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Post by ron on May 4, 2008 12:58:05 GMT
Hi Everybody After hacking out the cabsides of Simplex with a traditional hacksaw there must be an easier way of doing so I was wondering about buying a bandsaw, which looks a handy tool for various other jobs as well, anyone got experience of owning and using one, suggested supplier etc? Ron
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Post by circlip on May 4, 2008 14:43:08 GMT
Bought a Burgess a lot of years ago, bit flexible, later other equipment models probably more rigid, worth checking out. Whichever you buy, unless it's a super duper one, will need "Tuning" to work properly, - various articles in ME and MEW. MOST important point is THROW THE SUPPLIED BLADE AWAY. Decent blades from specialist suppliers make all the difference. Try an ad on:- homeworkshop.org.uk/ for a second user machine. Regards Ian
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Richmond
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My engineering is like this avatar : Projects start off ok, then go off track :D
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Post by Richmond on May 4, 2008 15:48:56 GMT
ok... I also bought a Burgess Mk3, and did the "slow speed" mod published in ME. Works ok, upto 1/4" ally, and just about cuts 1/8" steel albeit bery slowly ;D
There are some chinese ( wood ) bandsaws on Ebay that are about £75, and they also have a mod available for slowing blade speed down to cut steel with the appropriate blades.
I wanted to buy a horiz and vert bandsaw earlier this year. Chester and others used to do them, but apparently the law changed 7 or 8 years ago to prevent their sale. The H110 and HV125 can be modified to provide a vertical bandsaw function, but needs a little effort. I was told of a published plan in one of the mags, but have been unable to source it though.
There is a supplier on Ebay still doing the dual purpose one, but is breaking current law by doing so.......so up to you really.
Rgds Keith
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Post by circlip on May 4, 2008 16:08:04 GMT
There was a fabricated two wheel design in one of the early editions of MEW, used square section tube, welded construction, and mods to a vert/horiz in a later one. Ian.
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kingsteam9
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Post by kingsteam9 on May 6, 2008 9:33:51 GMT
I use a Burgess BBK which I bought new about thirty years ago and is still flogging on gamely without a slow speed mod. It currently uses blades I bought from Pennyfarthing Tools in Salisbury and will quite happily cut 1/8" steel at a fairly fast rate so something similar should do your cab platework easily. I agree with Circlip's comment though - it all depends on the blade. Mine from PFT seem to be good quality and are lasting well. The only mod I need to do (one day when the list gets shorter) is to improve the blade guides - the original design aren't too good at keeping the blade straight so a cut needs careful control.
regrds
Robin
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kingsteam9
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Post by kingsteam9 on May 6, 2008 9:35:44 GMT
On second thoughts it wasn't a BBK but a BBS20 - doh!
Robin
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Post by dickdastardly40 on May 6, 2008 10:36:42 GMT
I have used a buddies one who obtained it from machine mart (no affiliation): www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbs45md-41-2in-x-6in-metal-cutting-ban/path/power-hacksaws-bandsaws-metal-cutting-sawsIt has a horizontal and vertical mode and is 3 speed. It works OK but the vice is reallly cheesy and needs a little work to get it to grip square. The vertical table is held on with 3 countersunk screws and is a little flexible, you could prolly beef it up if you were using it this way a lot. The base is sheet metal and feels flimsy but it does work. My mate used it a lot in making steel railings in the horizontal mode and it worked well, the cut of stops the motor on the bottom of the downstroke if correctly set. I used it vertically to cut out the blanks for the standards on my triple from 1 1/4 ally plate, and it could be stalled easily if you fed too quick but it got the job done. The blades we used were the proprietry clarke from MM in two pitches, I can't comment on better manufacturers if they are available in this size. Al
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Post by circlip on May 6, 2008 14:14:58 GMT
If you look in the woodworking mags Al, (OK I know its Blasphemy) for the blade suppliers, you tell them the blade length and they make them up. The ones from MM are the original proprietary c4ap. You would not believe the difference in cutting. Regards Ian.
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simonwass
Part of the e-furniture
Cecil Pagets 2-6-2 of 1908. Engine number 2299. Would make a fascinating model....
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Post by simonwass on May 6, 2008 23:30:07 GMT
What is this 'law' that prevents the sale of dual purpose machines?
