra pair of glasses over his usual ones. I think he must have single focus specs for normal use. The main drawback is that if you use a single focus lens with Varifocal specs, the view is only in focus at one point on the lens. If you look through a different part of the Varifocal you have to move the extra lens closer or further away to get it back into focus. It's the Varifocals that screw things up. It's just what the name implies....variable focus. I found that the only way to improve the view, was to use a pair of standard single focus specs with the extra lens, but that is not recommended if your eyes are used to the Varifocals. Using the single focus specs can mess up your vision through the Varifocals and you have to re-train your brain to use them, all over again. If someone uses single focus specs, like for distance and for close-up, then an extra lens can work. Buying a pair of cheap reading specs will work with an additional lens but it will still need experimenting to get the second lens in the right place for the view to be in focus.I found it too much of a fiddle, and it took me a little while for my eyesight to get back to normal with my Varifocals after playing around with the single focus specs, so now I use a large illuminated magnifier, on an adjustable stand. Bob. Hi Bob, Yes, you're right, the Varifocals with a fixed additional lens does only focus at one point. However, I don't find that too much of a problem. It does take a bit of getting used to, but I do find it helpful on some jobs.
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Post by Roger on Feb 17, 2023 21:54:20 GMT
Roger - this doesn't help you with your current Bolt access issue, but a Tip I read ages ago in Model Engineer dealt with threading on Nuts in tight quarters. The Tip was to thread the end of a Rod a few turns, bend the Rod as required to fit, thread on the Nut, offer the end of the Rod to the male thread, and then run the Nut off the Rod onto the male thread using a Fingertip or a Scriber. I really like this idea, I'm sure I'll make use of that one day. Some of the nuts are really tricky to get on.
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Post by Roger on Feb 17, 2023 21:57:10 GMT
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Post by Roger on Feb 18, 2023 21:30:11 GMT
Here's the last of the batch of the 24 M1.6 clinch nuts, this time on the bridges. I'm really pleased with these, they are firmly in place, so it's going to make life a lot easier. PXL_20230218_152751085 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr
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Post by andyhigham on Feb 18, 2023 21:43:02 GMT
On the subject of seeing small things, it makes me smile watching the craftsmen and women on "repair shop" wearing 2 or 3 pairs of glasses.
I have just bought a pair of cheap 1.5 reading glasses instead of 2.5 for using with the laptop, my lap is too far away for the 2.5s
I have a "cheater lens" in my welding mask, I wear my glasses too so I can get close up
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Post by Roger on Feb 19, 2023 22:04:27 GMT
Fitting the top bridge pieces is now dead easy with the captive nuts, the ones on the 'I' Beam less so. I may still make another tool to make that easier. PXL_20230219_215137187 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr The reason the Tanks are going back on unpainted is because I need to make the pieces that fill the gaps between the Pannier Tanks and the Boiler Cladding. You can see a pretty big gap at the front... PXL_20230219_215148520 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr ... which will be filled by a curved angle piece. However, I want to make sure it fits and also puts the bolt holes where they are in the Brass front plate and not too near the edge. To that end I thought it would be easiest to just 3D print the first one to see if it's close. PXL_20230219_203005924 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr I need to clear out the bolt holes on the print and mark through with a pencil, but it looks close. PXL_20230219_215119523 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr
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Post by Roger on Feb 21, 2023 22:00:19 GMT
The Top Feed pipes had to be bent a little to get the nuts to engage with the fittings. PXL_20230221_212102402 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr The Safety Valve Bonnet still goes fully home though. PXL_20230221_123706877 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr I was going to start sorting out the plumbing for the Injectors, but I don't have any 5mm Copper Pipe left, so that's on order now. I've got enough 4mm for the Steam feed, so I'll probably do that next.
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,725
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Post by mbrown on Feb 21, 2023 22:12:48 GMT
Hi Roger,
Superlative work as ever.
May I ask where you get metric copper tube? The suppliers I am aware of only do imperial as far as I can see, unless one buys in vast quantities.
Metric would be very helpful on 99 3462.
Best wishes
Malcolm
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Post by Cro on Feb 22, 2023 7:58:15 GMT
I love seeing this come together, all the little flourishes of brilliance we have seen over the years, as you call them mini projects, coming together and looking fantastic!
