Help with 'Speedy' valve gear and other issues...

[Roger]

This is the first full assembly of the painted cylinder cladding and Smokebox. It's a bit grubby, but I guess that's authentic.


PXL_20230905_124052594 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I still have to make the dummy Copper Pipe from the Oiler, and finish the Lamps.

PXL_20230905_190814311 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I still need to make the Steam Pipes that runs along the top of the Pannier Tanks and goes into the hole above the Oiler Cover. There are also some Buffer Details to finish.

PXL_20230905_190220854 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Hopefully it won't be too long before the Lining is done on the Pannier Tanks, and then they can go on. Once that's done, pretty much all the middle and front end is complete. I need to finish the Whistle Servo Valve development and get all of the details under the Cab Floor finished.

I don't know if I'll be taking the Cab & Bunker to the Midlands Show, because it might be damp and end up going rusty. I won't be far enough down the road to paint it by then. Hopefully the Pannier Tanks will be on though.

[dhamblin]

Not having the cab and bunker fitted is no bad thing Roger - means visitors can admire all the fine backhead fittings you've produced.

Hope this latest version of the lining mask works too!

Regards,

Dan

[Roger]

The new low Tack Transfer Tape from Amazon arrived today which is from Vinyl Frog. That proved to be much better, and it's certainly ideal for repeatedly pulling up the tape and realigning it to get it spot on.

This is how it looks when applied to the mask, ready for transferring...

PXL_20230906_150349878 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

... and this is the tape with the mask attached.

PXL_20230906_150418462 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

It's easy to see the registration through the tape. It's not perfect, but I doubt if I can get it any better on a big piece so I've gone with it as shown.

PXL_20230906_150628122 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Although it was still tricky to get it to let go of the mask, doubling it tightly back on itself did work. You certainly have to take your time though.

PXL_20230906_151129630 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I left it for a couple of hours and this was the result.

PXL_20230906_195931590 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

It's not perfect, but I can certainly live with that if I can achieve the same thing on the Locomotive. It might be possible to tidy up the blemish, I might have a go and see what happens.

PXL_20230906_195941668 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr


Anyway, I think I'm at the point where I can go ahead and give the real thing a go. I'll add a lot more target roundels though, I think they need to be all around the edge.

[Roger]

Just for completeness, I thought I would complete add the inner line because it does rely on the mask sticking onto the backing close to a previously painted line. The issue is that the thickness of the paint is trying to pull the mask away from the surface.

Anyway, it doesn't appear to have caused a problem, so I'm definitely up for giving this a go for real.

PXL_20230907_103357197 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

[jon38r80]

How do press the edges of the mask down to try and stop the paint bleeding under?, Ive not used low tack as a mask like you are but the lining masking for pinstriping cars always benefited from going over with the back of a spoon at the edges.
The lining and masking you arte attempting is interesting to see. Hope it all works on the 'real' thing

[Roger]

Sept 8, 2023 18:11:49 GMT jon38r80 said:

How do press the edges of the mask down to try and stop the paint bleeding under?, Ive not used low tack as a mask like you are but the lining masking for pinstriping cars always benefited from going over with the back of a spoon at the edges.
The lining and masking you arte attempting is interesting to see. Hope it all works on the 'real' thing

I haven't found it necessary to do much to the edges to make them stay down. The Vinyl is low tack but very flexible. As long as you get the air bubbles out, it seems to stop any bleeding. I watched a YouTube video where a guy was using it on a Motorcycle Tank, and was very impressed. That's why I picked that one.
You can see through the mask, so it's really easy to spot any air bubbles and you can line it up and see what's under it. It's a bit stretchy though, so you really need to make sure it doesn't come away from the Transfer Tape or the job. It needs to be firmly stuck to something at all times.
It will be interesting to see how it works on larger surfaces though, lining up the first line might be tricky. I've made some 3D printed guides to help with that.

[Roger]

Armed with the information gained from the test pieces, here are the three masks for the Pannier Tanks.

This is the first one, which is for the thick outer Grey line. The alignment roundels are left in place like on the test piece. They are 9.8mm diameter. The green outer line is the extent of the border which should line up with the LH edge of the tank.

Grey mask by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

This is the Cream mask which has a small overlap of 0.13mm to account for the width lost when cutting and any slight misalignment.

The roundels are 10mm holes that go over the outside of the 9.8mm roundels left from the Grey mask.

Cream mask by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

And finally, this is the Red mask with the same arrangement of roundels for the alignment as the Cream mask.


Red mask by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I just need to clear the machine from a commercial job I'm finishing, and get these cut out.