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Richmond
Seasoned Member
My engineering is like this avatar : Projects start off ok, then go off track :D
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Post by Richmond on May 7, 2008 6:22:47 GMT
My understanding is that it has to do with Europe and CE approval. Ring Chester UK and ask if they still sell one, they will quite happily tell you the story of why not, and the reasons for it. Other than that I can't help, sorry Keith
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Post by dickdastardly40 on May 7, 2008 6:52:12 GMT
The one shown in my link above is definitely dual purpose unless I'm mistaking the difference. I couldn't say if it was CE marked however I'd guess so as it is an electrical item for sale in the UK (don't know the rules for this)
Al
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Post by jonkett on May 14, 2008 18:07:36 GMT
If you buy a bandsaw, always go for a 2 wheeled type, the 3 wheeled type have a reputation for breaking blades. Small band saw machines, especialy the cheaper vertical ones are mainly designed for cutting wood. They will work on thinner metals it is all down to having the finest blade, the golden rule is 3 teeth in contact with the metal at all times. For non ferrous and thin section m/steel a carbon steel blade is plenty good enough.
Have you considered a scroll saw relatively cheap and works well
regards n K.
Joh
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russell
Statesman
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Post by russell on May 14, 2008 19:40:45 GMT
My 30 year old Burgess bandsaw (3 wheel) regularly cuts up to 3 in dia steel bar with no problems. It used to get through blades quickly but I have modified it to reduce the speed and it works fine.
Russell.
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davediy
Active Member
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Post by davediy on May 16, 2008 20:12:13 GMT
Hi I think the reason for the ban may have more to do with fire regs on electrical machinary. We had issues with our insurers over our duel band saw in the paternshop they said they had concerns over the possabilty of wood dust in the housing being set alight from sparks when it was used for metal cutting. The fact it was over 50 years old and never suffered from any problems didnt apease them. They also winged about the cuttting coolant we somtimes used causing a hazard if it mixed with any wood dust Needless to say we had to seperate the metal cutting equipment to a seperated area and buy a purpose Wood cutting band saw for the main shop This was only about 6 years ago and never did find out what ruling was all about
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on May 17, 2008 1:16:46 GMT
G'day all
On one of the USA sites I saw an article about a budget bandsaw which over heated; it didn't look very pretty. The reason they didn't get CE rating could be because of the insulating materials used. Unfortunately some of the gear imported from the "East" uses incendiary plastics in critical parts. In Oz we have had computer monitors and water pump motors in air coolers catch fire due to the use of the wrong plastic; unfortunately lives have been lost in house fires. We are now being troubled by cheap imported wall sockets and switches with incendiary plastic. Local products (Clipsal) have to pass hot wire tests etc.
Regards, Ian
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Post by circlip on May 17, 2008 6:38:41 GMT
So this is what all our recycled plastics come back as?? We went through the cr*p electric motor/fittings saga when the machinery first came from Taiwan, so the Chinese obviously nicked the same original sets of plans. Regards Ian (Yorkshire one)
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Post by ron on May 24, 2008 9:47:50 GMT
Hi Everybody Thanks for the sage advices, my wife has offered to buy me one for my birthday, so on the advice of an ex member it looks like a Warco one will be ordered after the bank hol. [hope their delivery is a bit better organised than the last time I bought something from them ] Ron
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Post by ron on Jun 4, 2008 20:01:19 GMT
I've now got the Warco bandsaw, it is 3 speed and does both horizontal and vertical cutting, as someone noted in a previous post it does need a wee bit of setting up to get the best out of it but all in all it seems to be a pretty good machine for not a huge amount of money. I cut out the rest of the platework for Simplex in about half an hour with it in the vertical position which would have taken me days by traditional methods, it also has wheels and a handle so can be stored out the way. Ron
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Post by ilvaporista on Jun 5, 2008 8:01:34 GMT
In the ME a few years ago there was a series of articles (well at least one...) on setting up the dual saw. It contained lots of good tips and advice including a more robust and larger saw table. It was well worth the effort to make it, I modified it slightly so that it could be removed quicker.
I am sure someone with an index can give a reference.
Along with my pillar drill this is the most used item of equipment in my shop. Now on it's second motor and still able to cut through 3" dia steel bar.
What else can I say I think it's great. It sits quietly in the corner, comes out does it's jobs without fuss. Shame I can't get it to give the wife lessons.... ;D
Like everyone says get decent blades
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Post by alanstepney on Jun 5, 2008 8:22:47 GMT
The main problem I had with mine, (an early one, similar to Warco et al) was that the stand is too flimsy. They may have changed that over time, but it is no trouble to beef it up a little.
Apart from that, and as Ron said, they work, and save a vast amount of time.
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