Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,870
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Post by Midland on Feb 15, 2019 19:16:54 GMT
Ed The one bit of news I can add is that Barry is now in a home and very ill. He has been fighting the dreaded C for a while. Merlin knows where I think. D
I have collected quite an archive of old photos. Have a look at the Southampton Society Facebook page and see if you know the lady driver!!!
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 15, 2019 20:36:37 GMT
Hi Ed, For the glass, I used www.watch-batteries.comTheir website seems to have become not as easy to navigate in the intervening 6 years, but I am sure if you emailed them with your requirements they will be as quick and cheap as both Jim and I found. Cheers, Julian
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 16, 2019 10:03:56 GMT
Thanks Julian.
I had a bad day yesterday. First I lost the first coal door latch I made so had to make another one. I think it may have got sucked up in the vacuum cleaner! Then I got a bit impatient and buggered up two parts just as I was finishing them - so had to remake them!
But it was a nice sunny day so I got out to the shed and soft-soldered the collets into the doors ready for the latches. Oxy-propane was all I have out there, which was a bit over-the-top, but with a nice soft flame it did the job well and Bakers Fluid is just marvelous! I put a tiny snip of solder next to the collet and it flowed in nicely.
I have also ordered a No.2 morse taper chuck for my ER 16 collets for the Myford lathe. I am fed up with ruining fine work because the pin vice that I bought years ago does not hold the work concentrically or firmly enough.
Now I have to experiment with the adhesive.
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 16, 2019 10:31:34 GMT
I have been trawling the internet and this 1mm thick glass is going to be a problem. The nearest I have got is from model shops which sell clear acrylic 'Solaris' sheets. One firm will laser-cut to order. Most watch suppliers only go to 32mm.
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Post by Roger on Feb 16, 2019 11:46:11 GMT
How about this stuff for Dolls Houses? It's so cheap, I've ordered some. I'm sure glass is fine, but this seems so much simpler. I don't think it's a big deal if you have to replace it every few years if that proves to be necessary. It can be CNC machined and some spares made just in case.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 16, 2019 12:08:22 GMT
If you want 1.0mm glass, standard microscope slide glass is 1.0mm and comes in various sizes.
Bob
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Post by RGR 60130 on Feb 16, 2019 13:29:17 GMT
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 16, 2019 14:53:48 GMT
Thanks all of you - the dolls house stuff looks really promising - and relatively cheap too. Not sure how clear it is or how easy to cut? Safer than glass but would not like to have to change it too often with 64 screws to unscrew and screw up again! Have you tried cutting it Roger and is it pretty clear? Wonder how it responds to the UV in sunlight?
Had a good look at microscope and photographic stuff, but could not get thickness in sizes suitable for 2.125 inch diameter..
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Post by Roger on Feb 16, 2019 16:01:54 GMT
Thanks all of you - the dolls house stuff looks really promising - and relatively cheap too. Not sure how clear it is or how easy to cut? Safer than glass but would not like to have to change it too often with 64 screws to unscrew and screw up again! Have you tried cutting it Roger and is it pretty clear? Wonder how it responds to the UV in sunlight? Had a good look at microscope and photographic stuff, but could not get thickness in sizes suitable for 2.125 inch diameter.. I've only ordered it today, so I don't know yet what it's like to cut. I can't imagine it's difficult, it must be quite hard.
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Post by ettingtonliam on Feb 16, 2019 20:05:54 GMT
I wonder if the dolls house stuff is a thinner version of that sold by B&Q for shed windows? If so, it goes yellow after about 3 years, but that is after its been exposed to full sunlight all that time, which (I presume) your loco won't be.
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Post by Jim Scott on Feb 16, 2019 21:33:33 GMT
I have been trawling the internet and this 1mm thick glass is going to be a problem. Hi Ed, As Julian intimated we went through this process a few years back, fortunately flat watch glass was the answer to our problem in 5" gauge. Thinking about it again I wonder if optical quality 1mm glass sheet or even ready made circular clear glass blanks may be available from the makers of optical filters? There are several suppliers in the UK, www.opticalfilters.co.uk/glass.html for one. I suspect though that for small orders there might be a price to pay... Jim S
Sorry Reg, just noticed you've suggested almost the same thing...
JS
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 16, 2019 22:34:26 GMT
Hi Ed,
Both Jim and I used the same firm.
Very quick and cheap. Proper flat glass excellently ground to exact dimensions.
Send them an email with your requirements.
6 years ago their website was quite user friendly.
Don't know why it isn't still the same.
I made round spectacle glasses for my 57XX pannier tank with perspex but is does not compare with proper glass that Jim and I both had for our Terriers.
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 16, 2019 23:48:26 GMT
I will give them a ring next week and see what they say Jim and Julian. I have just had a look at their site and it looks promising. In the mean time I have ordered some of the plastic sheet, but I also wonder whether it will change colour after a year or two or even sooner with oil and hot steam about.
