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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 18:25:49 GMT
Thanks for the links Roger ... interesting stuff there. That measuring device is not the I saw, which was flat bar. I'll try and ind it again.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 19:06:32 GMT
Tom
I think Jim posted info on the one that he made for Boadicea's rods....you might find it in his build thread....if not i'm sure if he see's this he will point you in the right direction...
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 19:51:38 GMT
Thanks Pete ... my feeble mind seems to recall ...
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 20:58:43 GMT
Got it! First page of the Boadecia thread.
Thanks Pete!
That wee gem will be made soon.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Jim on Nov 10, 2014 21:20:07 GMT
I think this might be what you're thinking of Tom. I made this adjustable eccentric rod as an aid for setting up the valve gear and it proved invaluable. I also made a trammel for determining the centres for the coupling rods but despite being very careful and double checking the distances I still found the need for a couple of .003" eccentric bearings to ease a bind at front and back dead centre. John 'simplyloco' has a very detailed 3.5" Britannia build site here too that is very worth looking at if you haven't already seen it. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/6731/brit-progress Cheers Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2014 22:32:09 GMT
Thanks Jim ... that's the one. I have also bookmarked all of "Brit Progress" ones I could find. I wasn't able to find anything on the frames and axle boxes though.
I have so much reading to do I will never get to actually make anything.
Thanks Again for all the references lads ... I really do appreciate it and I am trying to take it all in.
Oh Ya ... in case I haven't mentioned it ... this is the most complicated thing I have ever worked on. It is a very large elephant to me, but I will take a bite every day.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Jim on Nov 10, 2014 23:30:50 GMT
Thanks Jim ... that's the one. I have also bookmarked all of "Brit Progress" ones I could find. I wasn't able to find anything on the frames and axle boxes though. I have so much reading to do I will never get to actually make anything. Thanks Again for all the references lads ... I really do appreciate it and I am trying to take it all in. Oh Ya ... in case I haven't mentioned it ... this is the most complicated thing I have ever worked on. It is a very large elephant to me, but I will take a bite every day. Cheers Tom Taking a step at a time is the way to go Tom, even just drilling a hole a day is one less to do the next. It's a great hobby where each day you move a bit closer to completing your dream while acquiring new skills as you go. Enjoy the journey. Jim
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Post by chris vine on Nov 11, 2014 0:09:21 GMT
Hi Tom,
Back to the detective bit for you on your axle boxes wobbling problem.
I think that if, as you suggest the boxes are bored crooked, then they won't wobble at all, but maybe cause a bit of stiffness, but even stiffness. It takes a bit of working out!
However if they are wobbling, the axle may be bent/not machined true or maybe something else, eg coupling rod, is pushing things around.
Chris.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2014 10:55:55 GMT
Hi Chris,
You are right and that tightness still bothers me so I am have a very experienced engine builder coming for a visit tomorrow and that is the first thing I am going to have him look at. Then, if those wheels need to come off, he has the equipment to do it with.
I have started a boring, but fun chore all the same. I am making the 48 nuts for the horn block bolts, as the ones that are there are of three different varieties. I do a few at a time, then walk away and do something else for a bit.
Question of the day ... Horn blocks ... are they painted the same color as the frame, or not painted at all?
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Roger on Nov 11, 2014 11:12:26 GMT
On my GWR locomotive they are painted the same colour as the frame but it's not as simple as that. The section from the rear of the smokebox to the front of the firebox is red so they are painted red there, but the read two are painted black because the rest of the frame is black. By all accounts only the areas that can be seen for inspection underneath were painted Red, the rest was left black. If you have Bronze horns, be sure to use an etch primer else the paint will flake off. That's a mistake I've made on mine.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2014 12:40:06 GMT
Thanks Roger ... etch primer is on the shelf waiting for use. I think I read that a good couple of days of letting the primer dry won't go amiss either.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Roger on Nov 11, 2014 13:01:13 GMT
Hi Tom, I'm no expert when it comes to painting, it's early days for me. I have learned a couple of things though. Yes, leave anything you've painted plenty of time to go really hard between coats. Also don't use cheap masking tape, and certainly don't leave it on any longer than you need to. It's a great destroyer of finished paintwork if you don't have good stuff. I'd ask at a motor spray shop and see what they use. The DIY stuff is rubbish in my opinion.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2014 13:33:18 GMT
Roger, I have destroyed paint jobs on other projects by using the wrong masking tape (A 36" gas powered Atlas Van Lines Special for one) so I get my tape from a mate that works in an auto body shop.
Good News! ... That front set of wheels has really bothered me so I just spent an hour looking at it again. That leading axle has an eccentric on it, I think for the mechanical lubricator. It is set on the axle with three grub screws.
I noticed a wee bit of wobble in that so I undid the grub screws and moved it ever so slightly away from the axle box and problem solved!! No binding at all now.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Roger on Nov 11, 2014 13:55:55 GMT
Excellent! How good it that! This is the problem with all these interconnected things, it's hard to isolate one thing from another. you're well on the way to having this sorted out then, well spotted.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2014 23:05:04 GMT
I am not being idle whilst I wait for ordered supplies to arrive. As stated before, this engine has been sitting in it's current state for 25 years or so and has been subject to moist air at some point. There is some rust and general crud on most of the bright steel parts. I am spending some time getting used to the overall layout, planning a bit of strategy and order of doing things, as well as a lot of this ... Of course, the good one is on the bottom! Cheers Tom
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Post by Jim on Nov 13, 2014 3:47:30 GMT
Very nice work Tom very nice indeed. In a way it's a pity to paint something when it's all nicely finished like that.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2014 10:22:36 GMT
Thanks Jim, It is interesting what you can get with some 220 grit sanding paper stuck onto a flat chunk of granite and just running the item back and forth for a few minutes.
I am mulling over the idea of using gun barrel bluing (which isn't really blue) on these types of items. I am going to try it on a sample piece and see what it looks like.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 12:52:54 GMT
Well, after talking with a friend in the gun smithing business, it looks like I might paint these after all. Still a bunch of time to think about that though.
I am still waiting for supplies to arrive and I have made a bunch of nuts I will need for the frame so I guess I will get on with the cleaning of bits for now.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 14:05:38 GMT
Hi Tom
I did mine via chemical's that I bought from Frost Restoration....some details although not much are in my build thread...end of page 31 to 32
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 15:06:12 GMT
Thanks Pete
That made a very nice job of the brake parts. I am going to check out what I can find locally first. If nothing here, I will have to check chemical import regulations.
Thanks Again ... I must read the rest of that thread.
Cheers
Tom
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