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Post by flyingfox on Nov 14, 2014 8:29:15 GMT
Greetings Dennis, My article "Plastic Magic" will start in the next issue, no 4496, published 28th Nov. If you PM me, I will suggest possible suppliers. Regards Brian (Flying Fox)
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 11, 2014 7:59:40 GMT
Greetings Dennis M, the recycled plastic material available that I have used reacts to hot ash by melting & fusing into a hard surface which resists further attacks. The material I have used does not catch fire. Repeated attacks with hot ash will eventually melt the material, roughly in the same way as wood will burn when some clown drops his fire onto the track. Regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 6, 2014 8:14:54 GMT
Greetings, I have used both types of plastic sleepers for a long time, and I think they work well. I have written an article for ME, which is due to be published before Christmas, which contains much (I hope) useful information. Regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Sept 28, 2014 19:00:19 GMT
Greetings, I have used David as recommended by "tonytrans" above, who also gives a link. his products are excellent & delivery was very quick for me. Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Sept 19, 2014 6:58:49 GMT
Greetings, I have used Loctite 572 for many years. It seals well, and is easily broken if required. Best described as "liquid PTFE". Regards BB
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Post by flyingfox on Aug 21, 2014 16:44:13 GMT
Greetings, I think you need to think about the volume of sales, restricted because of the larger gauge. I think that only about 150 Britannia kits in 5 in gauge, and 25 in 7 1/4 in gauge, were produced in batches of 25 by both companies, over a ten year plus period. I suspect that Aster produce many more than that in gauge 1. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jul 1, 2014 17:01:53 GMT
Greetings, yes you apply the mixture, which comes in two cans, usually mixed in a fixed ratio, hardener to resin, stir well, with wooden/plastic stirrer, and apply with a brush to as clean as possible metal surface. I ususlly rough up the area with course glasspaper to help it grip. Its like runny golden syrup, and gradually goes more & more viscous over its 2 to 4 hr cure, depending on temperature. over painting can be after 24 hrs, and again break the gloss if possible with glasspaper. regards Brian Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jul 1, 2014 7:21:40 GMT
Greetings, I have had problems with tiny leaks in tender tanks that open other leaks when you try to repair them, and have cured the problem by coating the clean tank, after soldering, with epoxy, of a type used in boat finishing. This seals the tiny leak, and has a degree of flexibility on the joint. Also the bare metal acts as a catalyst for the epoxy curing. regards Brian Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jul 1, 2014 7:17:09 GMT
Its looks fine Rob, you should be pleased. did you manage to get clupit rings? Regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 30, 2014 11:29:12 GMT
Hi Rob, tried to look at photos, but your photobucket is password protected. Did you get Clupit rings for piston valves OK? Regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 19, 2014 6:56:49 GMT
Greetings, whilst everyone who commented stresses the importance of removing all trace of lead, contained in the soft solder, the only method that I have seen employed to remove it is careful & through grit blasting, which seems to removes the surface layer in which the Lead has alloyed with the copper. Very messy, and must remove all trace of Lead for silver solder to be successfully reapplied. Regards Brian Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 11, 2014 7:11:22 GMT
Many thanks for all your comments Gentleman, I should have said that this mechanical lubricator is fitted to my A3, which is a much modified Modelworks design, and mechanical lubricators were supplied, and later ditched as NBG, and a new one made, to the Ewings design. Obviously the output is the difficult problem to the system I proposed, but I like the idea of a bypass to limit the amount pumped. If this bypass output were directed back into the oil tank, then the actual amount of oil dispensed could be checked as usual. I think this needs six coats of thinking about. Regards Brian
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 8, 2014 16:52:39 GMT
Greetings, I have been a fan of hydrostatic lubrication for a number of years, but now have a 71/4 gauge A3, and the perceived wisdom is that mechanical lubricators are a must, so I have three pumps in a single, but partitioned tank, the pumps are driven by lever, and a pair of roller clutches help turn this reciprocating motion into circular motion outside the tank, and inside the tank,the circular motion is turned back into reciprocating motion, via a cam, which operates the plunger pump. If the external reciprocating motion could be transmitted to an internal cam, which bears onto the top of the oil pump ram, the need for the two conversions would be eliminated, as would the need for roller clutches. The oil pump ram could be "returned" to it original position with a suitable compression spring, an arrangement which I have seen used in some lubricators. Please tell me if I am making a stupid mistake, or does a design like this already exist, if so, where can I get a copy of the drawing? Regards Brian Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 2, 2014 16:06:34 GMT
Greetings Paul, You need to tell the inspector as much as you can about the boiler, how long have you had it, where did you get it, what where you told when you got it. Answers to these questions may help your inspector understand that it is privately made, or made before 2002. Also, the condition of the boiler may indicate age. Hope this helps Brian
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Post by flyingfox on May 22, 2014 16:58:43 GMT
Greetings, I think this is a 71/4 gauge GER Y14, LNER J15. the wheel spacing & tender cut outs appear to bear this out. Although no miniature drawings exist, I have seen 2 71/4 gauge models, and they both performed well. One was built by the late Peter Dupen, and used patterns made by the late Maurice Furlong (Ex stratford works pattern maker), and winning various awards at the ME show. The other was owned by the late Mike Colliyer, whose son & grandson are both still active model engineers. I understand this loco was sold to a man whose name escapes me, he lived in Ramsbottom & drove on the East Lancs railway. I understand that he was going to market the castings for this loco, but have not heard anything since. The Great Eastern Society might be able to help with drawings. hope this helps. Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on May 5, 2014 7:15:21 GMT
Greetings Dave, I have found that it is vital to cover all previously silversoldered joints completely with fresh flux, when reheating a boiler as you describe. what happens is that the solder remelts, at a slightly higher temperature due to alloying with some copper from the boiler, but cracks on cooling in air, due to local oxide formation. If you have refluxed all joints in the area affected when reheating, then the remelted joints will cool without cracking under the protection of the flux. Try to avoid too high a temperature, since the cadmium will tend to boil off affecting the joint.
Hope this helps.
regards
Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Mar 4, 2014 8:08:40 GMT
Greetings, I would definitely visit the Echills Wood railway, not far from the show, and well worth a visit during weekend running. They have two excellent websites. Also the National Railway Museum is not too far away & well worth a visit. My American friend Joe, says the UK is one big train set. Regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jan 1, 2014 15:06:46 GMT
Now that I have completed the tender, I have been able to get the chassis running evenly on air, having fitted glass filled PTFE piston valves. so it was time for a test trial of the boiler and smokebox on the frames. Still some work to do on the cleading, and a boiler backhead cover sheet to make, but interesting to see. Flying Fox Attachments:
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Post by flyingfox on Dec 22, 2013 18:07:41 GMT
Greetings, you have several options. you could incorporate in the boiler foundation ring two ledges, front & back and have removable sections of grate that come out, with long pliars/tongs, through the firebox door, or you could have the grate mounted from the ashpan, with a removable/hindged section to drop the fire, this is how my 71/4 gauge A3 works, or you could have supports in the ashpan for removable grate sections as per the first option. Hope this helps. regards Brian
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 23, 2013 15:22:49 GMT
Greetings, and many thanks for the answer to my problem RGR 60130. It seems that the rear part of the tunnel was flat roofed. I had a photo of that & thought it to be incorrect. Now to finish the loco. regards Flying Fox
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