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Post by John Baguley on Dec 9, 2020 17:04:19 GMT
Hi Pete,
Possibly too late now but could you have replaced the two bolts with studs threaded into the cylinder mounting flange? You could have fitted the nuts on the top then as per prototype.
John
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2020 18:04:00 GMT
Hi Pete, Possibly too late now but could you have replaced the two bolts with studs threaded into the cylinder mounting flange? You could have fitted the nuts on the top then as per prototype. John
Hi John Alas that wasn't an option, I could have down that from above, still could, but along with access I was also struggling to get the bolts up from below. The main reason being the lack of clearance to the holes with the gland cover fitted, I had tried turning down the bolt heads but they still fouled against the gland cover, if the cylinder mounts were threaded it would be even harder to engage the bolts from below. I have fitted the slide bar now but may return to these bolts and do as you suggest and thread the mounting holes. Reason being that if I ever needed to remove the slide bar in service it would be much easier to replace it without having to worry about blindly lining up the nuts, might even be possible with the boiler fitted? Big question mark on this one though...  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2020 21:27:43 GMT
Evening all, it's been a few weeks but I have now uploaded the latest blog entry. This time it's the fitting of the slide bars, well two of them, I'll fit the last bar over the weekend. Note to self, I need scale sized fingers...🙂  4472flyingscotsman.co.uk/slide-bars-2/Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2020 16:33:59 GMT
Another new addition to the workshop, this time it's a custom-built engine stand, this is 7 foot long and stands at nearly 26 inches high. The stand was built for me by Nick Elliot and kindly delivered to me today by Nick and his dad, both of whom I have met previously at the NLSME track. This stand will be my basis for an axle digital weighbridge and rolling road, I'll do a write up on these two modules when I have finished designing/making them so keep an eye out for it, the modules should be able to fit any similar stand with a minimal if any changes to match the stand concerned.  Pete |
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Post by springcrocus on Dec 12, 2020 17:40:58 GMT
Hmm. I would be extremely reluctant to place a heavy loco on that stand without a few additions to it. What is to stop the legs doing a concertina impression and leaving you with a ground-level rolling road? I think the addition of some angled braces between the legs may be worth considering.
Regards, Steve
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2020 17:49:06 GMT
Hmm. I would be extremely reluctant to place a heavy loco on that stand without a few additions to it. What is to stop the legs doing a concertina impression and leaving you with a ground-level rolling road? I think the addition of some angled braces between the legs may be worth considering. Regards, Steve Funny you should say that Steve, I do have plans to add cross stays...the stand itself is strong enough to support the weight involved but as I'll be rolling the chassis along it's length, cross stays would be prudent. I'll cover this when I do the mods. Kind regards Pete |
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Post by runner42 on Dec 13, 2020 23:28:56 GMT
Hi Pete,
I agree that modifications are required at the bottom of the trolley. I also think that the castors are too small, firstly I assume that they are rated for the load that you intend placing on them. Your 4-6-2 tender locomotive is heavier than mine and I find that with larger diameter castors it is difficult but not impossible to push the trolley over in your case mats and a wooden floor, an uneven surface. I have a concrete floor. The issue is that the castors are not always aligned to the direction that movement is required and the weight on them makes self alignment an effort. But it depends on the quality of the castors I suppose.
Brian
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2020 23:52:50 GMT
Hi Pete, I agree that modifications are required at the bottom of the trolley. I also think that the castors are too small, firstly I assume that they are rated for the load that you intend placing on them. Your 4-6-2 tender locomotive is heavier than mine and I find that with larger diameter castors it is difficult but not impossible to push the trolley over in your case mats and a wooden floor, an uneven surface. I have a concrete floor. The issue is that the castors are not always aligned to the direction that movement is required and the weight on them makes self alignment an effort. But it depends on the quality of the castors I suppose. Brian Hi Brian Thanks for the advice, I agree and have already given some thought to this. Yes, as is will run on carpets and uneven flooring, moving the stand with the loco on it would be a bad move. I have already worked out a design with cross braces to strengthen things greatly, in fact the matetial and suitable bolts has already been ordered. I'm told the casters are rated for 200kg and there's 6 of them? Even if they are much less I think they should hold 4472's 100+kg? I'll test it with my weight first which must be close to the finished model. I'll cover the mods when done but there will be cross bracing at the bottom of the legs, 2 longitudinal stays with truss supports from them up to the rails. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry, I tend to build overkill anyway.. Hopefully, I'll show all this with the weighing scale bridge installed and tested with the model. Materils should be here Wednesday/Thursday and shouldn't take long to erect. Kind regards Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2020 17:00:08 GMT
Hi guys I have now made the engine stand able to withstand some serious abuse, what I mean is I can safely push it around over bumps etc with the loco sitting on top and be confident that it can handle the weight/forces involved. It's had a small test, me sitting on it in various positions and rolling up and down the workshop, no! there is not any video of this...ok...  I think the picture shows what I have done which is basically to triangulate the structure. The upper section is now like a ladder frame which I have used a lot in TV/film rigs, very strong, the legs have now been cross-braced with there also being a fixing where they cross. The material used is 25x5 mm alloy to match what the original uprights were made from. The flat base seen between the rails at close to the midway point is the base for the axle digital weighbridge. I'll finish this next week and test the loco axle weights, I won't try to set the axles up yet as there's still a lot of weight to add but I will make notes to see where we are. I have the prototype's weight percentage per axle noted down so that will be what I set things at eventually. My son is going to paint the stand for me when he can fit it in, he's going to spray it in an epoxy resin paint so should be pretty chip resistant. Colour will be black, I wonder what it would look like in LNER Doncaster green??, think best to do it in black though... Pete |
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Post by silverfox on Dec 18, 2020 17:06:43 GMT
Peter
You disappoint me with your frame colour
I was expecting Doncaster green fully lined out.
