JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Oct 20, 2024 15:45:00 GMT
Every time I try to solder union nipples onto 1/16 pipe capillary action draws the solder into the pipe and blocks it. Does anyone have any advice or tips please?
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Post by flyingfox on Oct 20, 2024 16:18:43 GMT
Hi Jon, push some typewriter correction fluid down the hole, remove excess from outside, leave clean, use thinnest solder you have
Regards
Brian B
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Post by Roger on Oct 20, 2024 16:26:42 GMT
Hi Jon,
Personally, I'd just swage the ends instead of using unions.
However, to answer your question...
1) Clean everything so it's really bright
2) Use a dab of Nail Varnish in on the end, making sure it blocks the hole
3) Make a ring of 0.5mm diameter Silver Solder wire. Wind it onto a drill shank that's smaller than the tube so that it's a snug fit on the tube
4) Use a little more Nail Varnish on the Copper pipe and on the outside of the Nipple so that the Silver Solder can't stray too far.
5) Mix up some flux with a tiny dab of washing up liquid, so it's thick and creamy.
6) Plaster the whole thing with it.
7) Warm it up gently until the flux goes clear and the Silver Solder melts. It will only need to be a dull red.
Yes, this takes a lot longer than just dipping it in flux, getting it Red hot and applying the Silver Solder. However, you have to get it a lot hotter to melt the Silver Solder that way, and you can easily add far more than you need, and to places to didn't intent. I never add Silver Solder by hand, it's always placed on the joint and buried in flux. That way you always maintain control of what's going on.
Others will disagree, I'm only explaining what I do and why.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Oct 20, 2024 17:06:57 GMT
Ok that's brilliant, thank you. I didn't use the tippex I usually use in this example because I thought it would leave deposits that would block the hole, but I guess I'm worrying about nothing. Thank you.
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Post by Roger on Oct 20, 2024 19:19:01 GMT
You may block the hole, but if it's just carbon based deposit, you can clean that out with a small drill.
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Post by Cro on Oct 21, 2024 8:50:57 GMT
Hammer the end of the solder to a flat wedge so when you apply to the joint you are only touching the very thin edge of the flattened solder. Or stick the rod in the lathe and file to a sharp point works very well for fine joints.
I personally don't like rings/placing solder in the flux as I find you get way too much. I tried this trick yesterday on something as it was an assembly that someone else had made and I didn't want it to fall apart from overheating but even a small piece, shorter than the length of joint, left a large fillet all around the part that now needs cleaning away.
Adam
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Post by cplmickey on Oct 21, 2024 10:36:44 GMT
Ok that's brilliant, thank you. I didn't use the tippex I usually use in this example because I thought it would leave deposits that would block the hole, but I guess I'm worrying about nothing. Thank you. A quick soak in cellulose thinners will remove correction fluid. Ian |
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Post by andyhigham on Oct 21, 2024 13:41:37 GMT
Doesn't Roger use titanium wire to support things being silver soldered? The titanium appears to resist the solder. You could poke a piece of titanium wire down the bore before soldering
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Oct 21, 2024 16:36:59 GMT
These are all great suggestions, thank you. I've been using small pallions I make from silver solder biffed flat with a hammer, or alternatively (and more wastefully) thinned with the linisher.
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Post by Roger on Oct 21, 2024 17:10:40 GMT
Doesn't Roger use titanium wire to support things being silver soldered? The titanium appears to resist the solder. You could poke a piece of titanium wire down the bore before soldering That's correct, I have some Titanium Welding rod that I use. I think it's 1.6mm diameter though, but it could be turned down. It's very useful for supporting items and also for making a rod for scraping along a joint. |
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Post by Roger on Oct 21, 2024 17:12:03 GMT
Hammer the end of the solder to a flat wedge so when you apply to the joint you are only touching the very thin edge of the flattened solder. Or stick the rod in the lathe and file to a sharp point works very well for fine joints. I personally don't like rings/placing solder in the flux as I find you get way too much. I tried this trick yesterday on something as it was an assembly that someone else had made and I didn't want it to fall apart from overheating but even a small piece, shorter than the length of joint, left a large fillet all around the part that now needs cleaning away. Adam I use 0.5mm diameter wire, so for most things that's not too much. You can always make a horseshoe shape if you don't want as much. |
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Post by Cro on Oct 21, 2024 18:11:34 GMT
I’ve just always had better results feeding solder by hand but if it works that’s great. You can’t argue with your results so clearly got the hang of it!
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Post by simplyloco on Oct 22, 2024 10:01:34 GMT
Every time I try to solder union nipples onto 1/16 pipe capillary action draws the solder into the pipe and blocks it. Does anyone have any advice or tips please? Hi Jon. I've been using CupAlloys silver solder paste on small joints for many years now. Expensive but a little goes a long way! I bought a new syringe last week: £26.00! The last one I bought about three years ago was £16.00... John |
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Oct 22, 2024 16:01:45 GMT
I wish I'd thought of that, I could have bought from their stand at the Midlands MEX. Ah well, live and learn! I'll grab some on my next order.
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Post by Jo on Oct 23, 2024 6:43:07 GMT
CPC do Solder paste cheaper... and of course Amazon. The even cheaper stuff from China includes Lead (Pb) which is "avoided" in the UK but still used at times as it produces a longer lasting joint  |
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Post by ettingtonliam on Oct 23, 2024 9:30:07 GMT
In silver solder?
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Post by simplyloco on Oct 23, 2024 10:06:53 GMT
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Post by Jo on Oct 23, 2024 16:18:01 GMT
Which begs the question why do you need to use silver solder? Even on the outside of a hot boiler soft solder is not going to melt which is why they used to use it for caulking.
The only place where a 1/16" tube is going to work for any time is on the syphon for your pressure gauge. Anywhere else it is going to gunge up with "cr*p" very quickly.
Jo
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Oct 23, 2024 18:28:11 GMT
This is the siphon on a pressure gauge, however I do want it nice and strong.
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Post by Cro on Oct 23, 2024 19:48:09 GMT
Which begs the question why do you need to use silver solder? Even on the outside of a hot boiler soft solder is not going to melt which is why they used to use it for caulking. The only place where a 1/16" tube is going to work for any time is on the syphon for your pressure gauge. Anywhere else it is going to gunge up with "cr*p" very quickly. Jo You say that but we had our chairman & boiler inspector soft solder his pressure gauge pipe and one day someone walked the loco back to the steaming bays with said gauge and pipe in their hand. |
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