[Roger]

The jars supplied with the Badger Airbrush are fine for spraying larger parts, but if you're just spraying a few lines they're miles too big. The standard top was also fitted with a supply tube which doesn't reach anywhere near to the bottom of the jar.

Anyway, the bottom line is that it's going to be difficult to do several spray operations with the tiny amount of paint you get in those little Enamel paint tins.

My solution is to make a 3D printed miniature 'jar' that takes a small amount of paint and is tall compared to its diameter so that the tube can pick up paint from the bottom even when there isn't much left. The chamfer on the bottom inside leaves 6mm so the 5mm tube can't be blocked.

I've already ordered the 5mm PTFE tube because I wanted to print a new gland for the spare jars I've bought, and wanted the tube to reach closer to the bottom. I'll probably cut some notches around the tube entry so it can be pushed right down to the bottom of the jar without fear of it becoming closed off.


Miniature jar assembly by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

The paint is likely to be difficult to clean off, so I may just end up throwing it away and printing another. The pair take 40 minutes to print.

[92220]

Hi Roger.

What a handy idea!! If the paint you are using is enamel, like Phoenix Precision, cellulose thinners will wash it out completely. Just be sure that the plastic 'bottle' is resistant.

Bob.

[Roger]

The last thing to finish on the Smokebox is this Elbow and Steam pipe.

20180110_134246 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I've got some 3mm rod but the bend is pretty tight and that's not going to go well if done in the vice.

So here's my 2mm diameter forming tool being used to make a Brass former...

PXL_20230909_112819134 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

... to hold the bar while it's being bent...

PXL_20230909_113113382 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

... like this.

PXL_20230909_113208101 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr



PXL_20230909_113633439 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I also need a little collar which I'll make from a scrap of Steel rod using the same Form tool.

PXL_20230909_151513630 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr



PXL_20230909_152045344 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr



PXL_20230909_152141318 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I quickly 3D printed a little Fixture to hold the Elbow in the Lathe for cutting the thread with an M3 die.

PXL_20230909_154430109 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Small as it is, the collar looks too big, so I'll make another one of those.

PXL_20230909_161245833 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

[doubletop]

Sept 8, 2023 21:02:21 GMT Roger said:

Armed with the information gained from the test pieces, here are the three masks for the Pannier Tanks.

This is the first one, which is for the thick outer Grey line. The alignment roundels are left in place like on the test piece. They are 9.8mm diameter. The green outer line is the extent of the border which should line up with the LH edge of the tank.

Grey mask by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

This is the Cream mask which has a small overlap of 0.13mm to account for the width lost when cutting and any slight misalignment.

The roundels are 10mm holes that go over the outside of the 9.8mm roundels left from the Grey mask.

Cream mask by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

And finally, this is the Red mask with the same arrangement of roundels for the alignment as the Cream mask.


Red mask by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I just need to clear the machine from a commercial job I'm finishing, and get these cut out.

Roger

It certainly looks a lot better than you probably would have achieved with the pens. One question I do have, is why three masks? Can't you do the two cream and grey lines with the same mask and just do a second mask for the other. Even as the two lines to go down first are different colours can't you just mask the mask? do one colour, remove the secondary masking, secondary mask the first line and spray the second colour. The second mask then just does the thin red line?

Pete

[Roger]

However you do it, I think you need three masks to define both edges of each line.
I agree, this is going to give a much better result than with a pen.

[Roger]

The PTFE pipe arrived today, but it was too big. I bought 5mm because that seemed about the right size as well as I could measure it, but I should have realised that being an American product it was going to be an Imperial size. Anyway, I've ordered some 3/16" pipe now which ought to be right.

However, in the meantime, I heated up the 4mm tube I bought for the 3D printer, and pushed a 3mm rod up the middle to spread the end out. That now fits the Air Brush, and I printed a new top with a 4.15mm hole for the smaller pipe. That seems to have worked out ok.

PXL_20230912_163837225 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

However, I wasn't having the same success with transferring the first of the Spray Masks. I tried adding some removable masking tape guides on the ends, but getting them exactly in the right place was too difficult using the guide pieces I'd 3D printed.

Worse than that, trying to lay the huge mask down in the right place and then adjusting it was impossible because it kept leaving the mask behind when I pulled up the Transfer Tape.

PXL_20230912_192642404 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

It's clear that I need a better way to mark the centre of the mask, and I also need to be able to slide it into position. I did wonder if this would be necessary, but I thought I'd give this a try first. You live and learn.

One YouTube video suggested using soap dissolved in warm water and applied with a kitchen spray bottle was one way to do it, so here's some soap being prepared for that method. I'll try it on a smaller piece first to see how that goes.

