steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Nov 25, 2009 7:54:13 GMT
G'day DrJ
We've had this discussion before. If I recall it was because red showed up cracks in the frames. If there was a crack the oil and dirt made a dark line, a sort of built in crack test no need for dye and white spray powder.
The red inside goes back a long way. When I was a teenager the first loco was collected for what was later to be SA's National Rail Museum. It was parked out on an industrial siding and we used to go out there and scrape away grease from inside the frames. Surprise, red paint was revealed. The red colour no doubt was red lead oxide.
Regards
Ian
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Post by drjohn on Nov 25, 2009 8:56:21 GMT
Ah - "regards" this time, not "disregards"
I don't have cracks in my frames, or anywhere else for that matter as I'm (and my frames are) made from thicker stuff! ;D ;D
DJ
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Post by jgb7573 on Nov 25, 2009 12:34:22 GMT
The Ffestiniog (the only 'full size' railway that I have practical knowledge of) paints the inside of the frames of its engines red. I've never asked why, but I have a theory that it is so that the blood doesn't show when you crack your head on a something hard when working underneath one of them in the pit.
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Post by odc on Nov 25, 2009 12:41:17 GMT
It has never occured to me to ask Woll why, but the other railways I work on have all been the same. Something to do with it being standard colour for inside frames and control rods, possible to aid visibility whilst oiling up.
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on Nov 30, 2009 15:09:55 GMT
I have started putting holes in the buffer beams for the rivets and whiles drilling and measuring found a small problem.
All the strethers are approx one sixteenth of an inch smaller than they should be.
The buffer beams are drilled and fitted to match.
Not sure if this is a going to create a problem.
Any thoughts?
Stephen
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on Nov 30, 2009 20:03:17 GMT
Ignore my last message, i just discovered what the problem was.
ME! ;D
Seem i can measure in metric bu not decimal inches......
All appears to be ok
regards
Stephen
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on Dec 6, 2009 16:03:34 GMT
Hi,
First buffer beam now has soft iron rivets fitted. Not sure if i have them rigt. Spent all afternoon gently tapping to get them to turn over to fill up the counter sunk holes. At the end of the afternoon just got one beam done.
Regards
Stephen
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on Dec 8, 2009 10:17:27 GMT
Hi Stephen,
Looks better than my first effort. Just flatten them with a fine file or linisher and fill before painting.
Regards,
Russell.
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Post by drjohn on Dec 8, 2009 12:11:52 GMT
And put some decorative rivets round the edges
DJ
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on Dec 9, 2009 6:42:32 GMT
Decorative rivets may come later. Depends on the money situation. I am getting to the point where i have to by castings and that takes money my wife does not want me to spend.
Regards
Stephen White
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on Dec 9, 2009 9:35:47 GMT
Hi Stephen,
You can save a lot on castings by building up parts from solid instead. I would start with castings for the cyliners (cast iron) the wheels and the axleboxes. Use the original design of horns made from steel bar riveted in place. Then see how your skills and purse progress. It is often easier to build something like a feed pump from solid than to figure out how to hold an awkward shaped casting to machine it.
Rugards,
Russell.
P.S. Use the workshop for a few domestic repairs and it might be easier to get approval for expenditure?
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Dec 9, 2009 20:15:47 GMT
G'day Stephen
How to overcome .
Two things I have done.
1/ Make something for a favourite grandchild, relative, whatever.
2/ Buy a loco. My 0-4-0 is a winner, my wife dotes on it.
Action one allowed me to get away with "scorching" (well there were flames) the kitchen cupboard over the stove.
Get/make something your wife and others can see; because you know where you are heading and why you need it but others don't have your vision.
The old ham radio blokes had ways of getting things past the trouble and strife.
Regards
Ian
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Post by drjohn on Dec 9, 2009 22:34:43 GMT
The old ham radio blokes had ways of getting things past the trouble and strife. Yup - we locked the door and put on the cans, then later divorced the old bag!!! DJ It is amazing how many hams did get divorced back in the 80 / 90's - including one who had a sex change and became Mayoress of Cambridge www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/article1832277.ece ;D ;D |
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Post by atgordon on Dec 9, 2009 22:51:15 GMT
I'm impressed at your progress ... I have a full set of patterns for the wheels - including the larger counter weight for the driven wheel - (and the cylinders) here in the US. I also have a very good local foundry that has cast everything for me at a very reasonable cost.
I haven't machined any of my parts so cannot speak to the casting quality (except it looks good), but Robin Smith (another expat Simplex builder, located in Canada) has and he tells me that the castings are better than those supplied by the Reeves.
Happy to loan the patterns, which are a bit lighter than the final castings ... but given mailing costs, probably best to see if you can find UK patterns. If you can't, it might be worth seeing how much the US castings might cost given that you might be into the shipping of the patterns ... the local foundry was half the cost of Reeves items.
Happy to help if I can, Tony
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on Dec 10, 2009 11:42:22 GMT
All,
The workshop gets used a lot for domestic stuff. Last year i built a 3 metre long maple sofa for the back living room along with fitted cupboards.
Well christmas is already booked with work on the house painting the hall, stairs and landing and gutting the front living room ready for Easter so no (or very little) progress will be made over christmas. so that should keep the wife happy. Plus pheasant shooting season takes up a few days over the christmas period and I need to keep my freezer stocked with prime pheasant breast.
The aim is to use BMS for the horns and I was think of using bronze for the axle blocks. There is a set of castings up for sale on ebay right now (second time around). I hope the price does not go to high.
Regards
Stephen
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on Dec 13, 2009 16:05:50 GMT
All,
I was given the offer yesterday of copper sheet to make the boiler parts. This may b a bit early but it's free and free is always good!
I have figured out I need one tube 18" long but what about the other sections?
Can some one tell me what size pieces i need for each piece?
regards
Stephen
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stephen1234
Active Member
sic transit gloria mundi
Posts: 22
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Post by stephen1234 on May 10, 2010 19:00:08 GMT
Well after a few months away from building the train I decided it was time to make a start. So I measured up the mainframe to start drilling the holes for the fabricated horns. Result is I have found I have made a right mess of the position of the rear 1 1/4" axle position. It's totally in the wrong place and as such have to make the mainframes again. What a disaster!!!  |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 11, 2010 10:14:27 GMT
Welcome to the hobby , those who do not make mistakes make nothing , the only advice I can give you that I don't keep myself is measure twice may be three times before cutting metal. Good luck .
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Post by Phil Sutton on May 11, 2010 19:03:47 GMT
Hi.No need to chuck your frames away.Turn up a steel disk to fit in the mis-drilled hole,fix(silver solder/loctite/WHY )in place,measure again and drill in right place.Simples!  Phil |
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on May 11, 2010 20:27:54 GMT
Result is I have found I have made a right mess of the position of the rear 1 1/4" axle position. It's totally in the wrong place and as such have to make the mainframes again. What a disaster!!! How far out are they? Can you compensate by making the axle boxes asymmetric? Russell. |
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