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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Feb 26, 2011 9:21:06 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2011 20:31:24 GMT
Thanks Shawki, looks like a good method to me. I'll start working on the various pieces needed to hold the job soon.
Many thanks
Pete
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 18, 2011 8:24:49 GMT
As I mentioned before I have started on the cylinders . My cylinders are of gunmetal , the first step is to establish a datum surface to work all other surfaces from . after studying the castings for a while I decided to start with the flange which appeared to be reasonably right .After cleaning with a file , I mounted the cylinder in a machine vice picture -1 and took a light cut on the top and cleaned the F&R faces with a large end mil to enable me to clamp it upside down in the same vice , then I clamped the cylinder as in picture -2 and machined the valve surface , then the sides and flanges at the same setup as in picture -3 . Picture four shows this task complete , I have to do the second cylinder , may be Tomorrow God willing ;D . There is a lot more to do to the cylinder block , the boring and R&F faces which will be done between centres in the lathe , the valve ports and the steam holes from inlet valves to the bore , the rest are basic practices . There are machining marks on the valve face but they will be removed using 600 wet & dry on surface plate after all jobs are finished Read more: modeleng.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=5073&page=7#ixzz1GwAzNayOAttachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 18, 2011 8:25:44 GMT
Picture - 2 Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 18, 2011 8:26:28 GMT
Picture -3 Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 18, 2011 8:27:10 GMT
Picture -4 Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2011 11:03:27 GMT
Great pictures Shawki, I'll be watching this bit very closely as guidance for when I reach this stage. Glad you got the pictures working.. Pete
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 27, 2011 8:07:16 GMT
A little progress . the outside of the flanges are machined , the mounting holes in flanges has been transfered from frames and drilled to take 4BA bolts , the cylinders has been temporary mounted to check for holes alignment and then removed . The next job is to mount on lathe (set up ) to face the rear cylinder face and bore between centres , I will post that information when I do that soon hopefully . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 27, 2011 8:08:58 GMT
Transferring holes from frames to cylinders. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 27, 2011 8:14:21 GMT
Checking cylinder fit to frame . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 31, 2011 9:12:28 GMT
Boring the cylinders As seen in the following pictures - 1- setting up the cylinder between centres at the correct hight and the centre of the bore parallel and in centre line of the cylinder . 2- face the rear face using a fly cutter in 4 jaw chuck . 3- boring the cylinder block . I use two bars , one for the last cut so that both cylinders are the same . 4- Resetting the cylinder to face the front face of the cylinder 5- setting up in the mill to cut valve ports . The next step will be the critical drilling of the diagonal passages between the cylinder bore and inlet valve ports. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 31, 2011 9:13:45 GMT
Facing the rear face. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 31, 2011 9:15:25 GMT
Boring the cylinder . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 31, 2011 9:17:11 GMT
Setting up to face the front face. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 31, 2011 9:18:25 GMT
Milling valve ports Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 31, 2011 9:20:34 GMT
above steps completed . Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2011 8:09:47 GMT
Hi Shawki I'm following this closely so I can learn well in advance for my own cylinders. One question, in picture one your setting the cylinder up on the lathe for both height and being parallel to the headstock/tailstock axis. Do you have any tips for what is probably the most critical stage in achieving this? Nice work btw.. Pete
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Apr 1, 2011 8:34:25 GMT
Hi Shawki, A great update and a some great pictures - please keep them coming. Smifffy
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 2, 2011 7:56:27 GMT
Good question Pete, its easier to do than to explain , however I will try - Every cylinder block is different in design and therefore one needs different method to set it up . In this case the cylinder bore and centre line of the valve face are in line with centre line of the block , the centre line of the bore is 2.125" from cylinder valve face , I placed the cylinder on the plate as in the picture , valve face down and shim it to line the cylinder bore centre line with lathe centre height , that solve one dimension , to set it parallel I fit a ground rod between centres as seen, using parallel bars to clamp valve face side to the rod between centres , now I clamp the cylinder block ( bolt down as seen ) to the plate , remove all bars and clamps , face the rear face then using the set up method without moving the cylinder block , measuring the distance between the valve face side and bore centre and lock the carriage , bore cylinder as seen in the picture . Set the cylinder with front face facing four jaw chuck and face the front face , ( accuracy for this face is important but not critical like the rear face ) . I hope this is not jumbo mumbo . ;D
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Post by drjohn on Apr 2, 2011 8:06:09 GMT
Hi Shawki
I am not in anyway criticising your method, but for the others, if they go to page 16 in the Simplex section of my site, they can see an alternative way of skinning this cat.
DJ
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