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JonL
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WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Jan 17, 2021 14:45:38 GMT
I finally replaced the steam turret I wasn't happy with. Originally I planned a Banjo design but realised it was probably an over complication for my needs. I've made it easier to plumb in, and included and extra fitting which I have blanked for now in case I decide to fit an injector later. I just need to replumb in the blower and its back to business.
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JonL
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WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on Jan 23, 2021 15:54:46 GMT
After pumping up the boiler I carried out a steam test. Really lovely to get it going again; she steamed really well. The new blower pipework seems less restrictive, I had to throttle it back quite often.
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JonL
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WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on Feb 27, 2021 15:57:44 GMT
Some of the running boards had felt a bit flimsy. This wouldnt have been a problem but my hand pump is in the right hand tank. I've put some reinforcement under them and some spreader plates on the joining areas to spread the load a little. Suprising how such a little thing can make such a big impact on the rigidity.
Touched up the paint, but ideally I want to repaint the tanks after the varnish issues.
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JonL
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WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on Apr 9, 2021 18:08:19 GMT
Faffing about waiting for the pipework to arrive so I can finish plumbing in the southworth and sort out the small leak between the pump and the bypass.
One little niggle was its very hard to see inside the tanks to work out your water level through the fillers. Trying to come up with an interesting solution I went back to my automotive days and made a float on a pivoting arm to go in the left hand water tank. This has a pointer attached with a view through a window at the top of the tank so at a glance you can look at this "gauge" and see if they need topping up. It is entirely hidden away with the exception of the 5p coin sized window which can be checked from either the drivers position or by my willing helpers.
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JonL
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WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on Apr 13, 2021 18:12:13 GMT
All plumbed in now but it doesn't actually pump water into the boiler properly. I'm going to experiment with a few variations of clack types (I started with the smallest nitrile balls I thought I could get away with but ended up going larger). I started with nitrile as the check valves are led on their sides so I figured a light nitrile ball might react quicker and more effectively than a silicon nitride one. This wasn't the case.
I think I know the problem as the water at the intake is pulsing back and forth so I know which valve is at fault, but I'm not having much luck getting it to behave.
I may remove the valve there and make one that sits vertically in line, so gravity will help with the response speed.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on Apr 19, 2021 9:24:37 GMT
So running was cut slightly short on Saturday by a blocked water gauge. As a result yesterday I took the fittings off. When originally installing the water gauge I made small bush extensions to bring the gauge forward, however in my inexperience I didn't leave enough meat in the bush and it snapped off in the boiler bush. I stepped back to make a considered judgement and ended up using a torx bit as an easy out. Luckily for me with gentle persuasion it came out with no damage to the boiler or bush.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Apr 20, 2021 10:59:55 GMT
I scoured the internet for bronze hex of the diameter I needed, which I prefer to the round as I can leave some flats somewhere to gently tighten the fitting I've made (As I'm sure most of you do already). Couldn't get the exact size I wanted but finally found a supplier. It's turned up and its round. Checking the order it turns out after all that I ordered round by mistake....
looks like its getting some flats machined onto it then....
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Apr 22, 2021 10:21:09 GMT
You may recall I previously had some annoying problems with cutting a thread on some fittings; well they are back. I've really got good at the simple art of thread cutting with taps and dies, and I double checked my technique and I'm sure I'm doing everything by the book. However when I think back I suspect it was this exact thread I was having issues with (1/4 x 32) and looking at the die I don't know if it might be the issue. To rule it out I've just bought a new die online. However I think when I get more time I may actually have a go at cutting the thread on the lathe. I've done it a few times but not this small. I'll give it a go over the weekend and hopefully won't chew up too much more metal.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
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Post by dscott on Apr 23, 2021 0:36:05 GMT
On very common threads I have 2 dies set up in home made holders. These can then go into a holder in the tailstock. First run up the opened out die which has the numbers on the outside. Then the second die pre set to size with the numbers on the inside. The size and thread being number stamped in your holder.
In fact quicker to do than type.
I shall try and remember a Photo in the morning as I am collecting more as I go through the day. Some of them funny. And a bit mad.
Oh and we will be coming to the Myford Guy Howard SN13 9XT to collect a tray and other bits for the RUSTY Super 7. We could meet up masks pending!
David and Lily.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on Apr 23, 2021 15:34:34 GMT
I think thats the chap I bought my tender from (the 5" gauge one I've modded into a 08 shunter), he had a fantastic collection but was very much a businessman and wasn't very chatty. Once he had my money I was almost ushered to the car.
What day are you coming?
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Post by cplmickey on Apr 27, 2021 8:08:23 GMT
Occasionally you get a faulty die. I bought one last year that was fine on the side with the lead-in taper but turning it round it wouldn't even start onto the cut thread. I had to buy another so I could cut the thread fully to the head of the part. Disappointingly I contacted the (well known) supplier but never got a response. Ian
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Apr 27, 2021 8:13:35 GMT
I think thats the chap I bought my tender from (the 5" gauge one I've modded into a 08 shunter), he had a fantastic collection but was very much a businessman and wasn't very chatty. Once he had my money I was almost ushered to the car. What day are you coming? I bought some stuff off him a few years ago and I could hardly get away! He showed me his entire massive stock and gave me loads of advice. Perhaps he had some other pressing matter to attend when you went? Pete.
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Post by David on May 3, 2021 9:00:36 GMT
It took me 10 years to learn that you're meant to use the slit in the die to open it out so your threads aren't undersized. I have to say it's still a mystery to me - some dies seem ok without being splayed open and others cut a perfectly good thread when they're stretched to the limit of the die holder.
You were lucky the broken thread in your gauge glass bush came out relatively easily!
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on May 3, 2021 15:27:59 GMT
I'm finding dies and taps vary hugely in quality. I'm finding a few brands now I go back to which I trust. This one was a non-descript unbranded one. I've since bought a known-brand version and the old one can go in the bin. I had already opened it out slightly but it just seems to chew off threads.
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JonL
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Post by JonL on May 3, 2021 15:29:37 GMT
Some of the motion work on this locomotive was quite sloppy in its fit. Every now an then I pick a piece I don't like and remake it a bit tighter, or bush some fittings, which is what I've been up to today.
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stevep
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Post by stevep on May 3, 2021 15:49:28 GMT
Nobby - don't make everything too tight. Remember, you need space for the oil, and also to allow the suspension to operate without locking everything up.
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JonL
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Post by JonL on May 3, 2021 15:54:08 GMT
Nobby - don't make everything too tight. Remember, you need space for the oil, and also to allow the suspension to operate without locking everything up. I completely agree. This was on the very loose side of loose; I've just brought things in a little to remove some of the lost motion. It's a valid reminder and duly noted, thank you Steve.
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JonL
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WWSME (Wiltshire)
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Post by JonL on May 6, 2021 15:22:41 GMT
My water pump was showing signs of wear so I sleeved it today. Need to work out why it's doing it though, maybe I need to sort out better lubrication to the ram.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on May 15, 2021 20:12:37 GMT
Water pump and hand pump are working brilliantly. As I mentioned elsewhere, we did over 6 miles on track today. Mechanically (valvegear and motionwork etc) she is running as slick as she ever has. Need to sort out my issues with clinker and tube blockages, but I think this may be a combination of bad coal and a worse fireman. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/14312/clinker-tube-blockages
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