millman
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Post by millman on Dec 24, 2020 9:31:22 GMT
May I also wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a happy new year and thank everyone who has posted on this forum during this very difficult year, reading people’s posts has helped me through lockdown when I could not visit the club and meet friends. Please all keep safe from this terrible virus wherever you are in the world.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 12, 2020 16:31:20 GMT
My understanding is that only commercially produced boilers must carry the CE mark, any boiler you make yourself at home as an amateur must not be CE marked. If you sell your model or boiler on the only documentation needed is the club hydraulic and steam tests.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 10, 2020 18:14:16 GMT
Last place I worked at we done a lot of silver soldering on stainless steel components for Rolls Royce, we were not allowed to feed any silver solder freehand, it all had to be wound into rings and the correct number of rings placed on the joint, the job was heated with induction heaters and the time taken to make a joint was five to ten seconds. By using the silver solder rings you knew exactly how much was in each joint. I have stood for many hours at a Hardinge winding reels of silver solder into various diameter rings, some of which were ideal for boiler tubes!
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 9, 2020 22:04:58 GMT
I have been trying to roll some 3/8 by 1/16 thick angle this week, I need it rolled to a 12 inch radius, I have annealed it but no matter what I do I get a twist that I cannot get rid of. I have wasted a couple of three foot lengths trying different methods and have now given up on the rolling.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 18, 2020 10:39:59 GMT
Not strictly true, 2d cad is perfectly suitable for CNC, it is only when you get to very complicated shapes that you would need 3D cad. I have been using Autocad R14 for at least the past fifteen years along with Dolphin Cad Cam and have great success, I am now learning 3D since Alibre bought out their Atom 3D package.
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millman
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Post by millman on Sept 19, 2020 9:22:57 GMT
Modelnutz752, I have found them! PM me your email and I will get them copied over the weekend.
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millman
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Post by millman on Sept 17, 2020 18:30:21 GMT
I may have them but need a few days to have a look, the magazines are stored in a rather inaccessible place plus while we are having some decent weather the long suffering wants me out in the garden from dawn to dusk.
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millman
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Post by millman on Sept 5, 2020 19:21:58 GMT
Phil, Mine is in a similar state, rolling chassis with all valve gear bits made but not assembled. I have thought many times about cutting my losses and doing a William, a much better looking engine in my opinion, maybe when Rob Roy is finished I shall build one. The current plan is to get all domestic duties out of the way and really push on with Rob Roy this winter. If I can get it running on air that will be enough to spur me onto finish it.
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millman
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Post by millman on Sept 5, 2020 16:38:36 GMT
Philh1aa, I can beat you on a Rob Roy by 5 years, 1972 was when I started mine at the tender age of 19. As I gained experience earlier bits were scrapped and replaced with better, more accurate pieces. It must be a bit like grandads broom, three new handles and four new heads, I think the eccentrics are most probably the only original pieces. It is my intention to stop faffing around with it and get it finished before it is fifty and I am seventy years old. I would imagine I must have built this loco about five times over, I wish I had kept all the scrapped pieces now but at the time they were chucked in the bin
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millman
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Post by millman on Sept 4, 2020 11:13:29 GMT
As I understand the rules a boiler tester cannot test and certificate his own boilers and from what you say it would seem that he or his business owned the loco before selling it to your club member and therefore he was testing a boiler owned either directly or indirectly by himself, which means that he has a commercial interest in the test result. If it were me I would want a completely independent test or to at least witness the test myself.
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millman
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Post by millman on Aug 26, 2020 15:07:57 GMT
I have used citric acid for many years for copper and brass components and am perfectly satisfied with it, however I use brick cleaner, available from most builders merchants for pickling steel fabrications as it is far better at removing the black crud, works in about an hour and parts come out a dull grey colour, don’t know what’s in it as I keep it outside the workshop and the sun and rain have made the label unreadable.
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millman
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Acid!
Aug 24, 2020 18:09:46 GMT
Post by millman on Aug 24, 2020 18:09:46 GMT
Totally in agreement with you Jo.
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millman
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Post by millman on Aug 14, 2020 8:06:51 GMT
Does anyone use a large soldering iron? Reason I ask is that I have been putting off making two Sweet Pea saddle tanks for about a year now due to not being sure about solder and flux requirements, I am perfectly happy silver soldering anything but have virtually no knowledge of soft soldering apart from a few bits of wire onto a circuit board. I have a couple of very large soldering irons and I wonder if I could use one of them. I have finished all outstanding projects and now the only job left is the saddle tanks. I like the idea of a hotplate, must get some black plate ordered. Can anyone tell me if it is true that the fumes from Bakers fluid will cause everything in the workshop to rust.
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millman
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Post by millman on Aug 6, 2020 14:05:47 GMT
I think we can write off the Alexandra palace exhibition as well, if we get a second wave of Covid in time for winter I don’t think we will be doing anything much until about Easter next year. I will quite happily miss a couple of exhibitions if it keeps me safe from catching the virus, hopefully a vaccine will be developed and we may return to a new form of normal for next years midlands exhibition. We can only hope, keep safe everyone.
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millman
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Post by millman on Jul 19, 2020 10:33:25 GMT
Roll pin?
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millman
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Post by millman on May 30, 2020 13:06:02 GMT
Mike, I would imagine it could be leaky seals just going by it’s age but be aware that due to the age of the machine everything will most probably be in imperial sizes, I don’t know how easy it is to get imperial seals where you are. I would certainly want to know before I started the job that a full set of seals were easily obtainable and at what cost. It all depends on how much you use it and how good a finish you require. Try cleaning the piston rod and lightly lubricate it to make sure it is not juddering in the seals.
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millman
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Post by millman on May 30, 2020 8:07:07 GMT
Mike, that sounds about right to me, I imagine you could use a leather washer if you have any to hand, I find an old trouser belt a good source for small washers etc. The buffer is only there to stop the annoying clonk at the end of every table stroke.
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millman
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Post by millman on May 28, 2020 15:55:22 GMT
Bearing in mind I have not used this model of grinder since I retired almost eight years ago, I seem to remember a rubber buffer at the end and there was some slack in the set up.
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millman
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Post by millman on May 26, 2020 8:22:47 GMT
Too late for you Wilf but I always machine axleboxes on the dividing head using a mandrel. This method ensures that the axle will always be in the middle of the axlebox.
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millman
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Post by millman on May 25, 2020 17:01:41 GMT
I think it is a Martin Cleeve swing clear toolholder, designed to be used for screwcutting especially internal threads so the tool can be swung clear to gauge the thread.
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