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Post by garethp on Feb 24, 2007 16:43:40 GMT
Hi,
I'm a bit off a beginner and apologize if this has been covered previously (did a search and found nothing the same) I have a few queries;
1 I have a pretty worn ML7 which faces noticeably convex, the bed is definitely worn near the headstock - is it this alone that is causing the convex surface or is there possibly something else wrong which I can fix? This leads onto the 2nd question,
2 Whats a recognized way to adjust gib strips, I have the ones on the lathe and also have a warco economy miller, I know how to move the strips but i always seem to end up with them either too tight or too slack.
3 The mill has brass oilers with a spring loaded ball in the middle, I was going to replace them with the cup type as I cant seem to get oil in them - is there a oil gun which works or is a swap the best idea?
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Post by ron on Feb 24, 2007 17:28:41 GMT
Hi
In answer to question 3, I've a Warco lathe and mill with these oilers, they aren't exactly wonderful are they, what I usually do is push the spring loaded ball down with a large pin and dribble oil down the pin, it works but it's not very convenient.
I'll leave your other two questions to the Myford men,
Ron
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Post by chameleonrob on Feb 24, 2007 17:31:01 GMT
1 I have a pretty worn ML7 which faces noticeably convex, the bed is definitely worn near the headstock - is it this alone that is causing the convex surface or is there possibly something else wrong which I can fix? This leads onto the 2nd question, my first thought is have you locked the saddle in place so the cutting forces don't push the saddle away, and yes I still do this more often than I'd like to admit. rob |
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John Lee
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 375
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Post by John Lee on Feb 24, 2007 20:09:55 GMT
Hi, I'm a bit off a beginner and apologize if this has been covered previously (did a search and found nothing the same) I have a few queries; 1 I have a pretty worn ML7 which faces noticeably convex, the bed is definitely worn near the headstock - is it this alone that is causing the convex surface or is there possibly something else wrong which I can fix? This leads onto the 2nd question, 2 Whats a recognized way to adjust gib strips, I have the ones on the lathe and also have a warco economy miller, I know how to move the strips but i always seem to end up with them either too tight or too slack. 3 The mill has brass oilers with a spring loaded ball in the middle, I was going to replace them with the cup type as I cant seem to get oil in them - is there a oil gun which works or is a swap the best idea? Hohum, so thank you Ronny being one of the Myford men  Firstly where did you get your ML7?, because it was from the usual industrial environment then better start again. An unworn Myford is very accurate, if it is worn near the headstock it is an old machine that has had industrial abuse. They are superb machines; but buy from the one amateur owner who cares.... An ML7 in its basic form but not abused..... £600 or so.....up to a pristine Super Seven with power crossfeed.... about £2,300 If it is worn you will not really be able to adjust the gib strips to compensate |
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Myford Matt
Statesman
There are two ways to run a railway, the Great Western way, and the wrong way.
Posts: 621
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Post by Myford Matt on Feb 24, 2007 23:14:32 GMT
Have to agree with JL. There are many 30, 40, even 50-year old Myfords that have been well treated, which are still turning (groan) out high quality work with great accuracy. If yours is off then it may well have been abused or simply overworked.
Why not give Myford a call - they do listen to their customers and will try and help.
MM
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,399
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Post by SteveW on Feb 24, 2007 23:17:59 GMT
Gareth,
When I bought my S7 there was a pronounced groove in the front vertical face of the bed towards the head end. It was made by the saddle gib strip but at that depth and quite short I couldn't see how.
I could adjust things but it would for either near the head or the rest of the bed. In the end I paid 250 quid to Myford to have the whole lot, saddle included, reground.
In the event the returned bed had a couple of issues:
1. The back of the bed strips looked like they'd been very coarsely fly cut. They look more like bastard files.
2. Given the metal removed from the front/rear of the bed the saddle presented further towards me and the lead screw needed around twenty five thou of packing each end to line up again with the half-nut. I asked the folk at Myford if there was a shim kit for a bed regrind but they insisted it was never necessary and it was nothing they did so it must be my fault. I even pressed them on the point but they couldn't comprehend the problem. I put this down to them being a bunch of total wasters but otherwise harmless.
Anyway after thinking it through I managed to get it all back together and it's now good as gold, money well spent although I could have done with a bit more support from Myford.
