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Post by modeng2000 on Jun 24, 2012 15:39:38 GMT
Would the cutter be anything like a tin opener?  John |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 16:35:45 GMT
Thanks for that Alan.
I once made up a veneer strip cutter using two razor blades clamped on a spacer of the required width. Are you suggesting something similar or am I wide of the mark?
Details would be appreciated.
John
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Post by AndrewP on Jun 24, 2012 18:18:32 GMT
I am asking Alan, I have an image of something like a double disc pizza cutter.
Andy
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Post by alanstepney on Jun 24, 2012 20:36:37 GMT
You can find expensive rotary shears, although they arent really suitable for that job. The old fashioned ones used by tinsmiths and tinkers would be ideal. Finding one is likely to range from triicky to impossible! Two pictures: www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350435_200350435www.cmmachinery.co.uk/index.cfm/page/products/cat/1/sub/30/key/145should give some ideas. I would make one with one wheel with a flange, much like a loco wheel, the width of "tread" being the size you want the strip to be. (Or make it larger<wider tread> and fit sleeves to suit the size wanted at the time.) The edge/corner opposite the flange MUST be sharp, and hardened. To hold the steel strip against the aforesaid wheel, I would use a small wheel preferably with a rubber tyre, and pressed against the main wheel with a spring. Meeting the corner is another wheel, this sharpened to give a nice cutting edge right against the main wheel, and also hardened. (Heck, it taking as long to describe it as it would to make one! lol) So, the strip site on top of a wheel. It cant move sideways in one direction due to the flange. The operator needs to ensure it stays pressed against the flange to keep the width constant. Turn handle (fixed to main wheel-I forgot to mention that) and the rubber wheel will keep the strip held down and moving. As it passes the cutting wheel, it will cut, the right width. Warning, the piece cut off, if small, will twist and have some nasty sharp edges. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2012 20:41:50 GMT
Thanks Alan, looks like I might have bitten off more than I want to chew!
JB
PS: Temperature hit 38 C here today: phew!
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Post by Jim on Jun 26, 2012 22:12:54 GMT
Hi John,
38C! Great weather for a soothing ale or two. ;D
As an alternative to steel boiler bands would you consider tinned brass strip? Knowing the poor paint holding qualities of brass I've found tinning it first then wiped clean works very well.
K&S have the brass strips in hobby shops in various lengths.
Jim
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 27, 2012 6:06:54 GMT
If you then use a good etching primer on the bands after rubbing them with wire wool they should be ok.
Andrew
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Post by durhambuilder on Jun 27, 2012 18:27:17 GMT
I've just checked my ex wiper blade stainless steel, 0.190" wide x 0.017" thick and 24" long, I'll have to store it somewhere safe for when I do my boiler bands. Are there similar problems getting paint to stick to stainless?
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 27, 2012 21:49:38 GMT
I would use etching primer on stainless, it works the best.
Some top coats react to it so try on a pice of scrap first.
Andrew
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2012 18:51:48 GMT
Hello Folks! I'm back in the land of the living after a little 5000 mile jaunt around France and Spain. Mind you, when I was in Tesco's the other day I wasn't quite sure......
Got the Brit out from under the bed today, and I spent a happy hour or two making the new 'ears' for the cab. Mighty fiddly I might add.
I've decided to put the Brit into the ME expo at Sandown again: it'll give me an incentive to make some progress before then!
Pictures start tomorrow!
JB
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2012 20:54:26 GMT
Cab ears and reverser shaft Nothing much to report, a bit difficult to get back into the swing of it! Photobucket isn't working right now so here are two posts. The new ears were fiddly, but the toolmaker's clamp and a piece of tool steel saved the day! I'll fit them onto a solid piece and fix that to the cab. JB Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2012 20:56:14 GMT
The reverser shaft needed another universal joint, and I was lucky to get the exit hole in the cab in roughly the right place! JB Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2012 21:07:54 GMT
looks great JB..... looks like she's getting close to a test run....  Pete |
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Post by Jim on Oct 20, 2012 3:20:39 GMT
Sounds like you had a great break drifting round the Continent John
It's nice to see both you and Pete back on site.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2012 20:44:17 GMT
Cardan Shaft sizing
Now I've done the reverser drive (1/8") I'm guessing that the outer tube would be around 3" on the prototype so would be 3/16" on my little 'un! But it could be 4".....!
Can anyone confirm this thinking please?
Thanks
JB
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Post by Jim on Oct 20, 2012 23:46:27 GMT
John I've checked the GA drawing I have and while detail is not great (lots of dotted lines for hidden components) the outer tube works out at 4-7/8" or more probably 5" in real life. The Perrier drawings make the tube .5" in 5"g. Not sure if this is any great help.  Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2012 9:49:04 GMT
John I've checked the GA drawing I have and while detail is not great (lots of dotted lines for hidden components) the outer tube works out at 4-7/8" or more probably 5" in real life. The Perrier drawings make the tube .5" in 5"g. Not sure if this is any great help. Jim Thanks Jim. Just to add to my confusion I suddenly remembered (it's my age!) that I have a 1/16th GA on the wall! I found the tube clearly drawn, just in front of the firebox, and it's exactly 1/4", making full size 4" dia. I just happen to have a nice bit of brass tube the right size..... JB |
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Post by Jim on Oct 21, 2012 10:58:51 GMT
It's nice isn't it when you have just the thing to do the job. The tube should look spot on.
Jim.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2012 13:42:46 GMT
It's nice isn't it when you have just the thing to do the job. The tube should look spot on. Jim. Jim, you are right! Brass tube and dummy joining flange to be held in with araldite. It is in two parts so I could put a centre bearing in as well as the ones at the ends. I made a a silver soldered flange for the cab front but it was just too fiddly!  A spot of primer to see how it looks against the rest. I'm holding down the other side of the cab to take the photo! Cab ears next! JB  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2012 17:11:18 GMT
Cab Ears Hopefully I will know in the morning if this araldited repair has been successful! The new 3/8" lugs will make useful mounting points for the valances (I hope!). JB  BTW I use the Clarke linisher more and more as a filing machine. Here's how I got a nice clean 55 degree angle on the lugs:  |
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