Supplier of Files

[ron]

Hi Everybody
A request from the guy that doesn't like filing
I'm needing some new smooth files, anyone got any supplier recommendations, the last lot I bought were not only expensive but didn't last very long.
Ron

[havoc]

I get mine at the local army dump. Visit often and take what you might need one day. Got a 50x5 cm Nicholson last time for 7 euro. Only suitable for some heavy duty metal removing!

[teakfreak]

I have had some from Radiospares (RS Components) that have lasted me a good few years - don't know what brand they were though.

[chris vine]

Hi Ron,

I found out years ago that the only really good files are those used by silversmiths. (I found this out because my Mother did this as a hobby and I used to borrow hers.)

They are usually Swiss, and often Vallorbe (a town).

I tend to buy them at ME exhibitions from Shesto but I see that HS Walsh the jeweller and clock suppliers do them also (hswalsh.com). They have an amazing website with tools and supplies you have never heard of!!

I am afraid they are rather expensive but they really do work beautifully and last well.

Chris.

[S.D.L.]

I found out years ago that the only really good files are those used by silversmiths. (I found this out because my Mother did this as a hobby and I used to borrow hers.)

They are usually Swiss, and often Vallorbe (a town).

Vallorbe files are superb and available mail order from J&L

Steve Larner

[ron]

Hi Everybody
Thanks for the info, I searched about on Google and there is quite a variation in the price of Vallorbe files, Axminster Power Tools seems to be about the cheapest, I'll give them a try. I bought a couple of Nicholson files recently [2nd cut] and I don't think they are as good as they used to be and they were expensive!
Ron

[Myford Matt]

I saved up, took a deep breath and bought a good selection of Vallorbe files from J&L - never regretted it.

MM

[ron]

I've ordered 4 Vallorbie files, 2X6" and 2X8" from Axminster, £17.45 inc delivery, seems not too bad.
Ron

[chris vine]

Hi Ron,

I expect you know this already:! But you should keep new files for brass as even slightly blunt ones just skid over the surface. (I suppose that is why it makes a good bearing material)

If you are really keen you keep the slightly used ones for steel and after that for cast iron. Even more keen and you colour code them to stop you getting muddled. I don't do this but I am sure people like Tubal Cain, Peter Spenlove, Geo Thomas etc. etc did this?

Chris.

[chris vine]

Sorry did not mean to imply that Peter Spenlove is in the past in any way!

C

[ron]

Chris
And then when they're completely toothless, grind them smooth and make a scraper from them.
Ron

[alanstepney]

My new files start with a blob of yellow paint.
Yellow paint - yellow metal!

Then when that has worn off, it is a fair bet that the file too is worn, and the paint is replaced by red, for steel.

When that wears off, it goes in the "general" drawer and is used for anything.
Surprising how often a really worn file just happens to have the right amount of wear for a particular task.

[chris vine]

I am told that you can sharpen files (a bit?) by leaving them in acid for a while. Has anyone tried this and does it work?

Chris.

[steammadman]

Tose eminant model engineers referred to by may hve started with good intensions
and keot them seperate when new, but, one of those gentlemen ,i know used to "sling em on a pile at one end of the bench,then he had to rout amongst em to find the one he favoured.
Sorry guys no names , no pat drill.

[steammadman]

sorry about the spelling mistakes and missed letters, am being summoned
down stairs
got visiters, AGAIN.

[hat]

On the question of files - About 55 years ago!! I was taken by my father to visit a relative who was a file cutter in a small workshop in Ecclesfield between Sheffield and Barnsley the work was mainly done by hand - just imagine cutting all those grooves to a common pitch by eye. They were then hardened and tempered.

On the issue of renovation I have seen (in books) and heard of acid etching to renovate files but I cant see how this could work because the acid would attack the whole file. However I can see that an old method of boiling in a strong solution of soda to remove grease or loosen debris - followed by a good carding would work.

I must be a goody goody because all my files are colour coded - yellow and green - brass/bronze - steel and I try to be very tidy and don't leave them on the bench to rub with any other tools.

[ron]

The files arrived this morning, very good service from Axminster, it's the first time I have used them.
I really need to start looking after files now that I have to buy them, I tend to file everything with the same file then chuck it in a drawer with about a dozen other ones which can't really do them any favours, bad habits picked up in industry where you just went and got another from the storeman.
Ron

[the_viffer]

Chris Hi

I've not dipped in acid to resharpen but I do sometimes leave old files out in the garden to rust which works in the same as acid dipping.

[chris vine]

Hi Viff and Hat,

I think it must work because the acid (or rust) removes material from all over, but because the teeth are an acute angle, if you remove (say 1 thou) from all round, the 1 thou from the sides will tend to shorten the tooth by more than 1 thou. This will be a quicker effect than the acid trying to remove 1 thou from the end of the points.

I can understand what I am trying to say anyway!!

Chris.

[havoc]

Not really since there is also the effect of the sharp piont being etched/rusted away faster than a flat surface.