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Post by runner42 on Jun 18, 2014 0:35:46 GMT
Hi Julian,
interestingly wondered how you managed to remove the water pump without loosing pressure, but I have sussed it. The small valve at the bottom RHS of the firebox is the pump connection which you closed before removing the connection. With that hot sun on it did it alter the pressure after time? Are you required to repeat the pressure test when the regulator is installed?
Brian
PS the AMBSC Code Part 1 requires the butt strap used to extend the RHS firebox wrapper to be riveted. I don't know if that this is just an aid to assembly or to increase the strength of the butt joint?
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Post by ejparrott on Jun 18, 2014 7:37:58 GMT
Another test will be required once all boiler fittings are made and fitted, but this will only be to 1.5xWP.
You need a bigger gauge Julian! Should only really use 60% of gauge travel for prolonged accuracy, according to the experts...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2014 8:12:22 GMT
Top stuff Julian.. congrats in order..
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2014 10:20:36 GMT
200 smakeroonies, on the nose !!............Way to go, Batman !! TRANSLATION}---------- 200 lbs per square inch pressure obtained, and held !!........This is indeed an achievement of note, young Mr. Julian !! ------------------PS, that hedgerow needs thinning !! |
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 22, 2014 22:14:50 GMT
thanks pete and alan for the above very kind comments.
i havent done much in the workshop this last week - apart from repair the electric hedge clipper cable i'd 'clipped' through!
the boiler has been regularly pumped up. the regulator body is temporarily fitted and the 2 bolts fixing same have only a smear of hermatite sealant at the moment and drip occasionally - it only takes a few drips to knock the hydraulic pressure back. im trying to keep the pressure up so the plates can settle down and harden up from their annealed state.
i have tidied up a few runs of the silver solder. i have also nearly finished working out the details of the Stroudley firehole door parts. quite a fiendish contrivance in miniature! i nearly made the mistake of fitting the tray above the firehole (to which the firehole door assembly is attached to) in the scale position immediately above the firehole, then realised i'd never be able to see the fire! so it will be a bit higher than scale, as a good view of the fire i regard as very important when driving (this would be a problem with anyone following the 7.25"g don young NEWPORT design).
Jim Scott has very kindly sent me a spare set of superheater elements of radiant stainless type made for his own 5"g terrier EARLSWOOD, for which i am incredibly grateful. STEPNEY will therefore be my first loco with radiant superheaters.
cheers,
julian
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Post by runner42 on Jun 22, 2014 23:20:47 GMT
the boiler has been regularly pumped up. the regulator body is temporarily fitted and the 2 bolts fixing same have only a smear of hermatite sealant at the moment and drip occasionally - it only takes a few drips to knock the hydraulic pressure back. im trying to keep the pressure up so the plates can settle down and harden up from their annealed state. cheers, julian Hi Julian, as ever a wealth of information is gleaned from your posts. I understand to my costs how vulnerable copper boilers are in the annealed state after silver soldering. My first effort a Rob Roy boiler I stood on end on the cluttered bench and it fell sideways and the boiler barrel was dented by a pair of pliers that it struck. Your method of hastening the hardening of the copper is worth remembering. I expect you will make a set of stainless steel screws when you fit the regulator? Brian |
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,920
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 22, 2014 23:45:11 GMT
hi brian.
stainless fitted bolts already made and fitted for the regulator body! but they will get fixed with loctite when ive finished all the other regulator parts
cheers,
julian
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 24, 2014 21:54:58 GMT
Julian. You say you keep pumping up the boiler to speed up the hardening of the plates. To what pressure ? Working ? Looking forward to seeing some pics of the regulator and fire hole door  Andrew |
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,920
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 25, 2014 21:04:36 GMT
hi andrew, ive started the firehole door assembly and have made the tray which has the hinges for the door attached. a mini reverser goes on a quadrant on the lefthand side to open the door inwards  here's a pic of STEPNEY's tray and firehole door in fullsize. it has to be unbolted and removed to allow inspection of the inner firebox  ive got to make the door itself next which will be fun and games. cheers, julian |
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Post by Roger on Jun 25, 2014 22:32:37 GMT
What a strange arrangement, I can't get my head round why it's like that.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2014 22:51:22 GMT
---------- maybe because the designer thought that green was Yellow ??
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 26, 2014 7:07:35 GMT
I would think Rodger for the same reason that the merchant navy's had chain driven valve gear.... innovation . (all be it a different design engineer ). The other more practical reason is in such a small cab it won't take the drivers legs out every time the fireman tries to put some coal on. You could describe it as thinking out side the box or is that inside  Andrew |
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,920
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 26, 2014 7:29:05 GMT
George Ray or Ben will have to help here, but the Stroudley firehole door is almost identical to the Webb firehole door.
the door opens inwards and so no deflector plate is needed. i suppose also you dont have to fully open the door if only a small amount of coal is being added.
cheers,
julian
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2014 8:29:54 GMT
The fire door on a Terrier is a very simple thing as seen in Julian's picture.
Basically a handle with latch on a quadrant (similar to a pole reverser) so the door can be latched in many positions between open and shut. This is attached to the flap type door by one curved shape link.
I would imagine the reasons for the design are simplicity (lack of moving parts compared with the levers and sliding door plates of a normal sliding door type) and lack of space on the backhead.
As an aside the King Arthurs, S15s et al have a similar arrangement albeit with a spring loaded roller instead of a latch on the handle.
Both also have a flap at the bottom which can be lifted up to restrict air when the door is open.
Ben
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Post by GeorgeRay on Jun 26, 2014 8:32:36 GMT
Not surprisingly it is similar to Stroudley's foreman (Dugald Drummond) door as fitted to the T9 it's also on the S15. The door acts as a cold air deflector and can be used to adjust the amount of top air without the use of a separate deflector plate. It's also much easier to operate that a heavy sliding door arrangement. As Ben says they all have a separate lower plate which is flicked up with a chain to regulate the air.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2014 9:04:58 GMT
[quote author=" Andrew C" You could describe it as thinking out side the box or is that inside Andrew[/quote] ---------------------GROAN !!! No one picked - up on this one did they ??....Nice one, ANDREW  |
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Post by Roger on Jun 26, 2014 9:28:48 GMT
All clever stuff, I've only ever seen the plain doors and the sliding ones.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2014 10:55:53 GMT
See if anyone can find a pic of Met 1s firehole door, it's kinda the same idea as the stroudley flap apart from its a round hole with a round dish shape door which seals against the inside of the firebox when shut!!
Totally mad!
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,920
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 26, 2014 12:11:46 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2014 16:32:03 GMT
------and thanks to you JULIAN as well because I can see how the cream colour only comes halfway down on this loco as well.............
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