|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2013 19:37:21 GMT
nice work John...  Pete |
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Jan 5, 2013 0:31:26 GMT
I agree with Pete, you have done a splendid job John..another bit of jewelery in fact.  On a different tack I'm amazed at the advances in medical science, fancy being able to get replacement nuts!  Jim |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2013 9:00:15 GMT
another bit of jewelery in fact. Jim Thanks Jim, Pete & Richard. I now understand why Polly charges £39 for these, (with a sprung hook thrown in)! JB |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 19:39:29 GMT
LHS Valances fitted I decided against the long plank approach and went for something more prototypical. A small fixture was made to drill the plates accurately. There is no need for anything complicated as the holes are equidistant from the edges. The centre drill was the correct clearance size for 1.2mm screws. The 3/8" wide workpiece sits on a piece of 3/8 brass packed with a very thin brass shim to give slight clearance. The top piece of steel is the end stop. Just insert the workpiece,drill, and turn the work over and drill again - having first brushed out the gap...!  Drilling the holes with a 1mm drill in a 15000rpm drill by hand could be a bit dodgy, so to make life easier I used a piece of angle to position the valance plate - used as a guide-, and put a small washer over the drill to stop the chuck marking the workpiece when it breaks through.  Tapping the 1.2mm holes could also be a bit dodgy.....but the HSS tap is remarkeably flexible, and the pin vice provides remarkable sensitivity. Well, I got through 20 of the buggers without breaking the tap!  Now to connect the plates to the brass angle. I made a couple of nutplates a long time ago, 1/8" and 3/32". These make life very easy in that the bolt length is predictable, and it ALWAYS screws into the wanted hole easily. Just screw the thing into the plate, snip off with nips, and slap it against the linisher. The 2mm A/F driver is in the picture, made from a cap head screw.  Each to his own, but I think that this is an improvement on a long plank fixed at each end with a large rivet! JB  The bolt holes are in the right place, it's the shadows! |
|
terryhowlett
Active Member
Actually retired (almost as planned) in late 2019.
Posts: 47 
|
Post by terryhowlett on Jan 9, 2013 21:22:51 GMT
Looks good JB. Is that your Proxxon BFW 40 in the top picture?
T
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 21:39:34 GMT
Looks good JB. Is that your Proxxon BFW 40 in the top picture? T Hi Terry. Yes it is: a great piece of kit that I couldn't do without! JB |
|
terryhowlett
Active Member
Actually retired (almost as planned) in late 2019.
Posts: 47
|
Post by terryhowlett on Jan 9, 2013 22:03:15 GMT
Thought so. I reckon that is going to be one of my first acquisitions (at long last). I need to start playing!
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 22:30:43 GMT
Very nice John, adds a lot to the look of the valances.. Top stuff
Pete
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2013 18:02:23 GMT
Gosh, Chris Vine and his book have a lot to answer for! Will you just look at what that nasty man made me buy today! JB  |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2013 19:22:06 GMT
very handy piece of kit John... I keep asking my son to bring his home so I don't have to keep going to him to use it but them he reminds me that my compressor would never run it...  Pete |
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Jan 13, 2013 22:41:58 GMT
As Pete says, very nice John. But you really should be reported for displaying tempting bits of kit especially when they're in our local Auto Shop and I've been gazing and thinking should I? will I? Nice size too for the work bench, hmmmmm  Jim |
|
|
|
Post by greenbat on Jan 14, 2013 11:04:28 GMT
Handy bit of kit them. You need a decent size compressor, and the little filter inside where the hoover is plumbed in tends to clog. If you vacuum it on the wrong side occaisionally it'll be OK. Also, when in use put lots of things in then tape round the edges of the lid too keep the dust in. They do make a big mess, cover any machine tools or if possible take it outside. And get a dust mask.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 11:19:35 GMT
Handy bit of kit them. You need a decent size compressor, and the little filter inside where the hoover is plumbed in tends to clog. If you vacuum it on the wrong side occaisionally it'll be OK. Also, when in use put lots of things in then tape round the edges of the lid too keep the dust in. They do make a big mess, cover any machine tools or if possible take it outside. And get a dust mask. Good advice. I'll use it in our pottery: plenty of dust in there! Thanks JB |
|
|
|
Post by chris vine on Jan 14, 2013 11:30:27 GMT
Hi JB,
It will be interesting to see how long the nozzle in the gun lasts for.
I had a similar machine to yours and the nozzle wore out very quickly. You may find that your's, like mine, is designed for glass bead media. I used grit so this was probably the trouble.
Anglo Scot Abrasives do a gun with a tungsten carbide nozzle if you need it..........
(nasty!) Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 13:50:41 GMT
Thanks for that Chris, I'll keep an eye on it.
Just got a phone call from the marina in France to tell me that my boat now has a smashed door window, but nothing appears to have been taken - bike, Honda generator, tele etc. are still there. The doors are 30mm thick teak and deadlocked, so they couldn't get in and must have given up. It's 500 x 600 mm therefore big enough to let smaller sized thieves in, so I might just have to disappear for a week or so to sort it!
GRRRRR
JB
|
|
|
|
Post by ejparrott on Jan 14, 2013 17:11:54 GMT
At one point we were making shot blasting nozzles for a guy who rebuilds natural gas engines. we were using silver steel in its natural state - his specification. They seemed to last for quite a long time.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 17:23:59 GMT
At one point we were making shot blasting nozzles for a guy who rebuilds natural gas engines. we were using silver steel in its natural state - his specification. They seemed to last for quite a long time. Thanks for confirming my own thinking. I was contemplating 'glass hard' silver steel but I will try plain vanilla first as you suggest. Off to the South of France tomorrow for a week: I'm sorting out the damage so no Brit Progress or blasting tryouts. However, the booze is cheaper there..... JB |
|
|
|
Post by chris vine on Jan 14, 2013 19:31:11 GMT
Hi JB,
When I had a worn out nozzle, I tired silver steel, both soft and glass hard. It made hardly any difference at all!
One of the fastest things to be eroded by a grit blast is glass and one of the slowest is rubber (the gauntlets you protect your hands with). so hardness is almost the opposite of what you want.
however Tungsten Carbide is so hard that it must be harder than the grit and seems to last for ever.
Just trying to save you from repeating my mistakes!!!..... Arghhhh
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 20:10:18 GMT
Hi JB, Just trying to save you from repeating my mistakes!!!..... Arghhhh Chris. Thanks Chris. Wasn't this the basis for a rather good book I have on painting and finishing techniques....? BTW I put that coupling I made into a little bag for safe keeping and I haven't seen the little bugger since! GRRRRR! JB |
|
pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,502
|
Post by pault on Jan 14, 2013 21:03:46 GMT
Hi All
The nozzle on the blasting gun we have is ceramic and seems to last some considerable time. Maybe you could make some in your pottery JB.
Regards
Paul
|
|
