Eatonwinks
Major caveat, I am no expert but as a professional engineer that has not stopped me successfully on projects where my basic knowledge was minimal.
My references are
Baggo's web site
www.modeng.johnbaguley.info/Loco%20design/design1.htmand "Model Boilers and Boiler Making" K.N. Harris
My personal approach to your problem would be
1/ Work out how much steam you need
2/ Work out what grate area you need for that amount of steam
3/ Work out how many tubes and what size and length you need
4/ Work out what size firebox tube you need to accommodate the grate width
5/ Work out the overall diameter of the boiler, the firebox and flues should not occupy more than the bottom 5/8ths
6/ Get a copy of the drawing of the boiler for a Sweet Violet.
Baggo's web site has some formulae and spread sheets to work them out. You will have to commute cylinder volume and driving wheel diameter to use Baggo's Formula for Ee the Engine Factor. Most miniature steam loco driving wheels turn at 300 rpm in normal service. You need to assess you stationary engines on the same basis; make up a fudge factor for the driving wheel diameter.
The grate area is for locos with loco drafting. Harris implies an 8/20 ratio natural to forced draft so a natural draft boiler will need a grate 2.5 times larger.
The Sweet Violet is a 3.5"G loco with a drum type boiler and tube type firebox. I suggest it works and is a good guide to the minimum diameter of the fire box.
You may be able to get access to plans for a Canterbury Lamb or Invicta which I think had tubular fireboxes; these may be a smaller diameter than Sweet violet.
Decide if you want to go wet back or dry back. You can always put a super heater coil in the dry back.
Regarding fuel. You mention char as an option. In that most UK writers have not heard of it I suggest you are from Oz or NZ. Char is becoming difficult to obtain as the major supplier has shut down their kiln and one alternative has been described as shale. This alternative need significant draft to keep it alight, you can't just bank a fire and walk off for a cuppa, it will be dead by the time you get back. Another option is still being explored.
For your intended us crushed BBQ heat beads might do; you will not be driving the boiler so hard that the ash will fuse and they burn with natural draft.
If you are from the antipodes then what could be more relevant than a Colonial boiler? Alternate name is an under-fired fire tube boiler.
Baggo's calculations still apply only the drum diameter is smaller.
Regards
Ian