uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,860
|
Post by uuu on May 28, 2014 6:19:38 GMT
But model engineers are a stingy lot, present company excepted. They'd just buy one and copy it.
|
|
|
|
Post by ronhancock on May 29, 2014 18:31:58 GMT
And in common with Classic Bikes/Cars it's also a great way of haemorrhaging cash from your Bank account !!  New Bikes can be the same i sponsored my son for years last year TZ250 year 2000 also ZX10R 2009 now broke and enjoying Trains but agree also expensive. Wish i had kept my British Bikes especially Velocette Clubman Rocket Gold Star SS norton Sold very cheap all like new now would be worth a fortune |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2014 21:43:23 GMT
Julian--------- more useful than a book would be a downloadable pdf file with your contributions from this forum PLUS the "words and music" about your workshop tools used on the job involved........... A small list of to-days suppliers and extracts from current Rules and Regs..........There you are, almost writes itself really.... True, but a book would bring a monetary reward for all of the effort. -----------money ??, I've heard of that somewhere but it's more elusive than a straight answer from a politician LoL ! |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on May 29, 2014 21:59:50 GMT
'Money' reminds me of when a piece of land next to the IWMES club track and site came up for sale... as club secretary and with a certain legal background i was entrusted with the negociations... the adjoining landowner made it quite clear that whatever amount we offered he would outbid us! he topped our bids and paid cash for the title deeds without any searches being carried out or the usual legal niceties.
a year or so later he was charged with being part of a counterfeit rackett and sentenced at the Old Bailey along with many others. alongside our club track in a shed was found a load of machinery for printing forged coinage etc. elsewhere were printing presses for bank notes. no wonder he could top any bid we made for the land!
cheers,
julian
|
|
shooter
Part of the e-furniture
If it 'aint broke....don't fix it!
Posts: 252
|
Post by shooter on May 30, 2014 7:35:52 GMT
Hi Julian, Nice to see the circles you move in. Do you still have access to the shed?? A quick fettle and we could be up and running....
Cheers from poor hard up Steve!!
|
|
|
|
Post by ejparrott on May 30, 2014 9:58:14 GMT
Poetic justice?
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 30, 2014 16:13:24 GMT
That might explain why for many years after the IWMES magazine had the faint image of the Queens head on each page  |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 1, 2014 22:02:14 GMT
not much to show for this weekend's work - been making the top water gauge fitting elbows out of hard drawn phos bronze. quite fiddly (or at least the way ive approached making them!). about a dozen milling and turning, drilling and tapping operations on each so far and havent finished them yet! in due course they will get silver soldered to the boiler same time as the backhead and all the remaining bits are done.
ive copied don young's method of fitting the blower valve and longitudinal hollow stay on his DONCASTER, and the blower valve will be a slightly modified version of don's excellent captive blower valve design also pinched from DONCASTER. the BOXHILL boiler fittings are quite horrendous and huge and chunky, plus not captive valves.
i remember some idiot once unscrewing totally the spindle of a non captive blower valve once when stopping for a 'blow up'. despite a careful search we never found the original blower valve spindle!
cheers,
julian
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 1, 2014 22:43:16 GMT
here's a recent pic of Jim Scott's excellent 5"g terrier. pic taken at the recent Harrogate exhibition. Jim's miniature version has been an inspiration to me. note the beautifully home made numberplates by Jim whereas mine are commercial dianne carney ones. cheers, julian  |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 3, 2014 22:54:05 GMT
i have nearly finished making the pesky water gauge top elbows out of hard drawn phos bronze. the BOXHILL design shows only one rather large chunky water gauge whereas fullsize had 2 water gauges of neat size and shape that varied over the years. anyway here's a pic of them trial fitted to the backhead with a spare sort of scale top water gauge fitting i'd made previously. there is a threaded outlet on the right hand gauge elbow top fitting for an adapter to fit the pressure gauge pipe. ive made the water gauge top elbows as small as i dare out of hard drawn phos bronze. they are clearance hole in the outer boiler wrapper then tapped into the backhead. there is also a hard drawn phos bronze manifold/turret bush fitted between the 2 elbows also threaded into the backhead flange. hopefully will hold everything together when i get round to silver soldering the backhead in position! cheers, julian  |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 3, 2014 23:08:41 GMT
this might be a slightly better pic of the overall view of the backhead and top water gauge elbows..  |
|
|
|
Post by runner42 on Jun 3, 2014 23:52:36 GMT
Hi Julian,
it's coming along nicely. It is suprising how long it takes to make the fittings for the boiler and it's ancillary equipment. The external thread size for the water gauge looks a little unusual, do you religiously use thread forms specified i.e ME or British Standard Brass?
