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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2014 22:07:59 GMT
Mainly for ROGER (but have forgotten which thread you mentioned it)----------- I saw this on E-bay a while ago >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Post by Roger on Jul 21, 2014 22:29:48 GMT
Thanks, yes that's the sort of end adjustment I'm having. There was a clever but simple one I saw on a forum thread where the ends looked like two thick pieces of MDF cut in something like an octagon. I couldn't see how the ends were held to each other but it looked like they were. It looked like you could just rest it on any of the flats you liked. I could see that working for a chassis without a boiler but not on a complete locomotive.
I notice that the pictured design doesn't alter the centre to suit the centre of gravity of the locomotive. I would have thought that was the primary reason for having adjustment in the first place. Maybe the one in the picture can put the locomotive down on the angles though, it's not possible to see if the slides go down that far.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Jul 21, 2014 23:00:17 GMT
i have beams in my 1826 cottage. some of the beams have holes drilled in them for bolts to go through to hold one end of a loco in mid air so i can work on it underneath for maintenance held up by old lengths of washing line! the other end of the loco rests on the end of a bench. for a completed and 'used' loco i dont like tipping them up or on end or upside down as this disturbs all sorts of crap in the boiler and mucks up the turret/manifold and checkvalves etc. so a used engine never gets 'turned over' and uses the above rudimentary mid air suspension method. thankfully such occasions are very rare! cheers, julian
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Post by drjohn on Jul 22, 2014 0:22:12 GMT
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Jul 22, 2014 1:12:15 GMT
the above example was when a cylinder drain cock lever decided to shift inextricably on the the taper cock - some fiddly work removing same then rectifying the fault cured the problem and all ok! the only repair on the chassis required in 20 years! cheers, julian
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Post by drjohn on Jul 22, 2014 7:44:53 GMT
With the greatest respect Julian, I doubt many of us would want to hang our loco from the rafters by a bit of string attached well below the centre of gravity of the loco! DJ
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Post by Roger on Jul 22, 2014 8:13:55 GMT
As you say, simple and effective. Mind you, I don't have room for a massive frame like that, more's the pity. Mine is going to be a bench top affair.
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Post by Roger on Jul 22, 2014 8:16:39 GMT
i have beams in my 1826 cottage. some of the beams have holes drilled in them for bolts to go through to hold one end of a loco in mid air so i can work on it underneath for maintenance held up by old lengths of washing line! the other end of the loco rests on the end of a bench. for a completed and 'used' loco i dont like tipping them up or on end or upside down as this disturbs all sorts of crap in the boiler and mucks up the turret/manifold and checkvalves etc. so a used engine never gets 'turned over' and uses the above rudimentary mid air suspension method. thankfully such occasions are very rare! cheers, julian I love the ingenuity, beams are so handy. We had an indoor swing for our kids hung from ours in our old house. I'd be a bit worried that it would slip off though if I did it like that. I hear what you're saying about turning a used locomotive on its head though, that may be a bad idea. Still, even getting it over to 90 degrees would make all the difference when it comes to working underneath.
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nonort
Part of the e-furniture
If all the worlds a Stage someone's nicked the Horses
Posts: 277
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Post by nonort on Jul 22, 2014 13:31:04 GMT
The beauty of using MDF end plates is that you can make them any shape you want. I photocopied the front view of my PANSY and stuck it on the blanks then chopped flats were |I thought they would be most useful. This lead to five sided shape definitely not a regular 'Polygon'. Sorry couldn't not mention the Pythons. The other bonus is that there is no obstruction between the ends. My ends were bolted through the buffer stocks.
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Post by drjohn on Jul 22, 2014 13:50:14 GMT
'scuse my ignorance - what are MDF end plates? The mind boggles - why don't folk speak English anymore?
DJ
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Post by Roger on Jul 22, 2014 14:30:10 GMT
'scuse my ignorance - what are MDF end plates? The mind boggles - why don't folk speak English anymore? DJ Here's what it is according to wikipedia. It's basically a much improved form of hardboard, available in many thicknesses and very easy to machine and saw. It's much stronger than an equivalent hardboard and also more homogeneous and isotropic . I've used it to make my shaped desk, that's 25mm thick, and it's a product of a million uses.
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Post by GeorgeRay on Jul 22, 2014 20:21:54 GMT
DJ MDF = medium density fibreboard. As Roger said it's a bit like hardboard available in thickness from 3mm up to 25mm. George Ray
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 20:31:34 GMT
MDF.. medium density fibre board, ranges from 3mm to 25mm thick, most modern flat packed furniture is made of it today. Standard type is light brown in colour, green will be water resistant and red will be fire resistant with class A being fire proof. It will burn with a blow torch held to it but will never ignite, take away the flame and it will be blackened perhaps even deformed but it will not be on fire no matter how long the troch is held on it. my heating hearth is made from it. We used it for the 1/3 scale model of Chatsworth House that we had to set on fire each night for the film 'Wolfman' staring Anthony Hopkins a few years back, I built my hearth from off cuts. It's strong and can be painted without needing sealing first but I'm not sure how it's used in the context mentioned here? ok for packing between steel plates but I wouldn't trust my loco being held purely by MDF.
Pete
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Post by Roger on Jul 22, 2014 21:06:02 GMT
I think you'd be ok to support just about any 5" gauge locomotive if you used 25mm MDF, it's enormously strong.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 21:30:42 GMT
It's also ideal for making boiler flanging formers !!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 21:35:17 GMT
I think you'd be ok to support just about any 5" gauge locomotive if you used 25mm MDF, it's enormously strong. As I said I don't really understand in which context we are talking off here... MDF is fine for sitting a loco on, i use it myself. But if it's the only thing holding the loco on a turning jig then no...it's not a board designed to take stress in that way, it also delaminates if getting damp over time, I#m probably not understanding the context in which it's being used? Pete
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Post by Roger on Jul 22, 2014 22:04:01 GMT
I've just found the image I saw it on.... I thought it was a clever and simple idea.
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Post by peterseager on Jul 22, 2014 22:46:23 GMT
In Roger's picture there appears to be a wooden strut where the boiler would be. Do we think it is an essential part of the device or is it just an optical illusion?
Peter
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 22:55:47 GMT
I've just found the image I saw it on.... I thought it was a clever and simple idea. I see..... Clever idea for something not too heavy bearing in mind you have to physically lift the loco to set it on the desired hex. The MDF will be ok for that as long as no damp is involved. Damp MDF swells massively overnight if it gets wet, one May have trouble getting the buffers stocks released in such a situation. Which reminds me, I don't like the idea of supporting the weight through the buffer stocks, even less than the buffer beam. Iirc on my loco the stocks are held on by 4 8BA bolts plus the locating spigot.... There is no sheer strength in these which they would need in abundance when using a turning jig.. the whole thing worries me greatly. Perhaps I'm being over cautious but rather that than seeing one's pride and joy twist off a jig?
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Post by Doug on Jul 23, 2014 6:12:38 GMT
I was really wondering about the weight as I became sure i must be wrong about the all up weight of Speedy and sure enough I finally got round to weigh Butch as a comparison (speedy will be about 10Kg more heavy) and butch came in at 48Kg so mid 50's is bang on what was mentioned earlier and having torn my shoulder to bits from lifting very heavy machine spindles i would say its definately too heavy to lift safely. i really doubt you need to tip it over though i have never needed too fixing up either one of the loco's (plus you will end up spilling oil everywhere) but lifting it up in the air is a must to get underneath it. 6" of elevation seems to be plenty.
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