monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Mar 24, 2015 21:03:30 GMT
I do have a question though, does anybody have anytips in removing broken threads? I have not been able to remove the clack valve ( draincock) as of yet to remove the broken thread in the cylinder to see the dimensions of it. Cheers Marc
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Mar 24, 2015 21:11:59 GMT
hi marc, you need the end of triangular file that fits perfectly and right depth with a tap with a hammer, then the screwed in portion can be removed (hopefully!) cheers, julian
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Mar 25, 2015 5:23:55 GMT
HI Julian Thanks for the tip, i'll try this afternoon. My NCB decals have just been sent from thr UK, only a matter of time now before it becomes loco no 88. Marc
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Mar 25, 2015 20:12:32 GMT
Julian, thanks for the idea! It worked perfectly, no fuss. Since its not a critical component, I'm going to try and silver solder it together Marc
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Mar 25, 2015 20:17:17 GMT
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 26, 2015 7:57:12 GMT
There are tools called easy out to remove broken studs and the likes . Basically is a tapered left hand spiral groove with a square end to hold and turn , one must drill the correct size hole which is stamped on the tool and unscrew the thread , its easier to do than to explain .
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 26, 2015 8:12:00 GMT
There are tools called easy out to remove broken studs and the likes . Basically is a tapered left hand spiral groove with a square end to hold and turn , one must drill the correct size hole which is stamped on the tool and unscrew the thread , its easier to do than to explain . Shawki, I'm pleased that you can use them because I have never had any success with those things! John
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2015 9:33:20 GMT
Another way is to get yourself a set of Torx bits. Find one a bit bigger than the diameter of the hole in your broken fitting, tap it in with a hammer, and then unscrew (hopefully!)
John
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on May 18, 2015 6:47:33 GMT
After lots of work and mods to wagons, my simplex had a great day out yesterday at an annual steam festival in Valence. I managed to repair the draincocks by soldering it. Next outing will be the international steam festival at Swiss Vapeur Park. Here is a link of the footage from yesterday. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftGa2RNjgCQ
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Post by ilvaporista on May 18, 2015 9:48:04 GMT
Hi Marc, Nice to see you and the Simplex having fun. You picked the same day as our festival in Milan! www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7TVVf7_Ru8There is only a short bit at the end on the 5 and 7 1/4" circuit. Sergio is driving the Bayard and I am driving the Waldenberg I am not sure that I can make the SVP festival as two of our brood are having final year exams right during that week. I think chances of a free pass may be limited... Let me know if you need anything bringing back from the UK as I should be at the Guildford Rally in July. Adrian
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on May 20, 2015 4:58:24 GMT
Thanks for the kind offer Adrian! I'll be in the UK almost all of July , so it should be fine but thanks anyway. Regarding my simplex: having a sucessful weekend at SVP crucially depends on my injector. When it works, everything is so relaxing and I can enjoy the ride. When I use my axle pump, I can never really keep up the pressure, which at SVP and a 500m long gradient, can be extremely embarassing and costly, as I experienced last time! The injector worked perfectly on last Sunday, apart from the last hour ( I ran apx 5 hours). The water would not pick up. I sprayed WD 40 in the injector which is what I use to make sure it stays clean, but even after that it still didn't pick up. The water supply was the same as before and pressure at the time was always between 60-90 psi. The only thing that was different was that the water level in the boiler was quite low, I could barely see water ( which I know is not a good place to be ofc !) . My question is : Could that have been the reason why it wasn't working, a too low water level in boiler? or Could it have been that the injector ( not the water since its an external supply) was too hot after 4 hours running? Any suggestions will be much appreciated! Cheers Marc
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on May 20, 2015 7:10:26 GMT
hi marc,
i am pleased you had a good run at Valence.
re your injector...
have you now fitted a proper filter on the water supply side?
a low boiler water level will not affect an injector.
there are only a few things that normally affect an injector that works from not working
1. not enough water in the tanks or other water supply container
2. the above water getting above 46 degrees celcius (incidentally how do you know that the water in the water container in your driving truck hadnt warmed up?)