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Post by Roger on Feb 17, 2019 8:17:42 GMT
I will give them a ring next week and see what they say Jim and Julian. I have just had a look at their site and it looks promising. In the mean time I have ordered some of the plastic sheet, but I also wonder whether it will change colour after a year or two or even sooner with oil and hot steam about. Just a thought... if you look at the way glasses are fitted into their frames, they are made slightly over size with the edges being chamfered. They split the frames so they can be removed, but in our case I wonder you could just flex a plastic 'glass' and clip it into the frame without having to take the two frames apart? If that was the case, replacing them would be a piece of cake. Out of interest, I replaced the glass in the workshop door with Lexan, and you would be hard pressed to see it's not glass. Some of these modern plastics are extremely scratch resistant and very 'glass like' in appearance.
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 17, 2019 16:30:54 GMT
Sounds good Roger. I will see how easy it is to cut when the plastic arrives. Today has been busy for me. We have had a big photographic competition which the Welsh Photographic Federation organise so as their Judges and Presenters Secretary I was present as the WPF rep. Jan organises all the food for the guest judges and workers.
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Gary L
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,208
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Post by Gary L on Feb 17, 2019 17:16:08 GMT
Thanks all of you - the dolls house stuff looks really promising - and relatively cheap too. Not sure how clear it is or how easy to cut? Safer than glass but would not like to have to change it too often with 64 screws to unscrew and screw up again! Have you tried cutting it Roger and is it pretty clear? Wonder how it responds to the UV in sunlight? Had a good look at microscope and photographic stuff, but could not get thickness in sizes suitable for 2.125 inch diameter.. I think Roger is on the right track with his dolls house windows. I agree glass is nice, and doesn't age or scratch when you clean it, but in 1mm thickness or thereabouts it is also very fragile. There may be a good reason why it is hard to get in large sizes! It isn't just impact resistance you must think of, but also that the frame and the spectacle plate must be dead flat and not flex, or you will crack the glass as the tighten up your screws; or even (if there is any flex in the platework structure) as you tighten up some unrelated screws somewhere else! HTH Gary
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 17, 2019 21:29:49 GMT
Hi Gary,
I think you are overplaying this. Proper glass of round shape is easily obtainable and far superior to perspex or other clear plastic. Mine for Stepney if my memory is correct were 1.5mm thick glass, and the cab is made of 1/16" sheet same as Ed's except mine is steel. When you add in paint thickness, the glass of 1.5mm is actually quite loose. It is not pinched or liable to crack.
If Ed can make a working plunger for the cab coal bunker door, then surely it is worthwhile getting proper glass for the cab spectacle windows?
I cannot imagine a scenario when my own glass spectacle windows would get broken!
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by Jim Scott on Feb 17, 2019 22:32:57 GMT
........Mine for Stepney if my memory is correct were 1.5mm thick glass, and the cab is made of 1/16" sheet same as Ed's except mine is steel...... Hi Julian,
Ed has produced his 'lightweight' cab in 20 gauge sheet thus the requirement for 1mm glass. At 2.125" dia. 1mm glass might be a little more fragile than 1.5 mm as well as being more difficult to source.
Jim
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 17, 2019 22:54:26 GMT
They do make 0.8mm thick glass which would mean a nice loose fit in the spectacle plate, particularly after a thou of paint thickness on each side is taken into account. I thought that 1mm might be too tight and crack as Gary says. However, I have to say that although my spectacle plate is only 36thou thick, by the time the bezels are screwed on and the brass angle is glued on, it is amazing how this stiffens it up. I will also have to take account how much 10 bespoke glasses will cost, and if they will process such a small order. But I have to say I would prefer glass to plastic.
I also thought that I would make the tool and sandboxes of 16SWG brass, as I have some, and this will stiffen the bottom end of the cab. The reversing quadrant will also have a steel bracket to further strengthen this piece, which also forms part of the rear wheel splashers.
Roger may have ideas about how I machine the cab door surrounds. These have an offset angle to fasten them to the cab sides. The most accurate way of making them would be to machine from both sides in the Tormach making them from a single piece of 3/8" mild or stainless steel plate. I already have the drawings on 2D CAD, and it is fairly simple to convert to 3D. Just need to find a convenient setup point for when I turn the piece over. The quicker and less wasteful way would be to use strip and hard-solder the flange on, but this would probably not be so accurate a fit.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 17, 2019 23:23:36 GMT
My apologies, I thought Ed had told me when we met in January he had sheets of 1/16" brass to use for the cab and bunker.
20 swg brass sheet - is 4 thou more than 1/32" sheet at 36 thou. That is incredibly thin. I use 1/16" steel sheet in 5"g. 36 thou in 7.25" is very very thin in my opinion.
I've got a half meter by 1 meter bit of 1/16" brass sheet and plenty of 1/16" steel sheet if Ed wants any of it.
I must say that making a 7.25"g loco cab and bunker out of 36 thou brass sounds a bit bonkers to me!
Cheers,
Julian
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