Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Nov 15, 2011 8:50:07 GMT
...and a Soothing Ale ?
:-)
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Nov 15, 2011 8:50:53 GMT
I'll look forward to seeing her at Sandown JB. I'll be there with the Reading Society along with my Royal Scot.
Smifffy
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Post by simon48 on Nov 20, 2011 22:55:07 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2011 18:02:18 GMT
I Found these picture along with quite a few others- Hope this makes it clearer. Simon Thanks Simon. The trouble is that as soon as I look at detailed pictures my completion time drifts outwards.... JB |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2011 17:14:46 GMT
Cab body with first coat of Awlgrip epoxy etching primer: the paint is not going to rub off this cab. The rivet count is close but won't please everybody. Who cares anyway! Two things: Guess who didn't remove his nice fluffy Norwegian jumper before spraying this item? The rivets look enormous, but they are the smallest I could get! BTW none of the rivets were glued in: there are a couple of holes where I couldn't get the drift into the space and they will be put in with glue. The two holes at the base sides of the cab will take machine screws to secure the body to the platform. I should be quite pleased with it, but I can't help feeling I've done something out of sequence! Now, where's the Milliput?    Here is the little hand shear I made to cut the rivets. Four holes, three of them counter bored at different depths to obtain the right size rivet for the job in hand. Worth the effort!  |
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Post by alanstepney on Nov 23, 2011 19:27:39 GMT
"The rivets look enormous, but they are the smallest I could get"
What size are the rivets?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2011 19:39:36 GMT
Alan
3/64" shank steel. They are same as in the smoke box, and they look quite OK there! I think it's something to do with the close-up setting on the camera, so I won't worry about it.
JB
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Post by Jim on Nov 23, 2011 20:06:00 GMT
I'd agree. Once the paint goes on things fall into perspective and the rivets will look just right as they do on the smoke box.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2011 16:08:11 GMT
I now have no excuse not to finish the back head and connect up a few pipes! First job was to complete the composite hand wheels started some time ago. Comprising bronze rims and brass spokes, they needed an extension handle to make them look something like the original. Here are the tapered handles ready to be silver soldered to the rims, together with a finished one in the foreground.  Given the recent discussion machining small diameters I thought a few sequence pics wouldn't go amiss. I mentioned using a collet chuck to hold small diameters more securely. Here I've put a one mm spigot on the bronze bar, and I'm just starting to turn the 7mm long 2 degree taper. I've pulled the bar out of the collet after turning the first 3mm or so.  Measuring taper starting diameters can be a bit tricky. This one starts at two mm, the thickness of the rims, , but if having just finished turning the spigot and you are up against the next face , you wind the cross slide back to a previous mark to cut the right diameter initially. The taper will always start at the right diameter.  Half the taper length was cut, and the bar moved out to the right length for finishing and parting. It is quite straighforward to pick up the taper surface again: I'm not making Morse tapers!  Using a tiny parting tool cut with the Dremel saves a lot of expensive bronze swarf! The handles were put in the next size down collet and the heads rounded off with a file and emery.  The 1mm hole was drilled in the rim using an ancient short cut to position it! I could have set up a stop but what the heck!  It is starting to look the part. However, that commercially bought clack is an abortion, so I'll have to make a prettier one, and the regulator bracket hasn't been tightened up so it looks out of square! Now which pipes go where.....?   N |
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greensands
Part of the e-furniture
Building a Don Young 5" Black Five
Posts: 409
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Post by greensands on Nov 25, 2011 17:57:30 GMT
Hi - I do like the look of your backhead and the neat attachments you have begun to assemble. Could you explain the method by which the backhead plate is attached to the boiler. For example, have you provided fixing lugs as part of the general boiler assembly or are you making use of existing fittings for the attachment of the plate? The whole ensemble is looking looking very nice indeed.
Regards
Reg
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Post by ianholder on Nov 25, 2011 18:19:49 GMT
Get rid of the red paint and you will feel a lot better about the check valve, you may even decide to keep it. I can never understand why they paint these fittings bright red, alright for toys I suppose but not for real engines, regards Ian
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2011 19:21:23 GMT
Ian.
I take your point as I could disguise it, but having put all that effort into the C.R. Amsbury valves it would seem to be spoiling the ship for a haiporth etc.....
Thanks for describing it as a real engine.
JB
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2011 19:28:14 GMT
Hi Could you explain the method by which the backhead plate is attached to the boiler. Regards Reg Reg. The backhead plate floats on the back of the firebox, and it is attached with nut inserts to the firebox cladding which is also of a substantial thickness. The fittings are, of course, screwed into bosses on the boiler backhead. The doors and the regulator bracket rely on the backplate for their security. The manifold boss is a good fit in the cladding aperture, so it looks and feels quite secure in practice. I hope! JB |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Nov 26, 2011 7:06:56 GMT
She looks very pretty , I am sure she will perform as well . ;D ;D
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peteh
Statesman
Still making mistakes!
Posts: 760
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Post by peteh on Nov 26, 2011 13:20:38 GMT
Beutiful job sir! I think I need more patience!
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greensands
Part of the e-furniture
Building a Don Young 5" Black Five
Posts: 409
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Post by greensands on Nov 26, 2011 13:56:45 GMT
Hi John
Have you got a pic of the firebox cladding before attachment of the backplate?
Reg
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2011 14:07:53 GMT
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Post by arch1947 on Nov 26, 2011 22:07:34 GMT
Hi JB, The Brit looks fabulous. It is obvious that your eyesight is better than mine and your fingers are closer to scale than mine. I am interested in the collet chuck system you used to make the valve handles, did you make it or purchase it? Either way is it possible to get details.
Cheers,
Arch
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2011 22:32:33 GMT
Hi JB, I am interested in the collet chuck system you used to make the valve handles, did you make it or purchase it? Either way is it possible to get details. Cheers, Arch Hi Arch. The collet chuck is based on an idea that Tel gave me. It is a piece of 3/4" steel hex machined to take the miniature collets that came with my Proxxon BFW40/E. They may well be available separately, but are likely to be expensive! My EMCO three jaw chuck runs to within 0.0005", so I just bored the hex bar to take the collets, and and screw cut it for a closing nut. Pretty straightforward really. There are two collets in the picture: the one on the right is a home made one, of which I have now made three or four to suit. I wouldn't put them in a grinding spindle, but I'm not working to serious limits these days! Hope this helps. JB |
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Post by arch1947 on Nov 26, 2011 23:55:02 GMT
Thanks JB, Looks like another project to put on the list.
Cheers,
Arch
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