Keep it up Roger, Look forward to taking out 92012 and 1501 in the near future!
Adam
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Post by Roger on Feb 22, 2023 12:43:12 GMT
I've somehow only got 5 of the 6 pipe flanges that I need for the Injectors, so here's the missing inlet water flange being made. I used some for the Test Boiler setup, but I thought I'd made enough for that too. I'm using the High Speed Spindle for this because it's small, so this is the arm that holds the clock to get it central. PXL_20230221_192538417 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr A 2.5mm Carbide End Mill was used to cut the outside profile with cutout and the ID. PXL_20230222_105426826 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr PXL_20230222_114058119 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr After parting off, that was set in a Collet and the recess was bored for the pipe location. It's only 0.5mm deep because it would break into the 'O' ring groove otherwise. PXL_20230222_122446862 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr Here are all of those. There are also flanges for the overflow which take pipes to the bracket behind the rear steps. PXL_20230222_123246512 by Timothy Froud, on Flickr
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Post by Roger on Feb 22, 2023 12:45:25 GMT
Hi Roger, Superlative work as ever. May I ask where you get metric copper tube? The suppliers I am aware of only do imperial as far as I can see, unless one buys in vast quantities. Metric would be very helpful on 99 3462. Best wishes Malcolm Thanks Malcolm. I get the pipe from Macclesfield Models, they do it in 300mm and 1M lengths. I'm sure you can get it from German suppliers too, they only sell Metric sizes of anything.
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Post by Roger on Feb 22, 2023 12:48:34 GMT
I love seeing this come together, all the little flourishes of brilliance we have seen over the years, as you call them mini projects, coming together and looking fantastic! Keep it up Roger, Look forward to taking out 92012 and 1501 in the near future! Adam Thanks Adam, I'm starting to feel the need to get it finished. Until recently, the end seemed so far away that I didn't allow myself to even think about it. There are still quite a few mini projects to complete, but I'm trying to get most of it together now.
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jem
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,067
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Post by jem on Feb 22, 2023 17:22:31 GMT
Old fridges, freezers etc have a good supply of copper pipe, over the years I have collected all sorts of sizes.
Jem
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Post by Roger on Feb 27, 2023 22:03:46 GMT
The Dummy Lubricator has a top and bottom casting bolted to the main body. These hold the sight glasses between them. This is the bottom 'casting' being machined from Leaded Bronze which will age better than Brass which is too Yellow. I'm using the ER16 collet to hold this, it's ideal for rigidly holding stock away from the 4th axis 4-jaw chuck. PXL_20230222_162444158 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The piece is flipped over and the bottom roughed out before any finishing operations. PXL_20230222_220046201 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr A 2mm Ball Nosed cutter was used to pre-finish the part... PXL_20230223_095209536 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr ... followed by a 1mm Ball Nose to create the small radii required for the Cast look. PXL_20230223_162746264 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230223_203423469 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The part is pretty flexible, but rather than try to support the end, I decided to just take my time with lots of very light cuts. The end needed supporting for the drilling process though. Here I'm using a 2x4x6 block, a parallel and feeler gauge to support the end. PXL_20230224_093633698 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The bosses have female threads on the full size unit, but I'm using M1.6 here and the Hex nut will screw onto it. The visual effect will be similar. It's all pretty small, so I don't think it will notice. PXL_20230224_101108108 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The rear flange is another piece of Leaded Bronze. PXL_20230224_122440317 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The top casting was made the same way. PXL_20230225_133656974 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230225_144635822 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230225_160725818 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230225_213559052 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230226_093813158 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230226_191752700 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr It wasn't possible to machine the RH end, so that had to be done on a fixture. PXL_20230227_213554335 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The bottom casting still needs a further hole in the front for a handle and the top is missing two bosses that were so close to the others that it was impossible to get even a 0.5mm cutter in there. Those will be Silver Soldered on later. PXL_20230227_214530348 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr It's not quite right, but it's good enough. PXL_20230227_214556767 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr
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Post by Roger on Feb 28, 2023 20:17:28 GMT
