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Post by Jim on Dec 13, 2010 20:27:14 GMT
Like everything else it can be done and is not as hard as it looks . The words of a master craftsman Shawki but for the rest of us it's well,......difficult to say the least. Kind regards, Jim
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 14, 2010 8:52:05 GMT
HI Jim , I started the hobby 30 years ago , I am an aircraft engineer ( mechanic ) but I new very little about steam trains engineering and had not much experience in silver soldering , I wanted to build a steam locomotive when I was introduced to the hobby by a gentleman called Neil Matheson ( we worked together as teachers in TAFE ) . The point is that the most important issue is the will ,once that is there then my statement stands correct . A Whole unit may look complicated but the unit comprises of small parts , each part is much simpler item to understand and make . The trick is one should handle one part at a time and the assembly will look after itself . Just like, look after the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves .The other secret is ask , and I have asked many questions ? Happy steaming
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Post by Jim on Dec 14, 2010 20:21:20 GMT
Thanks Shawki, what you say is quite true and in fact what I do most of the time too, except yesterday, but we won't go into that other than to say the 'waster bin' got another thing added to it.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 19, 2010 6:20:08 GMT
At last the tender is complete and now is in storage until the engine is complted ;D may be in the next few years . Three photo for your judgements . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 19, 2010 6:21:13 GMT
Second photo Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 19, 2010 6:22:02 GMT
Third photo Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2010 10:01:08 GMT
Lovely work Shawki especially the riveting detail. A couple of questions from this novice, in pic2 it shows the tender/loco hoses, I can see 4 large and 2 smaller hoses, could you explain to me where these all go , the reason I ask as my drawing for the Doncaster only has 2 which I assume are for the 2 injectors as there us no pump. So I'm on a learning curve hence why I ask the question, the other point of interest is what looks like a brass outlet on the rear buffer beam, what's that one for ? Anyway as I said great work.. Pete
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2010 10:45:34 GMT
Excellent as usual Shawki. Like Pete, I'm taking notes! JB
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redmog
Part of the e-furniture
Not Morgan weather
Posts: 461
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Post by redmog on Dec 19, 2010 11:23:18 GMT
Shawki Will Correct Me.
I'll take a guess. One for the hand pump. One for the axle pump, if fitted. One for the axle pump return, if fitted. Two for the two injectors. Looks like you could be one short Shawki, but I know you won't be, because as always, splendid work, and setting the pace. Although there could be a fifth, just hiding.
Chris
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Post by Jim on Dec 19, 2010 11:39:30 GMT
Full marks Shawki. You have really captured the full sized prototype in miniature. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge.
Jim
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 20, 2010 8:48:58 GMT
The answer is simple In front there is five pipes , four of them are fuel hoses 3/8 OD ,one is from emergency double acting hand pump in the tender , the second is water to the axle pump and a steam operated pump , the third is return from by-pass valve , the fourth is water supply though a valve to the injector . The fifth hose is a 3/8 OD rubber hose slipped on to a 3/16 OD brass tube which runs along the tender to the back ( hence the the brass pipe ) , this is to connect vacuum to the carriages brakes . You can see the brass pipe on one of the photos of the underframe . The only thing missing is the number on the back and chains between the bogies and the main frame , they have been done now . Thanks all for the remarks .
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Deeja
Seasoned Member
Posts: 131
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Post by Deeja on Dec 21, 2010 0:48:59 GMT
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 22, 2010 7:28:07 GMT
David , when did you build your engines ? What plans did you use for the 3.5" gauge ? I haven't seen one in flesh in 3.5" gauge , many in 5" G .
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Deeja
Seasoned Member
Posts: 131
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Post by Deeja on Dec 22, 2010 9:28:04 GMT
Shawki, I built the 3½"g one in the late 1960s and the first boiler ticket is dated 1970. Totally from scratch from some photos and dimesions from the prototype and some HO gauge plans. I have put about 1/2 ton of coal thru the firebox door. The valve gear needs re-bushing after so much running. Stephenson valve gear with 5 eccentics on the axle incl the axle pump. Yes, it's a bit crowded! Here is a photo from the 1980 Moorabbin Convention published in Live Steam Feb1981. I do have another photo which I will scan and post. The 5"g one was built by my uncle (now deceased) from EJ Winter's casting/plans etc. Stephenson valve gear again with 5 eccentrics. Most of it's running has been at the Newcastle track and I have not had enough time to take it around the other clubs much, so not many have seen it. (I travel overseas for paid work about 10 times/year and it eats into the play time - oh when can I retire and play trains??). The avatar photo was taken at the (now no longer) private railway of Bob Farquhar at Coffs Harbour. For you Poms, the original 32 class had Allen straight link valve gear. Deeja
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Deeja
Seasoned Member
Posts: 131
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Post by Deeja on Dec 23, 2010 5:47:49 GMT
Shawki, Here are 2 more photos of my 3½"g C32 Calss. At SSME Ashfield when new in 1970 and at SSME Luddenham (after we moved from Ashfield in 1970/71 Deeja
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 23, 2010 9:49:46 GMT
Thanks David , very nice , mine will have Allen straight link valve gear .
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jan 1, 2011 4:07:44 GMT
Since my last posting I have been working on the rods . Like any other job it can be done in many different ways ,however I use the following method , it works for me . 1- When the frame is made and horns and axle boxes are made , they are fitted and locked in neutral position , a flat bar is clamped on , using bobbins in in axle boxes I drill pilot holes in the bar and that becomes a JIG for the couping rods . 2- To make the rods , I cut suitable flat bars to required sizes and normalize . 3-In this case there are three axles and therefore a knuckle , I mark and pilot drill the front rod rear hole and the hole for the knuckle , likewise I mark and pilot drill the front hole for the rear rod then drill to size on the lathe as seen on photo to ensure the hole is square to the rod . 4- Machine the ends tongue and fork and fit temporary pin in the knuckle . 5- bolt the rod coupling assembly to the JIG and pilot drill the front and rear holes , dismantle and complete drilling on the lathe . 6- Ditto for the connecting rods ( made to dimensions on the plan ) . 7- Make and fit bushes . 8-While the flats are still intact and easy to hold , I machine the sides and the flutes .. 9- mark and machine to shape , I use linisher to remove machining marks , a little polish ( I don't have too much patience ) Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jan 1, 2011 4:09:02 GMT
The rods , I am sorry the picture is not good . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jan 1, 2011 4:10:36 GMT
coupling rods fitted to the engine .Connecting rods wrapped and stored for time being . Attachments:
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Post by jgb7573 on Jan 1, 2011 10:01:40 GMT
Thanks Shawki.
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