3. muck getting into the injector via the water supply (or via the steam valve if priming has occured)
4. blocked water filter
5. steam boiler pressure too high or too low for the range of the injector fitted.
there is a lot to be said for noting carefully what happens when you say the injector didnt work. you can tell an awful lot by what happens via the overflow. simply saying 'it doesnt work' isnt very helpful in diagnosing a fault!
if you re-fitted the superheater you will find the loco's performance to be considerably improved with also less water and coal consumption. i noticed your exhaust was very wet and the loco covered in drops of water.
a small observation from your youtube clip - try and keep the firehole door closed in between adding fuel when lighting up!
cheers, julian
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on May 20, 2015 7:28:04 GMT
Hi Marc,
I use my axle pump on the move as I can't see the injector and can't tell if it is picking up unless I lean over.
I close the by-pass for a count of 10, open it, run for a count of 20 and then close for 10 again. I find this is not so dramatic in terms of dropping the pressure and it works very well for me in short bursts. I don't let the glass go below 50% so am feeding the boiler quite often in this way.
Until I am settled on a new track I am not afraid to use the blower to keep the pressure up. When you find your rhythm, things settle down and the loco will make steam I am sure.
Pete.
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on May 20, 2015 8:32:24 GMT
Julian, thank you for your reply. The were water drops, however I didn't accidently spray the loco with water due to a failing hose but also over-filled the boiler accidentally. This could be the reason I guess. As I said, the water did not pick up so steam and water was coming out of the overflow. I will dismantled the injector and soak it in acid in the coming days. At one point though, strangely, there was steam coming out of the overflow without the injector steam valve being open. This stopped after a while, but I'm guessing this may be the symptoms of priming putting muck into the injector, I would love to hear what your analysis is.
After looking at the superheater, I think I am going to re-fit it. To seal it, can I just use silicon seleant or do I need a gasket? Chees Marc
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on May 20, 2015 8:33:57 GMT
Thanks for that advice Pete, I will defintely try it! Cheers Marc
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on May 20, 2015 14:37:34 GMT
Julian, thank you for your reply. The were water drops, however I didn't accidently spray the loco with water due to a failing hose but also over-filled the boiler accidentally. This could be the reason I guess. As I said, the water did not pick up so steam and water was coming out of the overflow. I will dismantled the injector and soak it in acid in the coming days. At one point though, strangely, there was steam coming out of the overflow without the injector steam valve being open. This stopped after a while, but I'm guessing this may be the symptoms of priming putting muck into the injector, I would love to hear what your analysis is. After looking at the superheater, I think I am going to re-fit it. To seal it, can I just use silicon seleant or do I need a gasket? Chees Marc This must either be the steam valve or the clack valve leaking. Would be worth taking the ball out of the clack and giving it a clean or replace it. My clack for the axle pump was leaking and a guy showed me a trick with a punch and light hammer - a quick tap and it seemed to re-seat itself and worked fine for the rest of the day. Have you tried spraying cold water on the injector to cool it down? This often gets them working again. You can spray it with water whilst it is filling the boiler. Leave the water supply on to keep it cool whilst running.
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Post by andyhigham on May 20, 2015 15:05:14 GMT
A leaking steam valve stopped the injector working on Chattox. My first and only injector failure in over 20 years
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on May 21, 2015 6:48:54 GMT
The strange thing is that the leak was only apparant for maybe 2 minutes, which means that it is probably the clack no? Regarding the superheater, what is the best material to use to seal it? A gasket or silicon or something else? I must add a filter too. Is a fuel pump filter for old motorbikes good? or will it resist the flow of the water too much? Sorry for all the questions Marc
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Post by ilvaporista on May 21, 2015 7:25:22 GMT
Hi Marc,
Sometimes the water supply is not so clean and you can get muck from there that will cause a valve or clack to leak and then clear itself. Make sure you have filters around the pick up in the tanks. Where rainwater is collected and used as a supply I find it is always best to filter. One item that is very useful is a lady's stocking (very fine mesh type) held by rubber band over the end of the watering can. More fun is getting it off the leg in the first place but that is another story.... Otherwise you can cause lot's of discussion in a small village by going to the chemist and buying female stockings...
In the heat of our summers I find a good tip is to let the water run for 10 seconds before applying steam, it partially cools the injector and helps to pick up. On one loco we have fitted a separate tap from the tank that pours water over the injector body. When the air temperature is 30 - 35 degrees it can be a bit of a juggle to get everything to work.
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on May 21, 2015 8:55:26 GMT
Thank you Adrain for that cheap tip! I'll put one on the top of tank and one at the hose port. Marc
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