Brian |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 4, 2014 0:04:06 GMT
hi brian,
thanks for your kind comments!
i use ME threads for all boiler stuff. ive quite a few odd sizes amassed over the years but all the above are bog standard ie 5/16 x 32 tpi ME thread and 1/4" x 40 tpi ME thread. the blower valve bush on the smokebox tubeplate is threaded 3/8" x 40 tpi to match the 1/4" x 40 tpi thread on the hollow longitudinal blower stay/pipe, 3/8" x 40 tpi being one of the 'special' sizes. you can see the rear end of the blower pipe poking through the backhead. it will get threaded and fitted to size in due course when all the bushes etc and backhead have been silver soldered to the backhead and the backhead silver soldered in position. so only 2 more (hopefully) heat ups required - sub assembly of bushes on backhead with high melting point silverflo 24, then backhead to boiler plus rear foundation ring and all remaining backhead stays and the water gauge elbows and the firehole ring with easyflo 2, and the longitudinal stays.
the 'spare' fitting of the water gauge top fitting has a 5/16 x 32 tpi thread for the gland nut. on STEPNEY's fittings i reckon i can go down to 9/32" x 32 tpi (a special size) so having 5/16 AF hex gland nuts instead of 3/8 AF hex.
i was always taught (many years ago) to try and make boiler fittings as scale and small as possible and practicable, by someone who made 'chunky' LBSC type fittings commercially for the ME trade, but made his own fittings for his own locos of much finer proportions! then along came roy amesbury who showed what really could be done in miniature with loco fittings! not all of what roy advocated is practicable for us mere mortals, but don young in his later designs showed what was still possible and practical. unfortunately martin evans never followed suit. incidentally i have some early bassett lowke fittings (and injectors) and before LBSC you would be shocked by how enormous and chunky and large pre LBSC boiler fittings were!
cheers,
julian
|
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jun 4, 2014 5:08:18 GMT
Hi Julian,
I'm trying to picture what the unseen part of those elbows look like, the part that goes into the outer wrapper. Have you turned that part of the elbow down and then threaded the outside? Maybe you tapped them and made a hollow phosphor bronze threaded tube to join the two?
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 5, 2014 23:44:35 GMT
hi roger,
yes the elbows have a threaded spigot machined on same to fit into the outer wrapper/backhead.
this is a bit of an aside from the boiler build, but allied to same. have spent this evening tapping the inner dome bush and backhead regulator flange/bush. this i find far more nerve wracking than silver soldering up the joints! i used HSS 6BA taps plus a new No. 44 drill on the backhead regulator bush. a broken tap in any boiler part is quite a horrendous problem! as would be a crossed or stripped thread. i machine phos bronze 'dry' but use rocol compound when tapping/threading same. i use a small drill chuck fitted to a wooden handle for tapping same by hand rather than use a tap wrench.
cheers,
julian
|
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jun 6, 2014 6:40:50 GMT
hi roger, yes the elbows have a threaded spigot machined on same to fit into the outer wrapper/backhead. this is a bit of an aside from the boiler build, but allied to same. have spent this evening tapping the inner dome bush and backhead regulator flange/bush. this i find far more nerve wracking than silver soldering up the joints! i used HSS 6BA taps plus a new No. 44 drill on the backhead regulator bush. a broken tap in any boiler part is quite a horrendous problem! as would be a crossed or stripped thread. i machine phos bronze 'dry' but use rocol compound when tapping/threading same. i use a small drill chuck fitted to a wooden handle for tapping same by hand rather than use a tap wrench. cheers, julian Hi Julian, So how do you make it sit at the right height for Silver Soldering on? Do you do a trial fitting and then machine the face if it's not sitting right in the same way you described for the cylinder drain cocks? I presume you don't want it sitting down tightly so that Silver Solder can get right underneath it. If so, how much clearance do you aim for? I'm curious to know why you don't thread all of the bushes before Silver Soldering them into the boiler. Those with a plain thread don't matter about the position, and any that need alignment could have a simple fixture to locate them while they're being Silver Soldered. If all the holes are tapped before attaching them, those other issues don't occur. If you get some Silver Solder in any of the holes, they would easily tap out again without any difficulty. |
|
|
|
Post by ejparrott on Jun 6, 2014 9:56:37 GMT
Silver solder does not tap that easy, it's surprisingly hard on small threads.
Threads for boiler bushes should never be finish tapped from the off, always after silver soldering. Heating can damage the threads, and a boiler with damaged threads is no good to anyone.
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,919
|
Post by jma1009 on Jun 10, 2014 22:38:46 GMT
ive eventually made the rear section of the foundation ring and silver soldered same to the backhead plus the regulator rod bush with silverflo 24. note that the foundation ring section is milled out and carefully shaped and fitted to the shape of the rear of the inner firebox (not shown). milled out of 1/4" x 1/2" copper section. the advantage of the sub assembly with high melting point stuff is 2 less potentially awkward joints to worry about when fitting the backhead to the rest of the boiler. plus no risk of the rear section of the foundation ring shifting and so no need for any more rivets. only one heat up required to fix same to finish the silver soldering on the boiler! however the last heat up is the BIG one, with lots to do as quickly as possible when up to heat! cheers, julian  |
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jun 11, 2014 9:35:38 GMT
Absolutely superb, thank heavens for posting all this, it's going to be so useful when I come to make mine.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2014 15:04:37 GMT
Good luck Julian! Can't wait to see the finished product!
|
|
