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Post by terrier060 on Feb 9, 2019 19:08:23 GMT
All the holes in the bezels are drilled ready for tapping 12BA. Screws and taps on order. I made a simple jig by cutting a groove in a piece of aluminium using the CAD drawing. I just drop each bezel in the groove and hold it down with a bit of Bluetack and spot the drill holes. This ensures that all will be concentric and line up exactly with the holes in the spectacle plates. bezel jig by ed cloutman, on Flickr Bezel simple jig by ed cloutman, on Flickr
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 10, 2019 15:00:17 GMT
Can any of you help me please. Do any of you have first hand experience with the Terrier coal door. It would seem from the images that the latch handle is spring-loaded, but I may be wrong. If so, it would be logical that you pull the knob out against a spring and when you let go the pin engages in the hole to keep the door in the up position. But looking at the images there does not seem to be room for a spring, in fact it looks more like a buffer spring which would keep the knob out and you would have to PUSH against the spring to latch it?? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Coal door latch by ed cloutman, on Flickr
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 874
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 10, 2019 15:22:00 GMT
Hi Ed, it must be spring loaded because you can see where it has scratched the paint off the bunker when people have let it drop.
Mike
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Post by Roger on Feb 10, 2019 15:31:21 GMT
Hi Ed, No first hand experience I'm afraid, but from the well worn scratch marks on the paint, it certainly looks like it's sprung. I think it would be dangerous to have a non-sprung pull handle with a potential guillotine like that! I agree that there's not much room for a spring though, you can see the size of the hole in the bunker that tells you how big the pin must be. I imagine the pin and the handle are separate pieces, with a reduced diameter for the spring. There's not much travel, so there are a couple of possible arrangements that might work. One would be to have a collar on the diameter that the spring sits on, with the coller being held in place by a pin hidden underneath. Another possibility it to have a spring in a hole in the middle, with a pin fixed to the body, and a slot in the plunger for it to engage with the end of the spring.
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 10, 2019 15:46:16 GMT
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Post by Roger on Feb 10, 2019 16:18:59 GMT
Hi Ed, No, because you can't fit the spring. If you make the whole of the location pin and shoulder in one piece, with that threaded into the handle then it will. Looking at the diameter of the pin, that seems too small to me. The hole in the bunker looks quite large. I wouldn't have a sharp point on that either, just a chamfer on a larger diameter would be my choice.
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 10, 2019 16:41:38 GMT
You beat me to it Roger! I was just doing the drawing as you responded - see above! I will have a go at making one - getting towards watchwork - not really my scene. Agree with the point - just to demonstrate and will definitely round off the end - don't want to scratch the new paintwork although it would add authenticity!
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 10, 2019 16:45:57 GMT
Hi Ed, it must be spring loaded because you can see where it has scratched the paint off the bunker when people have let it drop. Mike Thanks Mike - yes and I could not explain the wide scratch-marks of paint, but looking at my drawing all becomes clear!
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 10, 2019 16:51:57 GMT
Hi Ed, No, because you can't fit the spring. If you make the whole of the location pin and shoulder in one piece, with that threaded into the handle then it will. Looking at the diameter of the pin, that seems too small to me. The hole in the bunker looks quite large. I wouldn't have a sharp point on that either, just a chamfer on a larger diameter would be my choice. I will actually make a collar and sweat it onto the door. This will give enough thickness to the door to thread it so that I can screw the spring-loaded handle into it.
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Post by GeorgeRay on Feb 10, 2019 18:58:00 GMT
Ed
Yes it is definitely sprung and you have to pull against the spring to move the door without making heavy marks in the paintwork.
George Ray
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 11, 2019 18:15:57 GMT
Thanks George - I have made the knob and body - definitely watchmaking. Small work never used to bother me but I think becoming increasingly long-sighted and now having shaky hands that find it difficult to hold small things I hate these fiddly jobs.
I can remember when I was building my tank loco in the 1950s getting impatient with my father because he was having trouble fitting some small screws. "Give it here Dad" I said as I couldn't stand the frustration of watching him struggle with his large fingers. I fitted the screws in seconds with my small nimble fingers. But now I know how he felt as I am now just as clumsy (and about the same age as he was)!
I will post some pictures when I have made the plunger - and found a very small spring!
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weary
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 290
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Post by weary on Feb 11, 2019 23:51:21 GMT
Disposable lighters are a good source of tiny (steel) springs. If you cannot find anything suitable or do not want to wind a 'miniature' spring pm me your address and I'll have a look through some of my spares and if I have something that might do the job put a couple of suitable sizes in the mail to you for you to play with.
You're looking for something about 5/6mm long uncompressed and to go over a 3mm diameter shaft as I see things (I'm metric!)
