|
Post by mowerman1 on Nov 28, 2008 11:37:23 GMT
Steve,
Thank you for the MW timing instructions. I've tried to make sense of them and I think I know what they're on at. One problem - The instructions state ".......... measure the valve rod length protruding from the valve chest and set it to the position for valve centre you measured previously". Unfortunately there is no reference to this previous measurement and how it is done, and without it the instructions cannot be used.
Reading between the lines, these instructions only set an approximate timing and the time consuming fiddling of minute adjustments is needed to get it as accurate as possible.
I was interested to hear that your injector had too much water flow. This has not been my experience. As you say - if you can site your riding tank to get a good gravitational flow, the injector(s) work much better.
Re the airlock in your handpump, I find I sometimes get a stuck ball and this gives the same symptoms as an air lock. I find that putting the end of a metal rod on the top of the pump body and giving it a sharp tap seems to clear it.
It will be interesting to see if you get leaking from the front gland of the axle pump when you've done a fair bit of running.
I hope your back gets better soon.
Peter
|
|
sjtown
Active Member
Posts: 38
|
Post by sjtown on Nov 29, 2008 14:02:13 GMT
Peter,
That will teach me not just to copy and paste text! The measurement if i remember correctly was all to do with the lap of each valve in the valve chest. This was I think all to do with just getting the valve centered in the valve chest and using the measurements of how far the rods protruded when the valve is pushed all the way in and brought all the way back (for forward and reverse). So I think he simply just means getting the valve in mid position, which you should be able to work out by doing the above and getting the half way point between the two... ...if that makes, sense! Im not 100% sure that works either as it was such a long time ago I looked at it! My measurements were taken, I think, when the whole piston unit was out of the frames and using Modelworks Cast Iron Valves instead of the soft Brass ones - The Brass Winsons ones also had more 'lap' meaning slightly more restricted steam flow.
I would say get it somewhere close and then just spend ages fiddling with it, turning the nuts a half a turn at a time while running on air. When your happy and can steam it, run it (a rolling road is handy!) and make adjustments again while in steam, as I found it can run very differently on steam power!
The water flow to the injector always wants more to start with so it doesn't just blow steam out of the overflow, but as soon as its picked it up and chucking most of the combined water and steam out of the over flow I have to turn the water down until it stops overflowing and chucks it all towards the boiler and 'chirps' away. This is more prominent on the traction engine.
Ive no idea what distances the loco has covered in its life and I'm sure Ive replaced the gland on the axle pump once, very early on after buying it, but not touched it since! Hopefully it will hold out for a while - unlike the traction engine which is a complete Ar*e!
Cheers, Steve
|
|
|
Post by mowerman1 on Nov 29, 2008 20:33:15 GMT
Thanks Steve. I'm most grateful for your help. Peter
|
|
|
Post by crosser62 on Feb 1, 2009 14:21:06 GMT
hi have just bought a winson 1400 kit never been touched.. wonder why! look forward to sorting all these problems.. haha hopefully will be running for this season tho james
|
|
sjtown
Active Member
Posts: 38
|
Post by sjtown on Feb 1, 2009 17:17:41 GMT
Hi James, It would be very interesting to hear how you get on with it, and how quickly things progress! I would be most impressed if you had it running well this season. I'm sure, unfortunately, that you will come across other issues we've not mentioned here! Good luck with it, have fun, and keep us posted!
Cheers, Steve
|
|
|
Post by crosser62 on Feb 27, 2009 18:07:40 GMT
hi so far had a good laugh at problems found seems a shame that winson were so close but yet so far with these engines, so far have rolling chassis have clocked up crank axle and appears to be spot on which came as a supprise, still aiming for running well this season fortunatly my dad is a bit of a steam nerd and knows valve gear inside out which is handy because i have no idea!
had a bit of trouble working out axle boxes if done by drawing and instructions axleboxs are free to wonder into the center of the axle :S
hope to get it done asap but i seem to be completing a super simplex for a friend of mine so we shall see.. how does yours run have you managed to succeed???
cheers, james
|
|
sjtown
Active Member
Posts: 38
|
Post by sjtown on Apr 25, 2009 20:21:53 GMT
Quick update... All seems well, unsure of timing being 100% and something doesn't seem right with either gauging or springing. It still seems like it crabs and really slows down around the long curves in the video. Anyway have a watch and let me know what you think! 5 Min video of my 1400 running at our club track about a month a go: www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYYzG7ukY9QSteve
|
|
|
Post by Phil Sutton on Apr 26, 2009 20:20:43 GMT
Steve,certainly seems to be running ok,exhaust beats seem regular and constant,so I would think timing is about spot on.I know some early Winson 1400s had no register on the axles to give proper back to back measurement on the driving and trailing wheels.Early instructions said to get 3 rods of the correct length(whatever it was in metric)and use them to gauge the wheels.Seemed very iffy to me.Is there any sideplay at the wheels at all?Do your driving/riding trucks have bogies or rigid wheel sets?Are the curves on the track tight to Gauge? These are all things that need to be checked. Hope this has helped,but must say your 1400 looks and sounds fine.
Phil
|
|
sjtown
Active Member
Posts: 38
|
Post by sjtown on Oct 29, 2009 9:19:02 GMT
Another quick update, I have tapped the driving wheels in a bit as the gauging did seem to be a bit on the wide side... Its still not perfect but it does seem better after a run a couple of weeks ago. I've not modified the timing (I don't dare!) but it still sound slightly out but doesn't seem to affect it to much and runs well with 2 people and 3 riding trucks behind. On the loop at Romney the best way to control steam pressure is by regulating the axle pump and opening the fire doors once at the top of the gradient on the loop to keep it from blowing off. It will do 4 loops of the oval track, at a push, on one tank of water (both tanks full with balance pipe), the loop is about 200m with a gradient from one end to the other. I did not have any external tank on the last run so couldn't use the injector. Some new photos here: www.thestig.co.uk/GWR14I've got the steam boiler test this Saturday so will have another quick run then, with injector and external tank. All the best, Steve
|
|