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Post by Roger on Dec 17, 2018 21:53:56 GMT
These are the clearance pockets required in the back of the blowdown valve. The one where the steam comes in just makes sure there's plenty of room for the steam as the valve begins to open and the arm moves out of the way. The two smaller pockets are for the nut on the end of the shaft. I've added both on the backs to they're not handed.  20181217_121742 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The front half need a reamed 3mm hole and an 'O' ring pocket around that to take a 1mm section 'O' ring. The two halves are sealed with a 1mm section 'O' ring . The groove was machined with a 1mm 2-flute carbide cutter intended for metal so this didn't take long. A short 1mm cutter isn't expensive. The groove was roughed on the centre line of the groove which is 1.1mm wide. Then it was finished with a cut either side to bring it to size. The groove is 0.75mm deep to compress the 1mm 'O' ring.  20181217_172048 by Roger Froud, on Flickr So far, so good. I've made the valve piece from Fluorosint since I've got some. You can see the Lead Free Solder on the face of the boss which had to be adjusted so it tightened in the right place.  20181217_214416 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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Post by Roger on Dec 18, 2018 22:43:45 GMT
This is the boss being created on the first of the two arms using a 16mm cutter to clear it with a single pass...  20181217_195201 by Roger Froud, on Flickr ... a 5.5mm 3-flute was used to machine the profile and the pocket for the valve. A 1mm cutter was used to machine the hex pocket in the boss.  20181218_094438 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The actuator shaft is 3mm Stainless Steel rod which has an M2.5 thread on the end and...  20181218_104817 by Roger Froud, on Flickr ... a 2.6AF hex for the location. Clocking it up carefully with the quill locked is essential if the hex is to be concentric to the shaft diameter  20181218_212433 by Roger Froud, on Flickr This doubly split collet arrangement has a flat on one side and a hex pocket in the bottom so I can hold it and get the same orientation for the hex on each end. That's so the arm will come out at the right angle.  20181218_213346 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The valve face is probably going to need polishing to ensure a reliable seal.  20181218_223230 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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Post by Roger on Dec 19, 2018 16:08:40 GMT
Today I've finally sorted out something in the workshop that's been niggling me for ages. The grey cabinet with drawers gets used all the time, but has to tendency for the drawers to roll out. Gently holding them back usually makes them stay there, but it's just annoying I'm sure the rails are slightly sloping back anyway, but I've got so many heavy things in there they're dropping. All it needs is a piece of packing under the front to tip it back, but that's easier said than done without emptying it. It's got to weigh 150Kg! I managed to lift out the lighter drawers but could feel it doing my back in, and I couldn't see how I'd easily get them back in. So a bit of ingenuity was required to use the overhead crane and use the lifting tray with an extension to lift them.  20181219_143002 by Roger Froud, on Flickr So I've clamped a piece of what was an old door from a kitchen cupboard that was just the right size to the tray and moved the lifting point out as far as it would go with the tapped block I made for adjusting it. I really didn't want to have to take all of these out, it would have taken absolutely ages.  20181219_143103 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Some of the trays wanted to slide off, so I put a clamp on the back to keep them on. It worked like a charm, so I've saved the pictures of what I did in my Crane folder in case I need to do this again.  20181219_145311 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I see that Flickr appear to have changed or modified their policy. They now say that accounts with more than 1000 files are 'at risk' of being deleted, not that they 'will be deleted'. Either way, they can get lost, I'm not going to pay them anything when they've offered 1Tbyte of data storage for free of which I've only used less than 2%. That's not exactly greedy. Anyway, this is their latest threat... "Your uploads will be locked soon. Starting January 8th, free accounts on Flickr with 1000 or more will no longer be able to upload new photos. Learn more about these changes here. For unlimited uploads, upgrade to Pro at 15% off using code FLICKRPRO15. (Discount valid until January 8, 2019) " |
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Post by Roger on Dec 19, 2018 23:08:18 GMT
I've finally found a good use for the 'cut width' feature that Ed showed some time ago on one of his tool paths. In this case, I'm trying to clear around the boss on the blowdown valve arm. All I've done is to define a semi-circle around the top of the boss and then used a 16mm cutter with a 10mm cut width to clear the whole of the top face of the stock in one operation. There's a finishing pass just around the boss afterwards. This solves a problem I've had for some time.  20181219_143616 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The profile is a simple one that doesn't need extra clearance. That's done with a 5.5mm three flute.  20181219_150050 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The hex hole was machined with a 1mm 2-flute after first drilling with at 2.5mm Here they've been parted off. I've actually machined the correct depth for these, I usually go 0.5mm deeper so they break out of the stock completely.  20181219_213220 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Anyway, cleaning them up with a file results in this.  20181219_223144 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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rrmrd66
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 339 
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Post by rrmrd66 on Dec 20, 2018 21:40:27 GMT
Hi Roger
"Starting January 8th, free accounts on Flickr with 1000 or more will no longer be able to upload new photos. Learn more about these changes here. For unlimited uploads, upgrade to Pro at 15% off using code FLICKRPRO15. (Discount valid until January 8, 2019)"
Was unaware of this until your warning. Now I cannot log onto the Flickr site at all. Message reads "secure connection failed"
Superb work as usual BTW.
