tim
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 236
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Post by tim on Feb 14, 2014 9:41:37 GMT
Nice work Ben, I've been doing the rounds on here and just read through your thread, it looks very impressive, and my hat comes off to you for choosing 316 for your buffers, that $%^* is the mother off all stainless. Even on heavy industrial machinery where I work everything is slowed right down for 316 and even then it often bites back. And now it's made me want to make mine from stainless aswell!! Tim.
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,812
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V2
Feb 14, 2014 10:47:12 GMT
Post by uuu on Feb 14, 2014 10:47:12 GMT
I used stainless for Jessie. But it was lovely stuff, so I suspect it was 303.
Wilf.
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V2
Feb 14, 2014 12:48:37 GMT
Post by ejparrott on Feb 14, 2014 12:48:37 GMT
If 316 is causing you grief then you really need to look at your tooling and machines, its no problem to cut at all! 150m/min, .2mm/rev feed for roughing, 2mm depth of cut should be no issue for a decent machine with an insert tool.
Try 400-series stainless, they're worse....
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tim
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 236
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V2
Feb 14, 2014 22:28:13 GMT
Post by tim on Feb 14, 2014 22:28:13 GMT
It isn't causing us grief nor is there anything wrong with our machinery/tooling or know how, I was merely remarking that 316 commands a lot more respect than lesser stainless such as 303 (which is relatively free cutting,) and therefore making 316 far more challenging on smaller/hobby machines. 2mm cuts are no issue on a £75,0000 machine but you take nothing for granted on harder materials. Try super duplex, we do a lot of it.
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Feb 17, 2014 7:21:55 GMT
Post by ejparrott on Feb 17, 2014 7:21:55 GMT
3M products are available from a lot of outlets but they are expensive. We recently source alternative manufacturer's of identical products and made quite a financial saving, so once you've got the name of the product you're after, use google to do a bit of research.
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Feb 17, 2014 7:45:13 GMT
Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 7:45:13 GMT
Sorry Ben... seeing Ed's reply reminded me that I hadn't yet answered your question....yes 3M can be more expensive but then IMHO they can not be equalled...we use them a lot in the film industry to get a fine finish and when ever a supplier tries to give us a cheaper alternative it soon gets changed or we go to another supplier... the boys like it ... I found recently that Cromwell tools stock them, yes they are a little pricey if buying a box ( around £23) but they also sell them as single pads ( less than £1.50) don't be put off with the reference 'for wood'... they are great on metal. www.cromwell.co.uk/3m-abrasives/finishing-polishing/hand-finishing-abrasives/Pete
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Feb 17, 2014 13:55:31 GMT
Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 13:55:31 GMT
Hi Ben
For me it depends on the parts in question.. the tender chassis for example I took off all suspension and brake parts so anything that's a moving part before painting, buffers too. You need to consider whether you can get both a good even coat of paint over the parts and also without flooding other parts near by. Take as much off as possible to get the best finish, also you'll need the parts to be separate for doing the lining especially if your painting your V2 in LNER livery.
Pete
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Feb 17, 2014 16:58:04 GMT
Post by ejparrott on Feb 17, 2014 16:58:04 GMT
I'm going to paint the chassis of my engine with the frames, bufferbeams, footplate support angles, all stretchers and the horns all assembled, probably outside motion brackets too. Jury's still out on the brake hanger pivots, but basically if it's rivetted or fitted bolt-ed on, it'll be done before painting. The brake shaft bearings will go on seperatly afterwards, already painted as seperate items, likewise other odd bits and pieces.
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Feb 18, 2014 12:51:27 GMT
Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2014 12:51:27 GMT
Hi Ben
I'm no expert on brass types but I do know that Malcolm of Model Engineers Laser uses half hard brass for his laser cut parts be it tender body or loco cabs etc. Therefore I'd say do the same, it's less prone to dents which can happen on large items such as tender sides if knocked.
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2014 19:16:31 GMT
Good thinking Batman! Cheers!
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V2
Feb 19, 2014 13:55:04 GMT
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2014 13:55:04 GMT
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh, Sigh !!-----------how wondrous it looks.....And the LMS were at it too, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Feb 19, 2014 17:41:30 GMT
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2014 17:41:30 GMT
now that's strange... the picture looks like a 2-8-0, whereas the drawing is a 2-6-0...did they modify it or am I missing something here, not knowing much about LMS stock myself? The main wheels are certainly a lot closer in the picture?
Pete
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Feb 19, 2014 18:41:39 GMT
Post by fostergp6nhp on Feb 19, 2014 18:41:39 GMT
The drawing is the class 5 2-6-0 and the photo is an 8F, in fact its ex works and new from the look of it and being delivered as the con rod and eccentric rod are off. Complete with GWR safety valve cover and copper capped chimney.
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Feb 19, 2014 19:02:35 GMT
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2014 19:02:35 GMT
Hello all---------- Yes, well spotted FOSTER, a new LMS 8F it certainly is, BUT there is more than meets the eye on this one !!---------------------------To find out, place your arrowhead on the photo and RIGHT clik......... Select "search Google for this image" and LEFT click.............Select "GWR- Gloucestershire's main line Heritage Railway,- Swindon 8F" and LEFT clik............Now read ALL the information shown to you and the answer will be revealed !!.......
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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V2
Feb 20, 2014 0:44:45 GMT
Post by jma1009 on Feb 20, 2014 0:44:45 GMT
hi ben, the 3/4s view pic is the one i remember of the GWR chimney-ed V2. kenneth cook was a very clever chap and i personally think would have been a better GWR CME than hawksworth! cheers, julian
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Feb 28, 2014 20:19:23 GMT
Post by vulcanbomber on Feb 28, 2014 20:19:23 GMT
May I suggest that when wobbling something central about that you wobble the 2 edges your working in the middle of, this will stop you getting errors like the one you've got. Nicely done however.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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V2
Feb 28, 2014 22:31:02 GMT
Post by jma1009 on Feb 28, 2014 22:31:02 GMT
hi ben, very nice work! no one will ever see the inside of the drag beam! it wouldnt matter if if the slot was considerably oversize. all it needs to do is locate the drawbar pin. cheers, julian
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Mar 2, 2014 8:50:38 GMT
Post by ejparrott on Mar 2, 2014 8:50:38 GMT
Same trick can be used for large rings that you can't swing a clock round on the mill. We regularly 'over-load' our machines at work, and if you can't get the head over the middle to swing a clock over it you use a probe on each side and split the difference - it works as long as you only move X and Z and not Y. Its also more accurate than a clock on 2' of silver-steel that wobbles around as you try to clock the ring.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:05:08 GMT
Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2014 19:05:08 GMT
Did no one get the answer to the LMS 8F / 2-6-0 question with the GWR safety bonnet then ....re-visit and have a go...You'll be surprised.
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Mar 2, 2014 20:20:14 GMT
Post by Roger on Mar 2, 2014 20:20:14 GMT
Wobblers are great for quick setting up but they all suffer from the problem you describe to varying degrees because they rely on the friction touching the job overcoming the friction in the joint. I doubt if you can get better than 10-20microns accuracy with one of those. If it's something fussy, I still use the wobbler but shine a torch behind it and watch the gap disappear. I reckon you can get it a lot closer that way. I like the idea of touching both sides too, that takes into account the fact that the absolute size might not be right anyway.
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