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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2015 7:45:54 GMT
Hi Brian-------- it was already fitted with a so-called drain system which was merely a rod-operated open/shut valve attached at the junction of the two exhaust pipes from the 2 steam chests.... In the first photo you can see the steel rod hanging down ( and pointing forwards ), whilst above it is the stub pipe ( with white solder joint showing ) where that valve was originally fitted..........Here's an interesting design feature = There's no springs on the wheels !!!......and there's no horns either !!..........The rear wheel set is bolted solid to the frame whilst the front set is pivoted centrally across, and within the frame..... Both axles run in oilite bushes with no oiling points needed......However, there appears to be some scope for fitting a rudimentary form of suspension....."watch this space" as they say..
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Post by Roger on Jan 7, 2015 7:48:57 GMT
Is that a PTFE piston ring Alan?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2015 7:53:20 GMT
Sorry, I meant to do some final editing earlier on and forgot-----Yes, it's PTFE with an expander ring underneath...I'm afraid the camera's electronics start to become somewhat challenged at these close-quarter shots..
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jackrae
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,333
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Post by jackrae on Jan 7, 2015 9:32:16 GMT
I assume that you are going to have a cab operating lever for the drain cocks? I used a 1/8" copper tube with a 22 swg spring wire inside to form a Bowden cable to connect the lever to the drain cocks operating mechanism.
Brian If you visit your local angling shop you can get extremely strong multi-stranded stainless steel tracer wire which is excellent for use as a bowden wire. However it is only useful as a "pull" wire due to its flexibility. This also slides very nicely in the teflon tube I previously referred to.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2015 11:57:21 GMT
there are a number of companies that can supply fine wire rope, in films we use this company a lot www.splicingallied.com/ iirc they do sleeves too but if not thin copper tube will do the job and there are other things available...R/C aircraft control lines will do nicely and come with both wire inner and nylon outer cables. Pete
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2015 17:12:30 GMT
Despite all the "koff-ing, wheeeeeeeeeeezing, spluttering etc. ( those etc's are tricky devils !!) I managed a few hours in Swindon "A" Shop to day and soldered the actuating arms in position.....The Aluminium Vice Jaws proved very useful both for a soft grip and as a heat sink/deflector when using the Butane torch.. I also managed to fit and secure the second drain cock body so am happy with the day's efforts overall.......... BUT, have now mis-placed the hand-held igniter !!...Somewhere "SAFE" no doubt !! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Post by Roger on Jan 7, 2015 17:18:42 GMT
Glad to see that the 'Man Flu' is being cast aside in the interests of more interesting matters.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2015 17:26:32 GMT
Hack-hack..........wheeze/splutter...........Ahhhhh-CHooooooooooooooooooooooooo !!..Google Search = Yeb, datz eedy four yew to zay !!...... Meanwhile here's a nice little "head-clearing" song ( Full Volume needed )>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDZqmF3zS04 ---------
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Post by Roger on Jan 7, 2015 18:05:31 GMT
Hack-hack..........wheeze/splutter...........Ahhhhh-CHooooooooooooooooooooooooo !!..Google Search = Yeb, datz eedy four yew to zay !!...... Meanwhile here's a nice little "head-clearing" song ( Full Volume needed )>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDZqmF3zS04 --------- That's better, and if that's not cleared all the pipes, try this one even louder...
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Post by runner42 on Jan 7, 2015 21:34:04 GMT
Hi Alan,
you have found uses for soft solder where others would have baulked at the idea, you know those silver solder or nothing chaps. With soft solder you were able to fix the drain cocks to the cylinders in their correct orientation, whereas I had to screw them up note the position and cross drill the actuating bits. It's never the same position because with a little give in the thread tightening a second time has moved it a few degrees. I see your soft solder reel has suffered the same as mine, the plastic has melted due to incautious use of the soldering iron.
Brian
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 7, 2015 21:59:08 GMT
Soft solder is good enough to hold the nipple on a brake cable, even when you are turning your knuckles white trying to stop. Probably over the top for holding in a couple of drain cocks
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2015 23:19:40 GMT
Hi guys-------- I used solder to act as a secondary retention only because of the close proximity of that cylinder cover stud, however the bodies are fully screwed home and aligned ..... As it's a saturate engine I don't anticipate the heat at that point to be anywhere near the electrical solder's melt point...unlike the "solder-holder" which lost out when in contest with the old gas-heated copper-bit iron !!
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Post by runner42 on Jan 8, 2015 6:32:24 GMT
OK, but what's a saturate engine? Google didn't help.
Brian
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Post by Roger on Jan 8, 2015 7:52:51 GMT
OK, but what's a saturate engine? Google didn't help.
Brian Could be a typo for 'saturated' indicating that there's no superheat on this loco?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2015 10:20:39 GMT
From some Google comes this}---- dictionary.reverso.net/english-cobuild/saturate ------- It defines the Locomotive as a type in terms of its' boiler's output steam condition.... (It's the steam that is saturated, not the whole locomotive ).....Similarly a loco. with any degree of Superheating to it's steam production would be a Superheat loco........BUT, if a previously saturate loco has been converted, then it could be described as having been "Superheated".... and would have "X degrees of Superheat" available from the elements.................I wonder what Joan makes of this ??
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2015 23:28:08 GMT
Hi guys-------- just an update on wee Cadbury}---- I've finished fitting the cylinder drain cocks and found these two extra ones in my tool box so put them on the front covers, mainly to help clear the large amount of condensate that tends to form initially.......During this time I checked the valve setting and found both sides to be opening early in full forward gear ( At front and rear centres the valve port was fully opened instead of just showing lead steam.)...A test on compressed air shows all to be well, so I'm now waiting for a clear day so as to put a fire in her and do a steam test..........I'll be working on the T140 for the next week or so then will come back to make and fit a cross-shaft and linkage....... PS}--- ALL SIX gaskets hand made and NOT purchased from Maxitrak !! ---------------------------------------------------------------
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Post by Roger on Jan 20, 2015 14:34:26 GMT
Looking good Alan, and who needs rails when carpet gives a smooth ride. If I see a line of tell tale scorch marks, I'll know you couldn't wait and gave her a try in the lounge.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 15:29:15 GMT
Carpet ?? ----------- that's an old hand towel on top of the workbench..I do actually have some surplus rail which will be laid on the bench opposite ( The reception yards ).............................................................. . ..........................................................................................
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 15:33:54 GMT
And this is just a "Fun-thing" to get steam up when I'm starting to loose sight of the end goal !! ..................................................
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Post by Roger on Jan 20, 2015 19:00:49 GMT
I used to have the Meccano steam plant and loved playing with that as a child. Happy days.
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