Oh well another dream shattered lol
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waggy
Statesman
Posts: 747
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Post by waggy on Dec 18, 2020 17:13:21 GMT
Hello Pete,
Do I spy a clue you’re also a keeper of Koi?
Waggy.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2020 17:40:36 GMT
Ron... what are you trying to do to me?... Doncaster green with the lining... crikey anyone would think that I'm going to live forever... Yes Waggy, we have Koi, well they really belong to my eldest son but he left years ago...the pond has been in the garden in one form or another for approx 20 years, many of the fish have been resident since then too, big buggers now. Alas, I recently deleted a lot of the photo's off my phone to make space, the only one that I can find with fish on Imgur is this one where you can just spot one of the smaller fish. We lost a few this year, I suspect that next door sprayed some weed killer...grrr I've set it to give a large image to give a change of seeing the fish, we have a few Koi, plus some other varieties including a common carp and grass carp. Unfortunately, when we lost the fish recently they included the catfish and sturgeon, both very big fish.  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2020 17:15:47 GMT
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Post by coniston on Dec 20, 2020 22:32:52 GMT
That's fantastic Pete, ordering one myself. I trust you don't mind us copying your excellent design? The B1 I have has serious weight distribution problems as it is very front heavy, pretty much like the full size so I want to try some ideas to get more even balance and if I adapt this to use at our track on one of the steaming bays I can check the other two B1's in the club to make a comparison.
Thanks
Chris D
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2020 23:11:40 GMT
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Post by flyingfox on Dec 21, 2020 7:54:49 GMT
Greetings Pete, this looks a clever idea, and I would like to copy it, but sadly, the link is via your personal ebay account, and, so rightly, access is barred. However, just using the item number works fine.
many thanks for this simple solution to a longstanding problem.
regards
Brian B
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,864
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Post by uuu on Dec 21, 2020 7:55:19 GMT
I think the link is personal to you - but search for the ebay item number 303569406894 brings it up OK.
Wilf
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2020 8:56:03 GMT
Oh?.. sorry chaps, glad you have managed to find the item, I think most bathroom scales could be used. I selected this particular one for the Blue Tooth ability and the fact that the images showed the underside where I could see how easy it is to detach the parts. This particular set of scales is good as the sensors are just clipped into the plastic base, I have seen others where they are part of the base. Such a scale could still be used but would require a little more work. Happy that you guys are finding this useful, the original idea in using bathroom scales was from a chap in Australia, I have just taken it a step further.. Cheers Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2020 10:01:01 GMT
A little more info re-weighing Even though the figures given in the measuring of the axles in my latest blog entry made sense, that is the total figure and differences between the axles looked correct and I got the same readings from 3 measuring sessions my head was still having trouble accepting the figures. My reasoning for questioning the process was that even when measuring each axle independently I was having trouble accepting that this would give the actual loading weight on each axle as surely some of the weight was still being supported by the rest of the chassis and all I was achieving measuring each axle was the weight of that mass plus any parts attached, not the actual axle loading? I, therefore, asked the guys who really know the subject, that is those who work on the full size for how they weigh the old lady. It is basically the same, they fit the scales in the pit and measure each axle, actually, they measure each wheel, I can do that too but didn't see the need at this stage of the build. Once all wheels have been weighed, they run the engine for a hundred yards or so and remeasure, just as I did when rolling the chassis along the track. The difference here though is that I got the same figures each time, I'm told that with the full size the readings change and then have to be redone, again and again, the word tedious was used... Adjustment, of course, is done by adjusting the springs until they measure the correct tonnage. As stated in my blog, I know what the percentages were in full size and will use these on the final setting up of the model when complete. IIRC the percentages were changed after first built to even out the main drivers at 20 tons each rather than having more weight on the leading driver. I'll see what works best when I get there. Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2020 18:15:20 GMT
Hi Guys I have noted on here lately how my son and my son-in-law have been supplying me with some metal stock and cutters etc as their work closes down, I've had an awful lot of gear to date. My son-in-law dropped off some more pieces on two separate occasions over the last couple of weeks. Last week was some steel, alloy and some nylon 66 bar along with some clear acrylic, I'm sure that I'll find a job for them, if anyone needs anything like these and is close by, let me know and I'll see what I have, after covid lockdown, of course. Today there was some more steel including two large sections of flat bar. On checking the label and the BS code it seems that I have some good quality tool steel/gauge plate, I suppose they are the same thing? The lumps are wrapped in greaseproof paper which is normal for this type of steel. The problem is, how the hell am I going to cut this into manageable sizes? one is metric at 500x250x20mm and the other is imperial at 18x10x3/4 ". I could only just lift these pieces of steel individually. Any ideas guys/ my chop saw blade is kaput, along with my small bandsaw blade, even with fresh blades neither would be up to this task.  Pete |
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