|
Post by ilvaporista on Jan 7, 2020 5:01:43 GMT
Granite chopping boards make good surface plates. Another source are the very thick marble tiles from the DIY store. They are about 12-15mm thick and about 50 x 25cm.
If you have a stonemason nearby you can ask for the offcuts from kitchen worktops. The bit that they cut out to fit sinks and cooker jobs are good for our uses.
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 7, 2020 8:00:52 GMT
123 and 345 blocks? LUXUARY! As the now RICH Yorkshire men got to say at long last. Alan you putting your kitchen next to the workshop so you can use your Chopping board as a surface table is pure Genious!!!! BLOCKS I have been using my new Fowler Complex cylinders for my blocks... Then Jessie needed some Sandboxes which left two lumps over so these are very useful. You go from a big drill to a small one and slip in the blocks and you are on height and you have a space to hold the part! Yhis is until thay are cut up for 1500 rear Sandboxes solid to balance the cylinders. Lovingly held the to scale drilled frames as I passed today. Get something earining her keep on the track and return. Love David and Lily. I disagree with you. I think the cost of a pair of 1,2,3 blocks is reasonable and worth having. I have, until now, mainly used them as parallels! If I brought some now I would be considering the quality and the thread sizes ( not too large, typically M6 and how easy it is to bolt them together ( are the holes arranged such that clearance meets a threaded in the other block) Worth considering.
|
|
dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,438
|
Post by dscott on Jan 8, 2020 0:26:07 GMT
£20.48 Bargain from Warco!!! Says he still recovering from last year's expenses. £1,400 Myford Super 7 including masses of bits. £1,200 Part built Jessie 7 1/4 including professional boiler. £1,200 for a boiler and bits from The Steam Workshop. Now Fowler Complex. Trevor Shortlands own built Large Prairie tank 5 inch. Western Steam Hunslet Boiler. Four major Exhibitions and a Supermarket Sweep at Polly Models with a minimum spend of £500 at each!!!
Regards David and Lily.
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 9, 2020 22:29:09 GMT
I got to that point when you have invested lots of time machining a piece and the next operation is one that could ruin the job. Not a pleasurable moment. In this case the job was putting a M8 thread into a 7mm deep hole. Too shallow for the tapper tap to bite. The second had to be persuaded using plenty of pressure from the press to force the tap cut the thread rather than “ream” the hole out! To keep an eye on progress I added a nut to the tap. Took small bites each time and managed to cut the thread. The thread was then bottomed out/finished off with a flatten tap. Tapping and applying plenty of pressure to ensure the cutting of the thread is done correctly rather than stripping it out. Simple single cylinder steam engine by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr The final tap which has been ground flat to ensure max number of threads to the bottom of the hole. The nut confirms the depth that’s been cut. Simple single cylinder steam engine by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr
|
|
mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,719
|
Post by mbrown on Jan 9, 2020 23:00:53 GMT
I had never thought of using a nut to set the tapping depth - excellent idea!
Malcolm
|
|
jasonb
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by jasonb on Jan 10, 2020 7:26:44 GMT
It's a pity Julius did not specify metric fine/constant pitch for holes like this that take steam fittings, it would have reached for my M8 x 1 spiral flute tap, 5/16 x 32 or 26 would also have been easier to thread.
Worth thinking about the other holes for steam fittings especially if you are going to for bought in drain cocks which will have ME threads if bought in the UK or metric fine if sourced from Europe. Even if making all the fittings shown they will be easier if you use metric fine or a constant pitch metric 0.5, 0.75 or 1.0mm
EDIT, There is a note that threads should be metric Fine so can't have a go at Julius.
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 10, 2020 7:49:55 GMT
No don’t have a go at Julius, it was specified on the drawing metric fine.
I am a typical imperialist armed with BA and ME taps and dies but I do have some metric. I was in dilemma whether to use ME or not. I thought I would be faithful to the design where possible but compromise by using standard metric. A rough calculation indicated I would gain only one turn extra at that depth but of course I was overlooking the magnitude of the cut. Live and learn.
I did wonder why the holes where blind and not all the way through as per the exhaust steam fitting.
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 10, 2020 16:52:44 GMT
Two questions First, the cylinder block require two ports drilling through. The drawing shows a 3.5mm hole at 45 degrees. It’s not an operation I have done before. Do I set the block at 45 degrees and machine a small flat then drill through? Your thoughts please. Second question. Part 1-02.4 is made from Bronze or gunmetal. Bronze will be nightmare to ream. I have some phosphor bronze ( brass looking with a leaded pattern on it?) Would this do? Any opinions please. Simple single cylinder steam engine by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr Thanks
|
|
|
Post by simplyloco on Jan 10, 2020 18:47:44 GMT
Two questions First, the cylinder block require two ports drilling through. The drawing shows a 3.5mm hole at 45 degrees. It’s not an operation I have done before. Do I set the block at 45 degrees and machine a small flat then drill through? Your thoughts please. Second question. Part 1-02.4 is made from Bronze or gunmetal. Bronze will be nightmare to ream. I have some phosphor bronze ( brass looking with a leaded pattern on it?) Would this do? Any opinions please. Thanks Hi Keith Yes & Yes - make sure the reamer is sharp! John
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 10, 2020 22:59:58 GMT
John,
I’ll best buy a new reamer next week then...
Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated.
Keith
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 11, 2020 22:22:04 GMT
|
|
don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 960
|
Post by don9f on Jan 11, 2020 23:37:34 GMT
Hi, excellent progress!
I only have hand readers in my collection, but rarely use any by hand....almost always machine driven (lathe or mill/drill). Obviously not much good in blind holes but I’ve never really needed to ream a blind hole!
Cheers Don
|
|
|
Post by simplyloco on Jan 11, 2020 23:59:45 GMT
Hi, excellent progress! I only have hand readers in my collection, but rarely use any by hand....almost always machine driven (lathe or mill/drill). Obviously not much good in blind holes but I’ve never really needed to ream a blind hole! Cheers Don Agreed. I have D bits for short blind holes. John
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Jan 12, 2020 11:55:48 GMT
Hello there, Both Hand and Machine reamers have a tapered section, the machine-type being shorter at the front than a Hand-type.......Have a look at this, in particular 3.2.1 and 3.2.2 ....... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reamer#Hand_reamer
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 12, 2020 21:16:28 GMT
Gentlemen, thank you for your thoughts on reamers. An interesting read en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reamer#Hand_reamerparticularly Size – accuracy and repeatability and the use of coolant or some fluid. The message seems to be don’t ream dry if you want accuracy. Not much done today, just some fitting. Having assembled the cross head guides it was time to check how parallel they were. I was pleasantly surprised when a set of slip gauges just a few thou under size fitted nicely and felt as good at the top as they did the bottom. Simple single cylinder steam engine by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jan 13, 2020 11:52:32 GMT
That's really nice work Keith. Another thing to watch is to not leave too much material for the reamer to remove. Removing too much can sometimes end up with it going over size. For anything up to say 10mm, I drill say 0.3mm under size then out to 0.1mm under before reaming. Drilling straight to 0.1mm under is likely to end in the bore being too big. I suspect this is why they tend to recommend a smaller drill size than I would use, presumably to save time.
|
|
|
Post by keith1500 on Jan 13, 2020 14:02:43 GMT
Roger,
Thanks for that tip. If I recall correctly from my apprenticeship days we were told to leave about 6 thou. I think in the past I have left too much and the reamer felt awful.
So, just to clarify drill under by say .3mm and then drill again to .1mm of size and then ream. This means the reamer is doing very little.
Keith
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jan 13, 2020 14:54:42 GMT
Roger, Thanks for that tip. If I recall correctly from my apprenticeship days we were told to leave about 6 thou. I think in the past I have left too much and the reamer felt awful. So, just to clarify drill under by say .3mm and then drill again to .1mm of size and then ream. This means the reamer is doing very little. Keith Hi Keith, Yes, that's how I do it. If you look up charts for reamers, you'll almost certainly find that they leave quite a bit more.
|
|
jasonb
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by jasonb on Jan 13, 2020 18:20:55 GMT
Also bear in mind that drills can wander and a reamer will follow a wonkey hole, 8mm and over I tend to bore rather than ream plus you can adjust the fit to suit. Eg I just did an engine with an 8mm shaft and went with a press fit for the crank disc, push fit for the flywheel and running fit for the bearings which would have needed 3 reamers.
3mm I tend to drill 2.8 and then 0.3mm under for sizes over that. I have stub length drills in these sizes and tend to keep them for that use.
I see there is no provision for a stuffing gland on teh piston rod, hust a bronze bush. may be sothething to think about adding.
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Jan 13, 2020 21:22:27 GMT
Roger, Thanks for that tip. If I recall correctly from my apprenticeship days we were told to leave about 6 thou. I think in the past I have left too much and the reamer felt awful. So, just to clarify drill under by say .3mm and then drill again to .1mm of size and then ream. This means the reamer is doing very little. Keith Hi Keith, Yes, that's correct......Basically "D" bits, drills etc are cutting or forming tools.....whereas the reamer is a Finishing tool....In my App. days ie back in the Dark Ages of Imperial sizes and Mechanical measuring devices with Hand-held & Mk.1 Eyeball systems, 5 to 10 thou. depending on the size of the hole being reamed was suggested......... Remember that 1/64 inch is approx 0.015" ( Fifteen thou. ) = 0.015625 true...... and 1/100 inch is ten thou.......These graduations can be found on better quality 6 inch rules and can be used to advantage with ordinary spring calipers...
|
|