|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 20, 2012 21:45:51 GMT
And another Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by RGR 60130 on Aug 21, 2012 19:06:13 GMT
Hi Geoff,
I'm pleased it all worked out OK. There's nothing worse than having a job you don't want to face hanging over your head when the cost of failure is starting again. I'm sure you'll feel a great sense of relief now it's done and look forward to the next bit. Enjoy that drink and the satisfaction of having got it sorted.
Reg
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Aug 21, 2012 22:39:26 GMT
I'm pleased it all worked out OK. There's nothing worse than having a job you don't want to face hanging over your head when the cost of failure is starting again. I'm sure you'll feel a great sense of relief now it's done and look forward to the next bit. Enjoy that drink and the satisfaction of having got it sorted. Reg Couldn't agree more. Well done Geoff. Jim.
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 22, 2012 17:52:05 GMT
Hi all ,no sooner that i had finished the bending of the tender side sheets, i then marked out the inside of the sheet. That is so you don't have scribed lines on the outside. I then went on to drill all the holes 3/64" for rivets. Now you will notice that the centre portion has'nt been marked out or drilled as i don't know the size of the post 1958 B.R. totem and you don't want to try and put transfers over rivet heads so i'll just hang on for a while. Once again thank you for kind comments. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2012 15:41:51 GMT
Now you will notice that the centre portion has'nt been marked out or drilled as i don't know the size of the post 1958 B.R. totem and you don't want to try and put transfers over rivet heads so i'll just hang on for a while. You should be OK with the horizontal row as the totem sits just above, however the vertical row goes right through the middle of the transfer. In full size, I believe they cut a small hole in the transfer for each rivet, then touched in the rivet heads with paint. Can be done on a model, but a lot of hassle!
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 24, 2012 20:35:13 GMT
hi Superseven It was just this after-noon that i sent for the totems from Blackgates . As it will be a long time before these will be put on, they were to be laid on and weigh up the rivet spacing, many thanks.
Geoff (Carlisle).
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 29, 2012 17:53:29 GMT
Hi all, this picture shows the jig i made to hold the tender backplate in place as it is awkward trying to fit brass angles to it. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 29, 2012 17:56:37 GMT
And another view. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Sept 5, 2012 20:59:23 GMT
Hi all, does anyone know about a liquid by the name of Slosh or similar that is used in the motor industry to seal petrol tanks. I have heard that you pour it in then shake it all about then pour the remainder out, as this would seal the water tanks on our tenders ~do your best.
Geoff (Carlisle).
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Sept 5, 2012 21:27:33 GMT
It's probably no help to you Geoff but I sealed the steel tank on my Burrell with a standard silastic sealant and have had no problems at all. I'll be using the same product for Boadicea's tender. Just for the record McGuigan's Black Label has a wonderfuly calming influence on nerves tattered by a day carefully boring out tender axle boxes. Jim
|
|
jackrae
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,333
|
Post by jackrae on Sept 5, 2012 21:45:59 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Sept 12, 2012 21:03:13 GMT
Hi all, here is the latest photo's of the tender . The backplate is fitted, although the brass angles are riveted to the back, i took the easy way out and inserted 6 ~10 BA X 1/4" brass csk screws in the side, with the side sheets being 1/16" thick it enables you to make deep countersinks in the plate and still keep the No. 50 drill hole. These will be filled in later with auto -filler, then flushed off. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Sept 12, 2012 21:26:40 GMT
The front photo shows the shovelling plate, the three pieces that make it up was tack brazed in situ, then withdrawn and laid on the firebrick and then fully brazed with silver solder. It's rather like starting at both ends and meeting in the middle, well something like that. Iv'e built two loco's, one a 5"G Springbok and a 5" G .Enterprise and this is by far the most difficult loco to build. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Sept 12, 2012 21:33:48 GMT
And finally . Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by RGR 60130 on Sept 12, 2012 23:29:11 GMT
Looking good Geoff.
Reg
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Sept 13, 2012 0:12:45 GMT
As Reg says "lovely work Geoff" to which I'll add you must be feeling well pleased with the progress you're making and well deserved too. I wouldn't feel too worried about 'taking the easy way out' in using csk screws where appropriate. It makes sense to me and in my case I've started to realise that there is such a thing as mortality You're certainly inspiring me to try harder even if it means forsaking soothing ales for a bottle of red. ;D ;D Jim
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2012 8:26:58 GMT
Hi Geoff
It's looking very nice.
My Modelworks Britannia also had countersunk screws securing the thick brass tender sides, and I used car body filler to fill the screw heads. However, I found that despite careful rubbing down, and being completely invisible under the primer, the screw positions are faintly visible in the finished gloss paintwork. Possibly shrinkage over time, or differential expansion and contraction?
On the cab sides which I did later, I filled the countersunk screws with soft solder, and the results are much better.
Kind regards
John
|
|
|
Post by alanstepney on Sept 13, 2012 15:18:54 GMT
Look carefully at many / most 12" scale BR loco's and you can find countersunk slotted head screws.
I've never been able to understand why so many people decry them on models when it may well be prototypical.
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Sept 19, 2012 20:49:55 GMT
Hi all, what i have done here is to cut out the shape of the wet bulkhead in cardboard and i'm pleased i did, because if i had'nt i may have made a mistake in cutting out the brass. As you will see two peices of cardboard are stuck on at the coal door, well it's easy when its just cardboard.But the next problem is that i can't make my mind up regarding the coal floor and the rear bulkhead, do i take the rear bulkhead down to the coal floor, or bend the rear end of the floor up to form the bulkhead, andif i do the later there will be a lot of unsupported floor. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Sept 19, 2012 20:56:33 GMT
And another. Attachments:
|
|