One reason I didn't want to add anything to the surface was because it's going to leave a film that I'll have to remove before I can spray the enamel. However, it ought to be possible to remove that with a sponge. We'll see. Obviously most Vinyl application leaves the Vinyl in place, which is the opposite to what I'm doing.


PXL_20230912_194510841 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Anyway, here's an improved gauge that sits on the top surface of the Tank and ends at the centre line. If there was a nice sharp corner on the Tanks, it would be much easier. However, finding the precise distance from the top where there's a large radius is much more difficulte.


Untitled by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

So that's being printed out at the moment. I'll wait until I've tried the next mask before re-cutting the one I spoiled. I may have to modify the design.

[brucevoelkerding]

Roger - I assume that is Hand Soap shown in your Picture above. Many Hand Soaps have all Sorts of "moisturizing" Compounds in them. They may cause you Problems. I would try the simplest, purist DISH Soap instead. They leave a Plate "squeaky" clean.

[Roger]

Sept 13, 2023 12:25:53 GMT brucevoelkerding said:

Roger - I assume that is Hand Soap shown in your Picture above. Many Hand Soaps have all Sorts of "moisturizing" Compounds in them. They may cause you Problems. I would try the simplest, purist DISH Soap instead. They leave a Plate "squeaky" clean.

Thanks for that. I'm wondering if washing up liquid would be a good option too, or perhaps that's what you mean?

[brucevoelkerding]

yes, that's what I meant. we use the Term "Dish Soap" over here. That is what I used when I "floated" by Boat's Vinyl Lettering into place.

[Roger]

In the end, I decided against using soapy water for this first mask. I looked at a few more YouTube videos and chose one of the methods I saw there.
I may still need to do the Cream edge that way, it's a tall order to line that one up well enough.

This is the new gauge to find the centre of the Tank. I've added a masking tape pointer at that point on each end.

PXL_20230913_074940552 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr



PXL_20230913_075100135 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Then I cut a Vee notch on the mask while it's still on the transfer tape with it's backing on. The single line of masking tape on the back acts as a hinge so I can drop it down in the right position.

PXL_20230913_090720337 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

The mask was then flipped up and the backing pulled off along the length near the back.

PXL_20230913_090838258 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

A Credit Card was then carefully used to gradually stick it down while gently pulling off the backing.

PXL_20230913_091408125 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Finally, the Transfer Tape was very slowly pulled off. This took about ten minutes in total, making sure that none of the edges got pulled up and stretched.

PXL_20230913_092244015 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I added a couple of cuts to the Vinyl cutting profile and cut a new mask to replace the one I ruined.

PXL_20230913_140300777 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Everything other than the one line I want sprayed was then masked off and the edges lightly pressed down, making sure there were no small bubbles at the edge.

PXL_20230913_140304084 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I bought these tiny pipettes for measuring out the really small amounts of paint. However, you can't really measure it accurately, because so much paint gets left on the pipette compared to the thinners. I just judged the amount by how far up the tube it came.

PXL_20230913_165251090 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Anyway, that tiny amount of paint was plenty to go twice round the two tanks. I don't want a thick coat, just enough so it fully covers the Black base coat.

PXL_20230913_165443626 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr



PXL_20230913_165449374 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

Cleaning up with Gun Wash, it's clear that it dissolves PLA, so these are going to be a one time use item. I tried some PETG and ASA, and both of those dissolve in Gun Wash too. Maybe there is some filament that will resist it, but to be honest, it's no big deal to print as many as you need. They're so small that it doesn't take long, and it doesn't use much material.

[andyhigham]

The professionals use an airbrush that has a small cup on the top. They can add small amounts of paint
www.everythingairbrush.com/product-category/airbrushes/finespray-airbrushes/finespray-gravity-feed-airbrushes/

[Roger]

Sept 13, 2023 18:47:24 GMT andyhigham said:

The professionals use an airbrush that has a small cup on the top. They can add small amounts of paint
www.everythingairbrush.com/product-category/airbrushes/finespray-airbrushes/finespray-gravity-feed-airbrushes/

I can certainly see why they have those, the usual Air Brush holds way too much paint for a small job. I guess you could use the one I've got upside down and make a bowl for it.

[Roger]

The first masks came off fine, but I managed to get a couple of threads of paint dragged across the Black.

PXL_20230913_195947164 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

However, with some very careful use of Cotton Buds and Nail Wipes with some White Spirit, I've got most of it off.

PXL_20230913_200406891 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

I'll leave these to go off for a few days before attempting to add the next line.

PXL_20230913_200409957 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr



PXL_20230913_200414144 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr

The crispness of the lines is pretty good, so I'll be happy if it all comes out this well.

PXL_20230913_200419152 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr