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Post by roger the dodger on Feb 23, 2017 21:06:46 GMT
Thanks for all your help on this.
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Post by chris vine on Feb 23, 2017 22:50:10 GMT
I have a rather poor (in my opinion) static converter. Sold in large numbers.
My mill (harrison) won't start in the higher ratios unless the oil has been really warmed through. However after i was given an old 3 phase motor which I wired in parallel with the mill/converter it is vastly improved.
so, as soon as you switch on the static converter, it runs the slave 3 phase motor - all the time. The mill, when switched on, starts up much better and (I think!) runs quieter.
Chris.
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Post by atgordon on Feb 24, 2017 0:33:43 GMT
as soon as you switch on the static converter, it runs the slave 3 phase motor - all the time. The mill, when switched on, starts up much better and (I think!) runs quieter. Chris. If the 3 phase slave motor is wired into the mill circuit (so that all three legs from the slave conjoin with the single from the static converter and 3-phase motor wiring from the mill), you've got a redneck rotary converter! And, if the 3-ph motor is 1.5 * Mill HP, I'm sure it will work much better than a static converter. If you add some run capacitors on the 2 "derived legs", you will smooth out the voltage fluctuations! However, the capacitors need tuning to suit your setup. Do a search on RPC capacitor tuning for more info ( I've linked one site here). Or get a cheap VFD and save a lot of time and effort!
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Post by runner42 on Feb 24, 2017 7:10:04 GMT
I daren't show you mine, particularly at this time because I am making a great amount of swarf that is making an untidy place even more so. Looking at the above workshops I am amazed at the floor coverings such as carpet and rubber mats that adorn the standing places next to the lathe. Doesn't these artefacts make sweeping up metal swarf even more difficult? I know from my experience that much of the swarf goes on the floor or on me so I have to sweep it up every few hours as I am treading in it and I have to remove much that is embedded in the rubber soled shoes. What methods apart from brush and pan are used for getting swarf off the floor and into the blue bin (land fill rubbish)? Do I see a wet and dry vacuum cleaner in one that is possibly used from floor cleaning?
Brian
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Post by Roger on Feb 24, 2017 7:27:01 GMT
I daren't show you mine, particularly at this time because I am making a great amount of swarf that is making an untidy place even more so. Looking at the above workshops I am amazed at the floor coverings such as carpet and rubber mats that adorn the standing places next to the lathe. Doesn't these artefacts make sweeping up metal swarf even more difficult? I know from my experience that much of the swarf goes on the floor or on me so I have to sweep it up every few hours as I am treading in it and I have to remove much that is embedded in the rubber soled shoes. What methods apart from brush and pan are used for getting swarf off the floor and into the blue bin (land fill rubbish)? Do I see a wet and dry vacuum cleaner in one that is possibly used from floor cleaning?
Brian Hi Brian, I can't claim to be the tidiest or cleanest in the workshop, but one thing I can't abide is crunching around on swarf. I use one of those Wet & Dry vacuums made by Karcher and it's brilliant. It has one of those car 'Air cleaner' type filters on the outgoing air that you can take off and knock all the debris out of. I've only replaced it once in 3 years.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2017 8:17:49 GMT
Has anybody ever used Coroline/Onduline bituminous roofing on their sheds/workshops and if so any problems?
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itchyballs
Active Member
trying to figure out why
Posts: 29
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Post by itchyballs on Apr 2, 2017 13:10:53 GMT
Don't those artefacts. it is first person singular. those for things you do not have near you and these for things in your hand. EG I will post these letters once I have found those car keys. best way to explain it. hope that helps))))
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Post by Jo on Apr 2, 2017 13:37:34 GMT
Has anybody ever used Coroline/Onduline bituminous roofing on their sheds/workshops and if so any problems? I had it on my garage. After 15 years it had sagged because it was not boarded underneath the builder only used battening and the sheets had become brittle so if you lent on it you would get a hole. When I put up a (new to me) garden shed last year I brought it, I had got cheesed off with expensive felt and having to replace it every 5 years so used that over the supplied boarded roof. However I did fit twice as many battens as the instructions asked for, used smaller nail spacing and reinforced the bottom with the off cuts (roof needed 4 1/2 ft pieces, supplied lengths were 6ft). Jo
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Post by danlank on Apr 2, 2017 16:21:49 GMT
Well I've just started the very first step in getting back into model engineering, by ordering a shed for a workshop, and doing some of the groundwork. I won't be putting much heavy stuff in it, probably a Myford and maybe a small mill, but I'd love to know if anybody has any good advice on whether to strengthen the shed base for machine tools?
I've bought a Billy Oh Apex shed which seems quite good quality, and included their Eze Base which is a frame on four tines which dig into the ground - designed for using when the ground isn't prepared properly. However, I was planning on laying paving slabs to build onto, so I'm wondering whether to just use bearers on that instead?
Flooring is 19mm tongue and groove.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom!
Thanks,
Dan
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,814
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Post by uuu on Apr 2, 2017 17:01:18 GMT
My workshop has a timber floor, and it's not ideal. Light lathes really need a firm foundation - the bed needs setting up to turn a consistent diameter, and the timber shifts around.
