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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2012 16:21:28 GMT
Cover plate works for me too John... ..  Pete Sort of like this....?  BTW a rivet at each corner will soon flatten it out! That's the last job 'til after Christmas! Best wishes to all. JB  |
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Dec 22, 2012 17:11:48 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2012 18:18:28 GMT
very nice John...
Pete
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Post by Jim on Dec 22, 2012 22:11:32 GMT
I'd agree with Pete, that looks pretty good John.  Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2012 16:14:37 GMT
Reverser Screw rod cover As some on here might have predicted, I didn't feel that my last effort was quite good enough, and after looking again at a few proto pics I decided to have a proper go so to to speak. Process follows below as I know you all like pics! Cut and file slot and obtain correct 5 degree slope (well, nearly) and get the lips at the correct angle to sit on the round cover. The jeweller's saw station was very useful for this, and the clamps stop the 18 20g brass from distorting while being worked.  Fluxed and frogged!  Straight out of the water and cleaned with a wire brush.  Back of job removed with the saw, a device that I find myself using more and more these days as it removes so little metal and is so controllable.   A spot of U-pol to see if the marks come out!  It fits! Polly Models are doing miniature hex bolts, so I won't drill/tap/rivet until I've got some really small ones. JB  |
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Dec 29, 2012 16:49:44 GMT
Thats much better.
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Post by sncf141r on Dec 29, 2012 17:17:39 GMT
Great work as usual.
BTW - regarding the saw - one of the productive builders "over here" told me once that it was often faster to file than to set something up in the mill; (we were talking purchasing his atlas horizontal mill) but I'd readily expect that the same would apply by him in this situation.
We are so poised to expect to have to use expensive equipment when the reality is that it is not needed all the time.
Another JohnS.
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Post by Jim on Dec 29, 2012 21:03:31 GMT
......and like the original too, good on you John. Those Eclipse jewelers saws are handy tools aren't they? Jim |
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Post by drumkilbo on Dec 30, 2012 10:56:16 GMT
Lovely bit of work John, and nice to see the step by step pics.
Ian
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2012 12:31:10 GMT
Livery?
I'll be painting these running boards soon, and although JJ was kind enough to send me copies of his livery specs, I can't quite make up my mind about the board colour. Black at the front only? Tops black and valances green? etc. etc...
Any suggestions?
Thanks
JB
BTW Happy New Year!
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Post by Jim on Dec 31, 2012 13:19:45 GMT
I'm going with tops black and valances green John...'cos I like it. Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2012 13:27:53 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2012 13:39:21 GMT
Thanks both. I think that all green looks potentially less 'busy', and I would be on the horns of a dilemma over the colour of the cardan shaft if I did black tops! Trouble is, all my photos are B & W and "For those of you without a colour set, the pink is behind the green....."
BTW that's a proud man I see standing there John!
JB
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terryhowlett
Active Member
Actually retired (almost as planned) in late 2019.
Posts: 47 
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Post by terryhowlett on Dec 31, 2012 16:43:26 GMT
Hello John,
Glad to see the Brit continues to progresses into such a fine piece of engineering.
We're spending more time in Hampshire again now so maybe I'll get the chance to see progress first hand again in the new year!
Will you be at the ME Exhibition on the 19th? I'm planning to spend the day there.
Cheers
Terry
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2012 17:09:26 GMT
Hello John, We're spending more time in Hampshire again now so maybe I'll get the chance to see progress first hand again in the new year! Will you be at the ME Exhibition on the 19th? I'm planning to spend the day there. Cheers Terry Hi Terry. Yes, it's coming along nicely. We don't know where we will be this January as we are both thoroughly hissed off with this weather, and might just find ourselves some warmer climes: or we might just dream of finer weather here: www.caravanshows.com/Unfortunately,. it conflicts with said ME show. Just give me a call, and don't forget to bring your blunt drills, and, if possible, some Gin! John PS: No one's noticed the motif on my new notepad..... |
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terryhowlett
Active Member
Actually retired (almost as planned) in late 2019.
Posts: 47
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Post by terryhowlett on Dec 31, 2012 17:35:42 GMT
Hmmm, so I looked at your notepad and tried to decipher "NDW 190.....". I was puzzled, so called Karen in and of course she spotted I was reading it upside down! We certainly don't think your a grumpy old man! :-)
T
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Post by Jim on Jan 1, 2013 4:42:56 GMT
I'm going with tops black and valances green John...'cos I like it. Hmmmm I'm wavering now  Looked at JJ's loco and the photo of 70013 at Loughborough and now think the green tops on the footplates actually gives the loco a nice 'unified' look and of course it is the correct livery. So that's it I'm going with green tops now...sorry about that John.  50c! You can soon die of thirst in that as sadly happens here all to often. Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2013 22:24:28 GMT
After being inspired by Richard's coupling posts, I couldn't resist this particular challenge while I'm waiting for my new nuts to arrive.... I'll clean it up tomorrow and publish a few pics. It doesn't need too much as I use Cupalloys silver solder paste which is God's gift to Inspector Meticulus! JB    |
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RLWP
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 319
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Post by RLWP on Jan 3, 2013 23:14:57 GMT
The madness is spreading!
Nice work, a different mechanism too (sliding bar)
Richard
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2013 18:21:17 GMT
Here are a few pics for the making of the coupling. Here are all the bits. The 8BA sample screw was 'shortened' somewhat! I'll put a little groove in the unthreaded portion of the shaft and tighten the top screws into it, thus permitting rotation.  Getting a perfect joint. First and foremost it was imperative to get the ends of the U bend to the correct radius to sit perpendicular to the bearings. I used a 1/4" end mill, but it bounces a little in this small stuff so light cuts are required! This approach avoids making a fixture and the cramp is used instead to hold the work accurately. Don't do it up too tight as you will end up with a bow shackle after heating to red.....  Soldering Up There is just a one mm sized spot of paste in the joint. Using the paste has meant that I haven't had to take a file to any one of the four joints, just emery cloth. The centre spacer is oversize on diameter and filed off flat at the base to locate the bearings centrally in the shackle. It was removed before soldering!  Centre pieces These were cross drilled and tapped 8BA. I try not to play with small pieces, preferring to start a parting tool on a length of rod where the cuts will occur and drill in the vice before final parting off.  End Result, now cleaned and polished. There are a few bumps and scratches but I can't see them from two feet away! JB Gawd, I hope my new nuts arrive soon....  |
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Looked at JJ's loco and the photo of 70013 at Loughborough and now think the green tops on the footplates actually gives the loco a nice 'unified' look and of course it is the correct livery. So that's it I'm going with green tops now...sorry about that John. 