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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 2, 2011 9:05:13 GMT
DJ , I fully agree ,using 4 jaw chuck has always been one of the popular methods to do the job if the four jaw chuck is man enough to hold the cylinder block and have good boring bar .
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2011 9:12:48 GMT
Thanks Shawki and DJ for the info, I think the cylinder stage is the one that concerns me most especially Shen considering the ridiculous cost of said items, a mistake here is not an option. Thanks for the help guys..
Pete
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 4, 2011 9:10:30 GMT
I just want to add one more point on DJ comment , Simplex cylinder block don't have flanges therefore it is easier to machine in 4 jaw chuck , with this animal which have mounting flanges top , bottom ,front and back makes it very difficult to hold in small 4 jaw chuck and almost impossible to face the the ends , if you study the casting you will discover what I mean and it is good practice to face the rear end and bore the cylinder at the same set up to ensure the rear face is 100% perpendicular to the bore , any error here could have serious consequences . My point is each cylinder block is different and should be handled in a way to suit it . No criticism to machining in 4 jaw chuck at all , I have done this myself with small cylinders .
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 7, 2011 9:19:33 GMT
I am back again , now this is for drilling the holes from the ends of cylinder bore to inlet valve ports . On this engine there is four 5/32 holes on each side , two in the centre and two further apart meet at the corners of the inlet ports, this means I have to do two set ups as the angle of the hole will be different for the outer holes but the process is the same . I mark the point of starting the hole in the cylinder bore and the point it meet the inlet port , then I draw a line on the outside of the block between the two points .I now place the cylinder block in an angle vice , put the vice on surface plate , using a square making the line perpendicular to the surface , lock the vice . I only need to do this on one side then its only matter of turning the block around and the set up should be OK . I then put the vice on the drill /mill machine , face little flat surface , centre drill then drill through and hope for the best . repeat on all sides , rest for the other two holes and repeat the same . All went as planned , thank God . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 7, 2011 9:21:15 GMT
Second photo Attachments:
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Post by jgb7573 on Apr 7, 2011 9:34:59 GMT
Hi Shawki, I reckon that's one of the most nerve-wracking jobs. It's all on the slantendicular! Helps no end to have the angle vice though. John
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Post by drjohn on Apr 7, 2011 13:21:07 GMT
Hi Shawki That looks like a slot drill you're using - good idea in gunmetal or bronze as it doesn't grab at the end like a twist drill - one of the great advantages of cast iron - no grab DJ
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 8, 2011 9:45:08 GMT
John , I have angle drill but it was too small for the job so I had to borrow this from anther club member . this is one of the benefits of being in a club.
DJ , no, it is an end mill , I use it to cut a small flat surface then I used centre drill and normal drills . The drill can't grab because the vice is secured and I used the winding down handle on drill/mill machine and NOT hand pulled .I also step drilled .
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 13, 2011 8:23:05 GMT
A few jobs before I continue with other cylinder parts , the exhaust manifold is made and holes for cylinder joint and blast pipe in smoke box are transfered and the manifold completed . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 13, 2011 8:24:06 GMT
Second photo Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 13, 2011 8:27:17 GMT
Oil fittings and tubes from lubricator to cylinder . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 13, 2011 8:28:35 GMT
Drain codcks and controls . Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2011 21:55:04 GMT
Looking good Shawki, I'm taking notes... Pete
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 20, 2011 9:33:18 GMT
Little progress , the valve chests and piston and rod assemblies are made as seen here . I will be going to the convention on Saturday , and not much work will be done during Easter holidays , after that I will start on other parts of the cylinders not to mention all the holes and threads for studs , miles of them . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 20, 2011 9:34:10 GMT
Second photo Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 5, 2011 10:13:39 GMT
I have made valves,valve buckles and valve rods as seen here , next I will do all the holes,threads ,studs etc , then I will polish working surfaces using wet/dry on a surface plate , then is assembly /timing and test on air . until then this will be my last photo on this project . This may take some time . Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2011 10:41:27 GMT
Interesting stuff Shawki , I bet your looking forward to getting the loco running on air. Great work
Pete
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peteh
Statesman
Still making mistakes!
Posts: 760
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Post by peteh on May 6, 2011 3:09:58 GMT
Finally found time to look through this thread - Awesome work sir.
Pete
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 6, 2011 10:07:15 GMT
Thanks guys , Pete no matter how many you build still its interesting to see it working . ;D However I am in no rush , as soon as it is steamed and OK it will go idle next to others and wait for a long time for the next run . ;D .
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 23, 2011 9:42:08 GMT
I have installed the cylinders on the engine ,timed the valves and run it on air , the engine is tight but it runs nicely on 35 - 40 psi air pressure in forward and reverse and control speed at fixed pressure with reverser . next is to assemble all the rest of parts and finish needed parts such as tubes and minor bits and pieces , touch up paint , oil and wait for a steaming test and trial run . Attachments:
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