Regards, Phil
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Post by steamer5 on Feb 12, 2019 5:02:58 GMT
Hi Ed, Another source of springs is ball point pens, they are not all created equal different dia’s & lengths
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 12, 2019 18:24:16 GMT
Definitely watchmaking! In the end I wound my own spring which was easier than I thought it was going to be. I think it is wound from a piece of Easyflo wire!! The latch is not fixed to the door yet, as I need to wait for better weather so that I can go out into the garden shed where I do my soldering. We all know what happens in the workshop when you use Bakers Fluid - wonderful stuff though. Cab coal door latch by ed cloutman, on Flickr
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 14, 2019 21:05:41 GMT
Here is a finished bezel with all the screws in place. I hope Julian finds this OK - he has been very quiet of late, but I do listen to what he says. I am quite pleased with the 12BA screws, though believe it or not, even they are over-scale! For those who are interested I made a very simple jig to get all the screws the same length. These can be easily made or altered by making them of different lengths, or counter-boring a hole in the back end. This one is threaded 12BA. Each one is screwed tightly into the jig and a fairly coarse needle file is used to file it down nearly to the face of the jig. Forgive the damage to the chuck, but it is 50 years old and came from Burnerds when I was an apprentice there and is a very nice Griptru scroll chuck. I bought some very cheap taps - set of three for a fiver and they seem to be OK in brass as long as the tapping drill hole is generous. I would not trust them in steel or in a blind hole on an important piece. Another good buy you will see soon is 4mmx4mmx0.6mm brass angle. It is perfect for the corner pieces for joining the cab together and of course to hold the roof. The adhesive has arrived so I will do some tests and then begin assembly. The brass angle is used by railway modellers and can be bought in 12 inch lengths from most good model shops. Inside outside bezels by ed cloutman, on Flickr Screw length jig by ed cloutman, on Flickr
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 14, 2019 21:45:10 GMT
Hi Ed,
Very good indeed!
I had the spectacle glass ordered and to hand before I finished the 'holes' for same in the spectacle plates, and making the frames for the glass.
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 14, 2019 23:19:30 GMT
Hi Julian - yes the glass - I have looked up some of the threads on this Forum, but most are now too long ago to be of use.
I have tried looking at microscope glass, photographic glass plates but so far size has eluded me. I thought 2x2 glass plates might do but my windows are 2.125" diameter.
Looks as if I shall either have to find a source of 1mm sheet glass and cut my own, or find a supplier who can cut them for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. There are many sources for smaller glasses, such as watch or clock glasses.
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 15, 2019 9:40:47 GMT
It is amazing, but when I first joined a ME club (Soton at Cobden Meadows), 3.5" gauge was the most common and there were a few 5" gauge locos which we thought were huge! Peter Faggs King Arthur comes to mind, and later John Adam's fantastic Coronation Pacifics. Now the norm seems to be ground level 7.25" gauge with 5" gauge as second most popular. The Big Boy thread caught my eye and the Dobwalls railway was certainly one to visit and it is so sad that it is no longer there. With most of these projects it is often one man's dream and sadly many fall by the wayside when the owner dies. But there is always someone somewhere wants to go even bigger, so although Lisa'a post makes me instantly want to go and live in Australia where they do things bigger and have better weather, they have been pipped in size by the following: www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxyKBy7CfLUThe picture of the King Arthur was taken by our resident photographer Alan Bealing. Peter Faggs King Arthur Cobden Meadows Southampton 1967 S by ed cloutman, on Flickr
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Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,871
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Post by Midland on Feb 15, 2019 10:36:09 GMT
Ed As a member of the Soton alumni, you might appreciate the attached which certainly supports your 3 1/2" comment. This is from 1964, 55 years ago. 1964 news letter 3 X by David Goyder, on Flickr And you could put our 3 1/2" day into your calendar, Saturday June 29th. This is becoming increasingly popular and we have had as many at twenty locos in steam or just loitering!! We combine it with with traction engines for a good party! And some odd bits!!! P1080930 by David Goyder, on Flickr Cheers David PS Great incentive to get the Princess Royal back together and I am sure Jerry will bring her Britannia stable mate! PPS And we run the 7 1/4" track as there are lots of punters with cash attracted by the 'goings-0n'. It is just the 5" lot that is banned for the day!
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Post by terrier060 on Feb 15, 2019 15:00:19 GMT
Well that really brings back memories David - I knew most of them on that list - sadly more than half have passed on and some are very ill.
They got my initial wrong - E not F! I was not even aware that there was a list. I have photos of a lot of them. I could not remember Fred Kirby's name - now thanks to you I can put the name to a face in one of my photos.
I wonder how many of those locos got finished. I know one or two that did not. I watched Ed Salt and John Dilly build their B1s. In fact I have one of the chassis that were built as a batch, but gave it up when I got the full-size drawings and saw how much Martin Evans had mucked it up. If anyone wants a part-built B1 I have the basic chassis, wheels and bogie - drawings including the full-size GA drawing, but no cylinder castings. I was going to fabricate those.
I also have an extensive set of full-size 'Coronation Pacific' drawings if anyone is interested. I shall never get down to building one, but once intended to build one in 7.25" gauge. I was young then and could have handled the weight!
I am still in touch with Merlin and Barry Eden. Barry and I more or less joined the club together and have always kept in touch. He even took me on the footplate of 'Swanage' years ago. Jim Rawlings had a beautiful 3.5" gauge 'Virginia' which ran so smoothly round the track you could hardly hear it, and so did Ed Salt's 'Princess Marina'. Funny how one remembers these things.
I too have a 'Princess Royal' by H P Jackson - the parts originally came from Clarksons of York. The loco is nearly finished, but somehow it got surpassed by the Terriers. The boiler is probably as big in volume as the Terriers and should be quite efficient with the combustion chamber and water tubes. Quite a complicated boiler to make.
Ed
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