Wilf
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2017 18:27:33 GMT
Well I've just started the very first step in getting back into model engineering, by ordering a shed for a workshop, and doing some of the groundwork. I won't be putting much heavy stuff in it, probably a Myford and maybe a small mill, but I'd love to know if anybody has any good advice on whether to strengthen the shed base for machine tools? I've bought a Billy Oh Apex shed which seems quite good quality, and included their Eze Base which is a frame on four tines which dig into the ground - designed for using when the ground isn't prepared properly. However, I was planning on laying paving slabs to build onto, so I'm wondering whether to just use bearers on that instead? Flooring is 19mm tongue and groove. Would appreciate any words of wisdom! Thanks, Dan I would recommend putting your shed on a concrete slab of at least 6" thickness and then any machine on its own 1" plywood sheet to spread the load.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2017 18:53:33 GMT
My workshop is on a concrete base too, has a wooden floor and under the lathe I have a large sheet of 1/4" steel plate which is slightly larger than the lathe cabinet. A short story about the steel, I retrieved this from the steel welding floor that was laid down on IIRC 'L' stage at Pinewood studio's for when we built the fully submersible 50 foot 'Victor' class Russian sub for the Bond film 'The World is not Enough' I struggled with help to load it into my Ford Escort cabriolet ...good job no police saw me on the 12 mile drive home as the suspension was right down on it's stops. The things you do for the workshop?..... Pete
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Post by keith1500 on Apr 3, 2017 19:34:51 GMT
Orville,
That's an interesting thought/ tip. Putting a 1" sheet of ply under a machine when placing on a concrete floor.
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Post by John Baguley on Apr 3, 2017 21:02:30 GMT
I opted for a wooden floor for my new workshop mainly because I was on a limited budget and didn't want the expense and work of laying a 5m x 3m concrete slab. The wooden floor will also be a lot warmer and drier than a bare concrete one. The floor joists are 150mm x 50mm and sit on breeze block pillars set into the ground. I put extra pillars along the back two joists where the heavy machines are to spread the load. The subsoil is boulder clay on top of shale so pretty solid. The floor itself is 38mm decking planks covered with 25mm flooring grade chipboard so is pretty solid. I've noticed that it does shift slightly with the weather as the fit of the door alters through the year. I'm happy with it though but would probably relevel the lathes if I had any real precision turning to do. I don't think that I would want to sit machinery on the sort of flimsy floors that most sheds come with unless the joists sit on a proper solid base. I don't think ordinary loose laid paving slabs would be solid enough. I did initially look at buying a ready made shed but decided against it in the end as I thought that I could build a far more substantial one myself for the same or less money (which turned out to be true). It was good fun as well and I enjoyed the build John
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Post by danlank on Apr 3, 2017 23:14:28 GMT
Thanks for the advice, all! Will investigate concrete base ideas...
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Post by 92220 on Apr 4, 2017 11:04:59 GMT
Why not just locally, cut a rectangle out of the floor and set a concrete base in for each machine. That would give you the best of both worlds. For warmth in winter you should still insulate the floor. I had a 10 ft x 8 ft wooden shed that I used as a workshop, and I insulated the walls and roof with 1" foil faced insulation board. It was still cold in the winter. I then insulated the floor with the same insulation board and fitted standard chipboard flooring over the top. It was amazing the improvement in winter temperature.
Now that my workshop is in 2/3 the brick built double garage (who uses a garage as a garage!?), the floor, ceiling and walls are all insulated this way and I have a night storage heater in there that is only on for about 4 hours in 24 in the winter, and it keeps the workshop at a steady 70-74 degrees whatever the weather. Warm in winter and cool in summer.
Bob
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Post by dhamblin on Apr 4, 2017 19:13:00 GMT
Same thinking here with the garage, only the conversion this year has to be completely removable, which has altered my plans slightly. Re-screed the floor to get a level base, then timber and insulation below the floor, with a damp course, and isulation boards on the walls. All the electrical supplies can be surface mounted for ease of access. If necessary I can reinforce the floor by the walls where the machine tools will go.
Oh, and repair the big crack on the back wall and replace the roof...
Regards,
Dan
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Ben O
Active Member
Garratt on hold...starting a Heisler instead.
Posts: 30
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Post by Ben O on Apr 7, 2017 3:06:08 GMT
Hello Forumites, With work about to get serious on our workshop, I thought I'd share a quick 'before'photo and (hopefully) follow up with a 'during' and after'. 20170406_075642[1] by Ben O, on Flickr The calm before the storm. The mill (yet to be purchased) will go under the loco drawing already on the wall with the lathe to the right, towards the corner. Main workbench will be to the right again, against the back wall (below and to the right of the last powerpoint). Storage and shelving to go to left of mill. As it's a dual purpose hobby farm/model engineering space the foreground will be general 'workspace' (building trailers, fixing cars etc etc). More as it develops
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Post by bigal on Apr 17, 2017 15:04:15 GMT
Roger am liking your new workshop really useful amount of space for your equipment and lots of blank walls. I was wondering how you will insulate this space and would appreciate any tips you could give.I have a single brick,single garage size space to insulate with a tiled roof. Regards Alan
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Post by roger the dodger on Jun 12, 2017 21:11:19 GMT
Well I've been in my new rented workshop for three months now and only just finished moving all my equipment in and sorting out. Hence the quietness from me as it has taken most evenings after work and car loads all on my own, moving back breaking heavy stuff in my estate car. Oh and guess what I only lost one machine. As the driver did not tie the very heavy donkey saw down well enough, it came straight off the side of the flatbed trailer and smashed on the roadside on the first corner. Needless to say I did not use him for any more moves.
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