Northumbrian Build Thread

[peteh]

Mystery object number 1. Made this today for the Northumbrian. Works to spec

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[Shawki Shlemon]

What is it ?

[baggo]

Riveting dolly?

[peteh]

Well done Baggo ;D

Home made rivet snap - and the results are -

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[peteh]

Very hot today in Perth so had a short early session this morning and hopefully a bit longer tonight.

Finished riveting in the horn plates and filed the countersunk rivets flush on the outside faces. The rivets are 3/32 steel and I reckon one is wasted for every three i'm putting in - is this usual?

[Shawki Shlemon]

NO , you will get better as time passes . ;D ;D

[peteh]

Dec 4, 2011 8:23:30 GMT Shawki Shlemon said:

NO , you will get better as time passes . ;D ;D

Well that's reassuring

Managed to get back to the shed and tapped the horn stay holes, breaking a 6BA tap in the process Luckily easy to recover by drilling out the rivets from the offending horn plate (the tapped holes are in the centre of the frame and horn plate), prying open and extracting the broken end of the tap, Rivet back up and proceed slower

Also drilled and tapped the front stretcher, held in place with 1" 6BA bolts. I will order some countersunk head bolts in the New Year

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[peteh]

Well grabbed a couple of hours in the shed tonight and managed to drill and tap the remaining stretchers. The frame is now self supporting (unlike my kids )

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[brozier]

Hi Pete,

I struggled with Riveting and tapping at first.

With rivets getting them cut to the right length is half the battle - ideally use shears which give a nice cut at a right angle to the shaft. Side cutters tend to leave a point which oftens causes problems.

When making a semicircle rivet head you are supposed to used three rivet snaps :-

1) Set which is a parallel side hole to push the plates together.
2) A short bell mouthed hole which compresses the rivet enough to hold the two plates together.
3) the hemi-spherical set to get the nice shape.

I found using 1) and 2) useful when doing countersunk rivets too.

Smaller countersunk rivets can be done in a drill press by holding the hemi-spherical set vertically in the drill press vice and have a piece of bar in the drill chuck to act as a hammer.

This allows you to always strike vertically and you only need two hands!

With tapping use a slightly bigger drill so you reduce the amount of thread enagement. It greatly reduces the stress on the tap.

A simple tapping stand made from an old hand drill stand will also pay dividends.

Cheers
Bryan

[peteh]

Thanks for those tips Brian,

These were all countersink rivets, so I was just supporting the round head. The tapping problem was definitely me rushing to finish the tap before rushing inside to the loo !

[peteh]

After another couple of hours I have progressed some more. Drag beam has been drilled and tapped for coupling (M5 - Aussie Standard) and the front beam drilled and tapped for the buffer beam. The buffer beam has also had the holes enlarged from the laser cutting to suit clearances required.

Note - I would probably not get the small holes cut if I was doing this again, it hardens the insides and makes subsequent drilling out quite hard.

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[peteh]

Just a verbal update tonight. Footplate support is now added and the buffer beam has been drilled and tapped for a coupling.

Next job(s) are firebox supports, footplate and couplings then parts 1 and 2 will be completed

[peteh]

Busy afternoon/evening in my shed today, got more done than expected. Firebox supports and footplate are done, as well as the horn stays which I forgot about on my last post. Hoping to find enough time tomorrow to make the four couplings and then I can cross parts 1 and 2 off

[peteh]

Looking better all the time

Currently working on the couplings - stopped due to heat/lunch

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[peteh]

Well another 4 hour stint got 5 couplings made (one a spare for when I stuff up somewhere along the line!) This completes ME parts one and two. Hoping my order from GLR arrives before Christmas so I can continue

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[peteh]

It's been a good few days - both parcels I have been waiting on from the UK have arrived (GLR and RDG) so I'm all set for a busy Christmas break.

Was at work late today - usual clients wanting plans in before Christmas, as though Council's will do anything to them over the break - but managed to get the axle pump body finished and attached to the frames. I decided to also add a lock nut to be on the safe side, and it also makes it easier to set the pump up vertical.

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[peteh]

Only an short time tonight but got the pump ram finished. Just found out that I am out of 7/16 hex brass for the inlet and outlet fittings. Too late to get some before Christmas now so I have three choices - oversize, undersize or make my own - none of which appeals

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[peteh]

Decided on undersize, and I think it works, using 3/8 rather than 7/16 hex. Made both inlet and outlet fittings tonight other than the silver soldering so basically another full item crossed off of the list

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[Smifffy]

Great progress pictures Pete, keep them coming.

Smifffy

[peteh]

Glad you are liking them - I have been a bit worried that I have been over doing the photos.