On a related theme, I was chatting to one of the Myford reps on one of their MEX stands a while back and a punter wandered up and asked why when the back gear was selected the whole lot locked up. The rep didn't know.
Big mouth here had to explain.
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Post by Laurie_B on Feb 25, 2007 11:02:14 GMT
Why not give Myford a call - they do listen to their customers and will try and help. MM Definitely worth talking to them as Myfords do (I believe) offer a reconditioning service on used machines,they also have a number of second hand (sorry pre-owned!) lathes for sale too,which is how I came by my S7.When I went to have a look they had some reconditioned ML7's for sale that were nearly 50 years old!An option might be to trade in your lathe for a reconditioned one. I am so pleased they now sell an oil gun that actually puts oil where it is supposed to go,instead of the old oil gun which had a mind of its own!! |
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Post by chris vine on Feb 25, 2007 11:13:01 GMT
Hi Gareth,
I once had a myford with a slightly worn bed, using hand methods I managed to take out the wear and it was pretty good.
The saddle is guided from the front of the front shear and one other. It is helpful to find which one is used. On earlier machines the other face used was the back face of the front shear and on later machines it is the back face of the rear shear.
If of the earlier type you have a slight advantage in that the back face of the rear shear is totally unused and so will give you something to measure from.
You can use a micrometer across the width of each shear and you will have to find something which can accurately measure the gap between them, maybe a block and feeler gauges. You don't need a real size, just to see how far off parallel they are.
Leave the top of the bed ways alone, they will probably not be having too much effect on the final result unless really badly done for.
I found it best to take the saddle to bits, so that you are left with just the main part. IE you take off the apron at the front, take off the cross slide and take off the two strips which go underneat the shears to hold it down. (Be careful here, there are lots of shims which must either go back as before, or you may even do some adjustments.....
My method of trueing up the bed was simple and crude but it did quite a good job. I just used little strips of wet and dry paper on a block of metal and worked away on the front and rear faces of the bed shears until I had them right. The test was to put the saddle back on the bed and slide it up and down by hand, you can feel quite a lot this way. Mind to put a bit of oil on the bits you have been working on otherwise it may try to pick up a bit.
Gib Strips, They are quite easy to adjust, just be very careful, when they are close to fitting a minute movement will start to tighten things up a lot. I find that it is easiest to adjust the outer ones first and then just set the inner ones till you notice a tiny bit more drag. This may be wrong on the early type of 7's because the inner guide is only about half the length of the saddle, (you can see it but it may be machined by myford so that it does not touch or do anything) I think in this case you would adjust the two screws nearest the chuck first and then just bring up the two nearest the tailstock, but I am not too sure on this, it may be in the manual (RTFM!!!)
Inciidentally I have always found Myfords to be unbelievably helpful, and don't forget that they still provide spares for machines which they made 50 odd years ago.
Hope that helps, but obviously do a bit of an inspector Clouseau, measuring up and looking around very carefully before attacking anything with too much vim....
Chris.
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Post by havoc on Feb 25, 2007 11:27:41 GMT
For those oilers, you need one of those plastic bottles with a brass tube and rounded end cap. Just push with the end against the ball, it will depress and the oil will flow where it is needed.
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Post by garethp on Feb 27, 2007 21:59:28 GMT
Firstly thanks for the replies, Ron - I've done the dribbling oil down the pin, unfortunately I pressed a bit hard and the whole assembly pushed down onto the lead screw! Even worse is the hole is bigger at the bottom so now there is a nice swarf trap with an oiler rattling about.... I'll give Havoc's suggestion a go. To the myford men  I think the lathe is ex industrial and its a very early one according to Myford, it was cheap so I cant complain, I have new bushes for the counter shaft and a piece of silver steel to replace it as that rattles nicely, I had thought about getting the bed reground but a new chinese machine is tempting, I'll get the saddle off and get things measured and let you know. Regards, Gareth. |
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I think the lathe is ex industrial and its a very early one according to Myford, it was cheap so I cant complain, I have new bushes for the counter shaft and a piece of silver steel to replace it as that rattles nicely, I had thought about getting the bed reground but a new chinese machine is tempting, I'll get the saddle off and get things measured and let you know.