New simplex

[stephen1234]

Hi,
i am new to this steam tran making game and have just started building a simplex. I have planned to bild something like this for quite a while and have slowly built up a reasonably good workshop consitsting of
1) a Clark pillar drill
2) a Myford super 7 lathe
3) A metal cutting band saw
4) a recently purchased Centec milling machine.
Why start a simplex?
Well the plans where free on the model engineer website and i started reading articles on this website. The final killer was Doctor John website that has been a lot of guidance in how to proceed.
This weekend has consisted of
1) marking out
2) centre drilling the marked spots
3) finding that I don't have all thhe drills I need to drill the holes
I have also made one mistake.
The 7/8" radius at the front of the mainframes is now a 7/16" radius. Not sure if this is going to be aproblem in the future. but it will be a bit different to everybody elses.
One of the reasons i am writtign on here is that I know that i will need help. So look out for dumb questions.

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[Deleted]

Oct 25, 2009 19:42:56 GMT stephen1234 said:

So look out for dumb questions.

Don't worry about dumb questions Stephen, everybody has to learn some time. It's the dumb answers you need to watch out for.......
JB

[redmog]

Looks OK.

Hi Stephen.
Looks OK to me.
The curve at the front bottom which is 7/8" rad.
is only cosmetic.
All Simplex's are different anyway.
It's a loco that you can put your own touches to,
as long as the mechanical dimensions are kept to the drawings.
A Simplex is a good build and a good loco.
I built one years ago and it's my regular steamer.

Chris

[drumkilbo]

Wow Chris, that's a novel place to put the whistle !

Stephen, just remember that nobody starts off knowing it all, enjoy the experience of learning new skills and ask away on this forum. I've had plenty of help as I'm sure many others have.
Enjoy,

Ian.

[baggo]

Hi Stephen,

Welcome and good luck with the build. You can't go far wrong with the Simplex. There's been plenty built and running. I've gone for a stretched version to try out a few ideas but then again I'm an inherent tinkerer and can't leave well alone ;D

As has been mentioned, the radius is purely cosmetic and won't affect anything. If anyone says anything about it just pretend you meant to do it ;D

DJ's site is a good write up of the build and should help you on your way. Keep posting photos etc. of your progress.

John

[Prowe]

Chris,
Slightly OT - does your whistle not suffer from condensation filling up the tube?
I ask only because I think it may solve one of my future whistle problems.

Regards,

Phil

[redmog]

Small Hole.

Phil.
I think it has a small hole in the bottom.
I'll have a look.
Either way I have no problem with it.
I didn't want to put it under the running boards.
Drilling holes under the tanks, in the way of injectors etc.
Seems to work fine.

Chris

[stephen1234]

Thanks for all the support.

Last night i drilled and reamed the 1/2" hole and 11/16" hole. I also cut the last radius using a hole saw ( the offending item is the second radius from the right). Unfortunatley I got the position slightly wrong and have run over the mark line. ( approx 1mm)
Looking at it i think i have three choices
1) start again (not an option i want to take but i have spare blanks)
2) apply some weld to the offending area and grind back
3) leave it alone

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[redmog]

Small Mistakes.

Stephen.
If it's the 1 1/8" or the 3/4" rad curve on the right of the frames
again they are cosmetic.
It looks like you are doing a good job, keep up the good work.
As I said before the important dimensions are the mechanical ones.
eg. distances between axle centres.
We are all making mistakes - just don't make them Big Ones.

Chris

[baggo]

Hi Stephen,

just leave it as it is and trim the edge of the frames to suit. The only thing is the bottom of the rear stretcher comes flush with the edge of the frames so you will either have to trim a bit off the bottom of the stretcher or simply move it up 1mm. I don't think the top edge of the stretcher will foul anything if you do put it 1mm higher. You mark off the fixing holes for the stretcher from the frames anyway so they won't be a problem.

John

[stephen1234]

John/Chris
Thanks i never thought of moving the stretcher. Another problem resolved.
I regards to the horns i was think of keeping to the original plan of steel plates but i would like to add spring. Any advice/drawings on this would be appreciatted.

[russell]

The original horn design using steel flats riveted in place works fine. The cast horns look more authentic but they are hardly visible, cost more, and are more work.

I don't understand your comment of wanting to add spring. The axles are sprung with coil springs.

PS. Don't worry about mistakes - I've made loads. I just refer to them as modifications!

Russell.

[drjohn]

Hi Stephen

Glad my site inspired you, but I'm no engineer as you probably saw. John (Baggo)'s site is much more professional engineering.

And if you want to get really serious for wheel turning etc, have a look at the amazing Hiroyuki Watanabe's site -
mokei-jouki.hp.infoseek.co.jp/e-Wiltop.htm

As to the horns - my first Simplex I rivetted them, but ended up with a lot of filing from misplaced "dings" etc. I also don't feel that cold rivetting is particularly strong especially with long rivets like those, so this latest Simplex, I used countersunk screws with loctite and driven in with a torque controlled power screwdriver - socket headed countersinks would have been even better but I didn't find a source of those in Malaysia till much later.

You're doing well - keep it up.

DJ.

[stephen1234]

Russel,
your right, I went back to dr john site, I thought i saw springs on top of the plate. But it was wrong.
Started cutting excess steel off last night, progressing nicely.

Stephen

[stephen1234]

I have now 99% completed the mainframes, I have just one 3/16" reamed hole to be 100% complete. The reamer is in the post.
Just about to start cutting and marking the spreaders and the buffer beams.

I have started looking for wheel castings, god they are expensive. is it possible to do the wheel some other way?

Regards
Stephen

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[drjohn]

Hi Steven

That 3/16" hole. It's important to have the frames joined accurately when you bore that one as it is the alignment hole for the expansion links.

I see you have 4 spare holes at the rear Not to worry, lots of simplexes have those for "ventilation" purposes! The ones I'm talking about are the ones above the rear stretcher - they're for the reverser stand.

Doing well - keep it up.

Yes wheels are ridiculously expensive for a bit of cast iron. Maybe someone on the forum has wooden patterns if you can still get foundries to cast little runs of sand-casting in the nanny-state UK.

[stephen1234]

I now i can get castings done at blist hill museum at iron bridge. In fact anyone can get castings done there. I am not sure what the charge is, but you do have to supply your own patterns.

[drjohn]

Maybe some generous spark will offer you the use of his patterns Stephen. Sorry, I left mine in the UK 20 over years ago when I saw the light and moved to sunnier climes.

DJ

[stephen1234]

Dr John,
It took me three hours to realise what the four additional holes were. ( just waking up I think).
I think i will fill these up with a bit of welding. But will leave it to nearer the end before deciding.

Regards

Stephen

[sapper]

Not a good idea to put heat near the frames. Lightly countersink each side and put a rivit in. Finish by filing flush, a coat of paint and no one will know.
Happy building
Sapper