This is the Valve end of the 4mm Steam pipe for the RH Injector. PXL_20230223_201525425 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230223_201558754 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr It's not the neatest of jobs, I've had to make a lot of alterations to get it to fit and it shows. I'll probably make it again now I've got the right shape. The pipe has to miss the bottom of the dummy Hydrostatic Lubricator and the Firehole Doors. PXL_20230223_203223466 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230223_211633794 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The water from the Injector and the Axle Pump share the RH top feed, and it also has to go up through the Pannier Tank. The full size setup is a flanged coupling below the tank, but I couldn't do that because the flange wouldn't fit through the tank. Instead, I've made a screwed coupling that's hidden up inside the tank. That uses an 'O' ring for the seal and a special spanner to turn the threaded part. The pipe bend needs to be a fairly tight radius to make it easier to use the special spanner. I didn't have a 5mm former small enough, so that's what's being made here. PXL_20230226_193555399 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr That looked fine while I was doing it... PXL_20230226_194528926 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr ... but turned out to be a mess. PXL_20230226_194632517 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The problem is that the pipe wasn't being held closely between the formers like this while it was being bent. PXL_20230226_194839262 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr To overcome that problem, I made a new large former from Delrin and cut it almost in half so that it could butt right up against the clamping shoe. PXL_20230226_202324181 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230226_202423136 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr That worked really well. PXL_20230226_202521628 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr I'd already made the very small Tee piece which was made in two parts, held together with High Temperature Silver Solder so I could use the usual stuff to attach the pipes. PXL_20230226_204428643 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The Injector is closer to the frame than where the pipe passes the Pannier Tank support bracket, and there isn't much room to fit the joggle. I made a curved clamping piece... PXL_20230227_150902512 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr ... which could be used on both parts of the joggle. The Toolmaker's clamp kept the formers in close contact with the pipe to stop it deforming. PXL_20230227_151112353 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230227_151158456 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr It's not a huge offset, but that's how it is on the full size locomotive, so that's how it is here. PXL_20230227_151235083 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr This is the connector that's hidden inside the Pannier Tank tube. The 'O' ring seals on the OD of the pipe and the ID of the female part that isn't shown here. The nut is only done finger tight so that it presses on the collar, preventing the pipe from being pushed out of the connector. It seals even if it's loose. PXL_20230227_180952214 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr As usual, I prefer to form rings of Silver Solder, protect the areas I want to be kept free of it with Tippex, and just heat the fluxed joint to finish the job. PXL_20230227_212645913 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The Injector Outlet Flange only has a very shallow register for the pipe, so the tiles are needed to stop it from falling off. I've put two rings of Silver Solder on this to make a robust fillet. PXL_20230228_185652410 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20230228_190122441 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr That ended up like this. I'll have to remove the Pannier Tank to fit this because the Tee piece gets in the way. The Pannier Tank is fitted with the pipes to the Top Feed removed of course, so this just goes up inside the tube when the tank goes on. PXL_20230228_193109848 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The water feed pipe is going to be fiddly because it comes from the valve on the LH Pannier Tank, dives under the Boiler in front of the Throat Plate, before looping back to the rear of the Injector, finally turning 180 degrees to get to the flange. The pipe can't be fitted or removed with the Boiler in place because it wraps around the Firebox and also goes above the Blowdown Valves.
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Post by Roger on Feb 28, 2023 20:27:32 GMT
The toothed belt I'd used on the Turning Frame to move the jacking screws finally gave up and came apart at the joint I'd made. The belt itself was plenty strong enough, but it's not really possible to make a very strong joint, even though I'd used wires and a scarf joint that spanned around ten teeth. Rather than mess about trying to fix that, I bit the bullet and bought some 6mm chain and a couple of 30 tooth sprockets from eBay. Fortunately 2 Meters of chain was just a few links longer than I needed, and conveniently it was just a nice tension when fitted. This is much more manly now the Locomotive is so heavy. PXL_20230224_213836221 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr
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Post by steamer5 on Mar 1, 2023 2:00:12 GMT
Hi Roger, How long did it take to sort out making sure the pipe flange bolt hole were in the right place to match up with the injector outlet flange? I would spend way too long trying to sort it!
Cheers Kerrin
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