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Post by flyingfox on Nov 23, 2013 8:24:34 GMT
Greetings, whilst on the subject of A3 / A4 tenders, I have tried hard to find a picture which shows the top of the rear part of the tender on a corridor version. The only one that I could see into at the Great Gathering, was a flat plate, which I am sure is not correct. I want to know the shape of the round internal corridor as it turns at right angles to and joins the corridor connection. I am sure it should be the same section as that running down the right hand tender side, but want to get the corridor end shape right. I am part way through converting a 71/4 gauge Modelworks tender into a corridor tender for "Sir Nigel", having already got "Flying Fox" running. Regards Brian
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 23, 2013 8:12:09 GMT
Greetings, I find Loctite 572 easy to use, the joints break open easily for maintenance, and it seals well. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Oct 29, 2013 8:03:42 GMT
greetings, I too have built several of these Ewins designed lubricators, and they are very reliable, although, like "Baggo", I use a second inline check valve. I would recommende the use of a scotch crank to drive the ram, rather than using a spring to push the ram up, when I did used a spring, it gave problems. Also, the spring puts more load on the drive mechanism, possibly leading to unreliable operation. All that said, I still prefer hydrostatic lubrication. Regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Oct 19, 2013 18:57:03 GMT
Greetings Terry, a few suggestions, first try soaking (for at least 8 hrs) your charcoal in white spirit, rather than meths. also I find a few small pieces of coal on the fire bars to start with, gives this coal a chance to light from the charcoal, as the heat develops, do not over do this though. Also, keep adding white spirit soaked charcoal periodically, all the time the electric blower is running, and avoid adding any coal until the pressure is well up, say to about 40 psi, when I would remove the electric blower., then add small amounts of coal regularly, and use the hand pump to keep the water level up whilst using the steam blower to raise pressure, and assist the coal fire drawing up. You need a good coal fire in the firebox to maintain pressure & keep the fire door closed as much as possible. Remember what practice makes, and avoid a "crowd" of helpers, try to get one knowledgeable loco driver to help. Re the safety valves, try gently seating them with a drift & a gentle hammer tap, and you may have to alter the springing to get good results. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Oct 15, 2013 6:55:50 GMT
greetings, I prefer Loctite 572, which seals like the very devil, but is easily undone. It is known as pipe sealant, and is best described as liquid PTFE. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Oct 13, 2013 17:39:59 GMT
Greetings, at long last I am back working steadily on this locomotive, and with the loco ready to run on air, here is a photo of the tender, which since it was taken, has had the rear facing window & frames added. I looked everywhere, but could never find the ones sent with the kits, and since speaking to other builders, neither could they, I suspect that winsons never issued them. regards BBAttachments:
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Post by flyingfox on Sept 19, 2013 6:54:44 GMT
Greetings, I have used this company a lot for track & point parts, and they have been very cooperative. I would certainly recommended them, and will use them again. Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Aug 6, 2013 7:11:39 GMT
For sure Leliev is on the right track, by the time you have built the pump, you will have mastered the injector. I would purchase a copy of DAG Brown's injector book, & take the advice for injectors from that. I have built 3 weir type pumps, they are tricky to get working correctly, and I believe they use more steam than the water they put into the boiler. They do look nice though. Regards Foxy
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Post by flyingfox on Jul 19, 2013 17:09:37 GMT
Greetings, as far as I know, the smokebox & door for the 71/4 gauge modelworks A3s were machined from the solid, although the banjo dome is a casting. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jul 16, 2013 7:03:05 GMT
Looking good Rob, I hate mechanical lubricators, Flying Fox has had a problem in the past, and I made a complete new 3 compartment one, which is better, but not as reliable as hydrostatic. Is that a modelworks body, or a Wilkev one? Keep going. regards BB
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 29, 2013 7:06:07 GMT
Greetings, you could try TDP ltd at Wirksworth Tel 01629 820011, Linda is in the sales office & understands the application. their website has a case study of the Norwich track, which used 25 X 50 mm sleepers cut from roofing batten obtained from TDP on 3 meter lengths. The choice of screws is important because the material has metal content, and some honeycomb structure in the center regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Jun 15, 2013 16:49:41 GMT
Greetings, I have just received three 7 1/4 gauge headboards made by David Fieldhouse, and they are very good indeed. These are, I believe, the first headboards that he has made, but they are excellent. David can be reached on name.plates@hotmail.co.uk and he operates in the Northampton area. These are engraved headboards, rather than etched, and can be supplied painted if required. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on May 29, 2013 18:20:40 GMT
Greetings, Further to my previous post re the two 7 1/4 gauge Duchesses that have been sold, I can now advise every one that the John Adams built Duchess owned by the late Don Witheridge will be sold by messers Drewettes at their next sale (sept 2013 ?) together with the rest of his locomotive collection, and the 4 Adams built 6 wheel coaches. regards BB
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Post by flyingfox on May 29, 2013 7:13:05 GMT
greetings, Yes there is confusion as there have been two Duchesses sold, one as part of the Salem collection, which made 140 K plus fees last year, along with a number of other locomotives of various gauges. Drewettes conducted that auction, and this year in their march auction sold a John Adams Duchess for £64K plus fees. This is not the one owned by the late Don Witheridge, which is still at the moment in the Witheridge Family ownership. Hope this removes the confusion. regards BB
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Post by flyingfox on May 27, 2013 18:59:35 GMT
Greetings, I think you will find that this duchess, is one of the four built by renown locomotive builder John Adams, in 7 1/4 gauge, and it sold for £64 K plus fees. Some John Adams 5 in gauge locomotives were in the Salam sale. John Adam, as I understand it, built a total of 34 locomotives, 11 in 7 1/4 gauge, including LNER A3, LNER B1, Stirling single, and black fives. he also built some superb 6 wheel coaches with full interior design. His work was outstanding, and these are true scale models of the highest quality. regards BB
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Post by flyingfox on May 23, 2013 19:33:17 GMT
Hi Rob, 2 piston rings is definitely the way to go. Regards BB Alias "Flying Fox"
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Post by flyingfox on May 23, 2013 7:41:38 GMT
Hi Rob, I resorted to replacing the bolts through the frames where the wheel rim ran past, with countersunk screws. Keep going, they will run well. Regards BB
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Post by flyingfox on May 1, 2013 18:19:47 GMT
Greetings, if you have a clear path across the tender, you could fit one long footrest in a "Rattling fit" drilled hole in each tender frame, and use "R" clips to stop it sliding out. This arrangement is easily removable, and using say 1/2 dia rod, this would be an easy fit in a 13 mm hole. regards Flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Apr 5, 2013 7:08:22 GMT
Congratulations. flying Fox
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Post by flyingfox on Mar 17, 2013 18:40:19 GMT
Greetings, I can only give figures for 7 1/4 gauge Britannia, (25 kits), the A3 (11 kits), and the A4 (13 kits). apart from the kits mentioned in previous posts, there were 2-4-2 baldwin, in 7 1/4 gauge, and some mineral wagond in 7 1/4. regards Flying Fox
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