uuu
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Post by uuu on May 10, 2020 12:49:27 GMT
Do you mask off (and how) areas that you don't want blasted? For example, the bearing faces of the horns. I'm assuming that paint-appropriate methods might just get stripped away.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on May 10, 2020 10:51:19 GMT
I think this style of air intake is supposed to have a cyclone effect: The air enters under the cone, where there are vanes to set off a rotary motion. As the air travels up and turns through 180 degrees to go down the pipe the swirl speed increases as the diameter is reduced. The little slots at the top eject the grit. My series 1 had a similar shaped intake under the bonnet, before a proper filter chamber. Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 10, 2020 7:06:17 GMT
Presumably it comes flat-pack. Could you devise some kind of take-apart option?
Wilf
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Juliet
May 10, 2020 6:52:13 GMT
Post by uuu on May 10, 2020 6:52:13 GMT
I think your vice is a "drill press" vice rather than a milling one. But it's a chunky one. The milling ones have more support for the moving jaw, so it won't twist as easily and, in theory, won't lift. But all but the very best do seem to lift (and they get really heavy), so I wouldn't rush to change if yours if proving to be satisfactory.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on May 9, 2020 18:30:29 GMT
A masterclass.
Wilf
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Juliet
May 9, 2020 16:19:40 GMT
Post by uuu on May 9, 2020 16:19:40 GMT
You might not get the same alignment if you move it - and with only 5 thou to go, you might be better just to carry on. It hasn't moved so far.
Wilf
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Juliet
May 9, 2020 15:38:16 GMT
Post by uuu on May 9, 2020 15:38:16 GMT
Your workholding is clearly effective - see all the swarf. It just looks really scary! It's not nice when things move during milling - I tend to have more clamps - belt and braces. But, as I said - you've made plenty of swarf.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 9, 2020 10:56:26 GMT
I bought one of the ridiculously cheap blaster on supermarket special buy - but haven't tried it yet. It came with aluminium oxide grit, and there's no way of containing the blast. Similar item on ebayWilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on May 6, 2020 19:05:07 GMT
Searching like this produces relevant results: model engineering steering wheel traction engine
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 6, 2020 8:47:14 GMT
They're displaying very nicely for me. Perhaps my browser (MS Edge) is auto-adjusting the width to fit.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 6, 2020 8:14:44 GMT
On boiler pressure: Ken Swan designed Bridget for 120 psi, but noted that careless drivers could "empty her firebox into the surrounding trees. The fireworks display was magnificent, but those watching ran for cover". Jessie is substantially the same loco, but is downrated to 100 psi.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on May 5, 2020 9:16:16 GMT
I have "aluminium" grade inserts, which do have an aggressive top rake. But they're fine for other metals, if used gently. I'm a bit nervous with brass - not usually a problem just taking a shaving off, but any kind of deep cut is asking for the tool to be pulled in.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 3, 2020 9:05:15 GMT
I think the Ugears models are made in Ukraine. I have their "Aviator". The accuracy of fit of the parts is amazing. But the moving bits need fettling to run freely - if you just plug it together it's too stiff. I broke several parts in the assembly, but a few drops of glue fixed some - and there's a free replacement process, too.
Good fun.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 3, 2020 7:58:49 GMT
I'd think to get the torque several rubber band strings in parallel, geared together would be required This is a rubber powered loco: Ugears modelI have one of their models, not this one, and not a loco. Mine uses 15 ordinary rubber bands in three groups of five, geared together. But this would not be enough power for a lap of a track, so some bicycle inner tubes, or something of that size might be required. Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 2, 2020 10:42:04 GMT
It shouldn't shift (famous last words). If you place the solder as Roger suggests, the reheat should not get you up to re-melt the earlier joins. Florist wire can be used to bind the whole thing up, too.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 2, 2020 10:37:55 GMT
I feel a computer controlled solution coming on. If you devised a jumbo 4th axis for your mill, you could turn the loco on it, with the gun in the spindle, applying feed along the X axis, and adjusting Z as required to maintain nozzle distance.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 2, 2020 10:21:38 GMT
Don't attach the angles upside down. I did on mine and then fettled them to fit - couldn't understand why they were not quite right. No one will notice.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 2, 2020 10:15:18 GMT
I like. I was thinking of an unmanned speed contest in my original post, but this sounds a much tougher task. Presumably you'd need to give the loco some ballast for traction - unless you sit on it.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 1, 2020 19:22:56 GMT
I did suggest to the old farts at IWMES that, to encourage the participation of young members, we could hold speed trials on the 5 inch track. Fastest rubber-powered circuit. Electric and internal combustion, too. The idea was not taken up.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on May 1, 2020 19:16:39 GMT
I have some old stair rods which were plated steel. I expect they were made to look more expensive than they were - they have a bronze look. It's a shame that they don't machine very nicely, or I'd be using them for all sorts.
Wilf
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