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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2012 9:37:24 GMT
Andrew OMG indeed: fabulous. I thought it was a real one! How much did it sell for? £30K? £50K? At least my cab floor looks slightly similar! BTW, if anyone wants a piece of this teak ply I can spare a few pieces. JB
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2012 17:29:42 GMT
Well, I tried cannibalising the OEM knobs, but to no avail, so had a go at making some. I only need four, but I made double, knowing the attrition rate for small brass components in my workshop! Forming the4mm dia. shape. The tool was made with a Dremel diamond burr, and was accurate enough for my purposes. It was very important to keep both diameters at 4mm to ensure they could be held in a collet later. They were parted off at 5mm long. Held reversed in a 4mm collet and drilled and tapped 2.5mm deep. Note the sophisticated DRO unit..... A jig was made out of 5/8" square bar, there is a 2mm clearance hole through it. There is a thread in the end for a 2BA securing screw. The ejector bar - there's a posh name for it! - is screwed in 2 threads only, and ensures easy insertion and ejection because the piece is a good fit in the jig and rocking would jam it. Piece secured and ready for drilling 2.4mm. Perfect! Well, nearly..... JB
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brozier
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 335
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Post by brozier on Feb 11, 2012 18:55:27 GMT
Hi JB, Really like that jig. Thanks for sharing it - filed for future reference. Cheers Bryan
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2012 17:04:24 GMT
Right Hand side handrails fittedThis was trickier than I thought it would be, the difficulty being getting the sweep of the stainless steel rails and the bend at the bottom to be the same for each. I had to practice a lot with some MS bar. The sweep still isn't as I would like but I'm running out of bar!. If I tried to describe properly how I made these, I would have to spend a lot of time removing the expletives... The stainless rails fit into a socket at the top made of stainless tube, which was flattened at the rear and rivetted to the roof. They are threaded 2mm at the base and secured with brass nuts. The bend was achieved by drilling a 3/32" hole in my nut plate, putting a nut on, and bending the bar whilst pulling it against the nut plate. It's close enough! I then looked at a couple of other peoples' examples, and they've cheated, missing out the bottom bend completely as you can see in this photo. Funnily enough, it didn't even enter my head to do it that way! I'll replace the black button heads with countersinks when I take it all apart again. JB
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Post by Jim on Feb 18, 2012 20:57:34 GMT
Lovely paint job John.
Jim
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Feb 18, 2012 22:49:47 GMT
JB. I think your handrails are better. Who's Brit is that? And what gauge? 3 1/2 I am guessing.
Two minor points on the tender the filter boxes are missing and the tender drag beam has been painted red. It would not be as there is no need. But you knew that already. The rest of the paint job looks superb.
Andrew
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2012 22:57:17 GMT
JB. I think your handrails are better. Who's Brit is that? And what gauge? 3 1/2 I am guessing. Andrew Hi Andrew The Brit is a LBSC from Station Road Steam no. 3464. and I quote: An excellent "Britannia" Pacific to LBSC's design, from the workshop of the same gentleman responsible for the Class 37 diesel and GWR Hall I have sold recently.I agree, the paint job is fantastic: I hope I achieve something near it! BTW how much did the 7 1/4" Brit go for? JB
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Andrew C
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Post by Andrew C on Feb 19, 2012 8:55:39 GMT
Hi john
I think it was around £35k but can't be sure. Absolutely stunning! One of a pair built and only steamed two of three times.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 19:27:55 GMT
The gentle sweeps were an easy option, copying another nice model I'd seen. Trouble is, I looked at a photo of a real one! These are a little more prototypical in that they follow the lines of the cab sides. They will be painted as per prototype. JB
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Andrew C
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Post by Andrew C on Feb 23, 2012 23:24:55 GMT
No JB. Yours ARE correct. Andrew
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2012 18:46:11 GMT
Family events are now behind me and it's time to really get this thing rolling: literally! Today's job was the steam pipes to the cylinders, and a general assembly so that I could look at running boards and smoke deflectors. The cab is on hold while I wait for a new chequer plate to replace the one with rolling marks in it. However, the front face is a much better fit around the wrapper, achieved by the addition of a small brass angle holding the front down. I'm getting near the point where I'll run out of excuses not to put coal in it...... JB
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2012 20:17:49 GMT
Looking great JB.. Pete
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2012 11:02:56 GMT
A Major Disaster!Here's me cheerfully piling on the cladding to make it look pretty, not realising, in my ignorance, that although the cab dimensions are spot on to drawing, it is sitting much too high on the loco. The reasons being that the firebox is also a little oversize, and the cladding has jacked up the cab as well, so now to fit to the flange on the cab sides, the running boards will be at least 1/4"" too high and the the reverser will be exposed. Here is a pic where someone else appears to have fallen into the same trap as I did. According to the drawing, the bottom of the running board should just touch the top of the steam entry flange on the cylinder, and this one is too high, just like mine would be! As Spike Milligan used to say "What we gonna do now?!" The perfect answer, I suppose, would be to remake the cab sides and fronts slightly oversize so that it sits further down. Oh well, it'll give me something to do this winter.... Suggestions on a postcard please..... JB
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Post by Jim on Mar 14, 2012 13:03:52 GMT
I'm not sure I've understood you properly John but a quick check of the photos of the real thing on JJ's site shows the footplate at the same relative height as yours and not in contact with the steam entry flange on the top of the cyclinder. It looks right to me.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2012 13:45:49 GMT
Jim. Here's the problem in more detail. The LBSC drawing specifies the 3/8" running board height at 2.25" above the front beam. This pic shows the required position, and proves that the cylinders are in exactly the right place : as I would hope them to be! This pic shows the cab/running board joining flange out of position. By some oversight I've made the flange 1/8" too high as it is, but it is still 1/4" too high. I'll probably cut off the flange and position a dummy a bit lower: nobody will notice........! JB
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Post by chris vine on Mar 14, 2012 14:12:35 GMT
HI John,
I see your problem, but I am not sure it is serious. The steam pipe is not the most obvious point to act as a reference point for the running board. the position of the lifting arms is probably more important relative to the height of the running board. How does it look from that point of view.
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2012 14:44:22 GMT
Hi Chris. This is to drawing with a 3/8" strip held in place: This is how it is if I connect to the cab flange as it is! I have to do something about it. JB
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Post by Jim on Mar 14, 2012 21:35:49 GMT
Now I see what your problem is John. Jim
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
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Post by Andrew C on Mar 14, 2012 22:09:50 GMT
Hi JB I'm sorry to say your right that bracket on the cab is too high If you are like me you will only see the fault every time you steam it if you leave it. No one else will but you'll know. But as I have said to you before the only critic you have to please is you Andrew
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2012 22:18:04 GMT
Hi JB I'm sorry to say your right that bracket on the cab is too high Andrew And that's why I'll cut it off and fit a dummy bracket lower down. As you say, it's my loco.... but I would like it to look something like the real thing! Happy days.. JB
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