monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 6, 2014 19:40:00 GMT
Just filled up the sight glasses with glycerine, no problems to report. Still finding it hard to refill the tank up with oil; should this be done during steam? I have 10m of track, so if I can find a window in the weather, should get another play with her this weekend. Hopefully I will be able to film with better quality Marc
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Nov 6, 2014 22:53:53 GMT
hi marc, ive refilled mine in steam (during a 3 day bank holiday steam up) but not for the faint hearted and very tricky to do so please fill up your displacement tank when 'cold' cheers, julian
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2014 23:11:53 GMT
Same on the GWR fullsize ones....DO REMEMBER to SHUT OFF THE STEAM COILS FIRST !!!!-----------run-off residual pressure via the drain cock and open the filler cap---SLOWLY.....Have a look at this >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> www.5637.co.uk/lubrication.htm ............
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 7, 2014 5:24:38 GMT
Ok, I was just wondering if it woud be easier. When I fill my tank up at the moment, hardly any of it goes it as the rest come out of the filler cap with bubbles. Marc
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,816
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Post by uuu on Nov 7, 2014 17:34:32 GMT
You might need another oil can with a thin spout - so you can deliver the oil into the body of the tank and avoid the oil going in fighting with the air coming out.
Wilf
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Post by andyhigham on Nov 7, 2014 17:53:44 GMT
The first incarnation of my hydrostatic lubricator had a really tiny tank 20mm dia x 25mm high. It was no problem to fill through the 1/8 BSP plug. The new tank is 30mm dia x 90mm high. To re fill whilst the engine is in steam, shut off the oil supply valve and the steam supply valve. If you have a drain valve you can now open this, if it is a drain plug pour some water over the tank to cool it then remove the plug, then remove the filler cap, the water should drain out, when oil starts to drain close the drain valve/replace the drain plug. Fill using an oil can with a thin tube instead of the standard spout. its easier of you hold the oil can over the chimney for a couple of minutes to thin the oil
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2014 13:49:31 GMT
Fill it like full size, do it cold and pour oil in as water drains out, thus no air in tank. Worry about refilling when hot when you have mastered it cold!
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 8, 2014 18:09:53 GMT
No no, i was just asking if it would be easier hot because the oil would flow easier maybe... my aim is simplicity!! Marc
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2014 19:48:44 GMT
Hi BEN ------------ 6, 7, 8, 9 ,10 !!
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 9, 2014 19:54:14 GMT
drive.google.com/file/d/0B347TLiQDISLR2VFMkdXWDh1SVU/view?usp=sharingHere is a video of my steam up on Saturday. I didn't use the injectors for two reasons; first of all it didn't pick up nicely so it wasn't really working and since the line was so short, I just put the axle pump on at full all the time, and the water level stayed at 50%, so it's the first time that I didn't get in a panic because of lack of water... a sucess some may say. I was showing my granfather who also is starting in live steam; he is currently building a steam launch of his own design. As you can see, it was his first drive so he was that gentle on the regulator! Now to the lubricator; apparently I must have done something wrong... at first air bubble came out; I think this is normal but then when oil did come it did not float straight to the top. On one sight glass, the oil clung to the side of the glass, but eventually got to the top and to the pipe. The other one, I remember at first I got the same but now all is well. I did get a ring of oil in the chimney, so I think they were working, just the sight glasses weren't. I'm wondering whether its because i'm only using glycerine as apposed to the other solution and i'm not used to it, or either most likely I put too much in or didn't assemble everything tight enough. Does anyone ( i.e Julian ) have any answers and solutions? After cheking today, the sight glass is 1/4 full with oil again... is this normal? I also have finally started building my 10V.... great to finally get to know my machines and uses them. I started by machining the base plate and flywheel. I know its best to work from the bottom but since but grandfather was around and he is an engineer by profession, I wanted to use my lathe and turn something. Thank you for your help Cheers Marc
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Post by andyhigham on Nov 9, 2014 21:15:00 GMT
I have never had a problem with lubricator sight glasses. I have always used my top secret concoction which I will share with you. Tap water
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 9, 2014 21:20:52 GMT
Wow, I guess that could work!!
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Nov 9, 2014 21:33:33 GMT
andy, do please try glycerine instead of ordinary tap water in the sight glass! many of us including famous experts such as the late roy amesbury have carried out all sorts of experiments, and glycerine comes out tops! cheers, julian
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 9, 2014 21:39:48 GMT
Any thoughts on my problems? Marc
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Nov 9, 2014 23:32:03 GMT
hi marc,
if you have followed accurately the instructions i provided re what to do after a steam up re closing down the hydrostatic lubricator system it is impossible for what you describe to happen ie just one of the 2 sight glasses to fill up partly with oil. in my experience this only happens if the system isnt closed down properly, and the oil isnt 'blobbing' up through the sight glass jet but is coming from the delivery pipe to the cylinder towards the sight glass at the upper connection. this indicates the valves on the system are either not shut tight or leak when closed. i test my assemblies carefully before installing (and i hope make them to quite a high standard)- unfortunately with a secondhand loco you are at the mercy of the standard of the fittings either purchased or made by the original builder. apart from the hydrosatic lubricators made by gordon chiverton i wouldnt recommend any of the current commercial articles, as those that ive examined havent come up to what i would expect.
if it's any consolation, mechanical lubricators made by others or commercially are more prone to faults in my experience.
i do not approve of people wearing gloves when driving a miniature loco!
cheers, julian
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 12, 2014 19:54:43 GMT
Julian, I doubt the lubricators are the problem, they were made by a hydrostatic specialist in South Africa; everyone seems to use his lubricators, all scales so I think the problem must be down to me. The steam valve leaks when opened, but not when closed. I think it's time for another test this weekend if the weather is kind, making sure I paid a lot attention to lubricators. . I must get my injector working too, reliably. I really want to get a detailed video up of my steam up, preparation, firing, running and cleaning for you all to give me constructive critiscm.
Cheers Marc
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Nov 22, 2014 23:35:41 GMT
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Dec 14, 2014 15:29:47 GMT
Good News! Looks like the magic of christmas works on steam locos too! I did my final steam up today of 2014 and the last steam up on only 10m, next time I should have 50 hopefully. I sprayed spme WD40 up the injector a few mins before lighting the fire, and it worked great, very little overflow water. The lubricator also worked well. Marc
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Post by Roger on Dec 14, 2014 16:41:43 GMT
There's nothing else for it, the line needs to be extended through the door and into the house...
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Feb 15, 2015 19:40:09 GMT
Hello all I have just started preparing my simplex for the new season. After a long debate and a chat with the builder, I am going to leave the superheater off. Work has started today by cleaning the workshop and resealing the blastpipe with some silicon. I also managed to fix my broken smokebox hinge door. Next up is sanding the smokebox down, and masking up the simplex. I'm going to spray the smokebox and then spray the bufferbeams red. Do you think i can get away by just de-greasing for the buffer beams and then spraying directly?
After that I will re-fit the lubricator and clean injector. Then , as Julian recommended I am going to find/build a water tank for my driving coach, along with a filter and better tap. Finally to finish it off hopefully I will be able to get some decals for the tanks ( NCB or BR).
Cheers Marc
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