Regards
Malcolm
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Post by Roger on Dec 20, 2018 22:35:15 GMT
Hi Roger "Starting January 8th, free accounts on Flickr with 1000 or more will no longer be able to upload new photos. Learn more about these changes here. For unlimited uploads, upgrade to Pro at 15% off using code FLICKRPRO15. (Discount valid until January 8, 2019)" Was unaware of this until your warning. Now I cannot log onto the Flickr site at all. Message reads "secure connection failed" Superb work as usual BTW. Regards Malcolm Hi Malcolm, I don't think your problem is related to this issue though. Have you tried logging in using a different browser or via a mobile phone? One possible way to show pictures here is to link them directly from dropbox which is what I'm trying to do here in a test...  This worked by copying and pasting the link from the dropbox image and surrounding it with ![]() .... [/img] which also has the property of growing or shrinking the image when you make the page larger. Anyway, this is the photo I was trying to show. I've countersunk both frame plates to use countersunk screws for the pump stay. The idea is to fill over them and paint it so they aren't seen. This is what I'm doing with the buffers too. I've had to modify the arrangement from the original design to accommodate the corner gussets.  20181220_112550 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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rrmrd66
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 339
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Post by rrmrd66 on Dec 21, 2018 7:22:05 GMT
Hi Roger
Well done. I logged on via iPhone.
Apologies for "thread creep"
Best Wishes for Christmas and 2019.
Malcolm
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Post by Roger on Dec 21, 2018 9:18:28 GMT
Best Wishes to you too Malcolm, and to all here too! This is how the rear buffer steps look on 1501...
 DSCN5659 by Roger Froud, on Flickr ... and after much agonising, this is how they look on the 3D model.  Rear buffer steps by Roger Froud, on Flickr If you look at this side view of 1501, you can see that the steps on the cab and the steps on the buffer are pretty much at the same height as each other, which is sensible really. However, I've got the works drawing for the rear steps, and although it's not fully dimensioned, it's drawn to scale. I drew the back plate of the buffer steps to the drawing only to find that the bottom step was 9mm lower than the one on the side of the cab! I think the problem is that the LBSC frame heights are wrong, and this means the step on the cab is probably quite a bit higher than it should be. That's necessary to get the support from the brake rod at the bottom. Anyway, I've shortened it as much as I think I can without it looking very wrong, and it's only 3mm lower. I could possibly reduce the gap between the steps a little more, the top step can't end up level with the one on the cab, it's just not possible.  1501b by Roger Froud, on Flickr So this it a classic case of not wanting to start from dodgy fundamental dimensions, but what can you do. This is where I am and I'll massage the dimensions to make the best of a bad job. |
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Post by Rob on Dec 22, 2018 10:56:43 GMT
It's interesting that you needed to countersink the pump stay screws Roger - I had intended to do the same with mine but I seem to have enough clearance to use a full hex head instead, even with full end float. I know exactly what you mean about making the best of a bad job. If I started again I think I'd redesign the frames too. The lack of inclined cylinders also frustrates me every time I think about them.  |
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Post by Roger on Dec 22, 2018 11:29:13 GMT
It's interesting that you needed to countersink the pump stay screws Roger - I had intended to do the same with mine but I seem to have enough clearance to use a full hex head instead, even with full end float. I know exactly what you mean about making the best of a bad job. If I started again I think I'd redesign the frames too. The lack of inclined cylinders also frustrates me every time I think about them. Hi Rob, Actually, I moved the pump stay right at the start so that they wouldn't clash with the wheel rims, but they're big and unsightly. I've changed the ones on the buffer beams to countersunk types because the corner gussets won't fit otherwise. Since those are going to have to be filled and fitted permanently, I thought I might as well do the same for these. There's a lot wrong with it, but with enough fussy detail to draw the eye, nobody is going to notice most of the errors. Knowing what I know now, I would bin the LBSC plans since they are a work of fiction. Still, it will end up as a good looking locomotive, fit for the purpose I started making it for. |
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Dec 22, 2018 13:36:47 GMT
I can't wait for when Roger starts on the working scale padlock on the box behind the buffer beam. 😉
Mike
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Post by Roger on Dec 22, 2018 13:49:33 GMT
I can't wait for when Roger starts on the working scale padlock on the box behind the buffer beam. 😉 Mike Good idea Mike, but I need drawings of the box first, I can't find them anywhere. |
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Post by andyhigham on Dec 22, 2018 15:00:51 GMT
I think LBSC designed his locos not to be a fine scale but something recognisable to a chap on a galloping horse
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,790
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Post by mbrown on Dec 22, 2018 18:03:47 GMT
My loco has a working padlock on the tender toolbox - admittedly it springs open and shut rather than needing a key. It's about 1/4" square and 2.5mm thick. It uses a bent domestic pin as the hasp with the tiny spring from a small-type Schraeder tyre valve inside. Simple but fiddly. I will try to take some pictures if anyone is interested.
Malcolm
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Post by Roger on Dec 22, 2018 18:08:40 GMT
My loco has a working padlock on the tender toolbox - admittedly it springs open and shut rather than needing a key. It's about 1/4" square and 2.5mm thick. It uses a bent domestic pin as the hasp with the tiny spring from a small-type Schraeder tyre valve inside. Simple but fiddly. I will try to take some pictures if anyone is interested. Malcolm Hi Malcolm, Yes, pictures please, and dimensions including the box if you've got them! |
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,790
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Post by mbrown on Dec 22, 2018 19:30:04 GMT
Here we go Roger! The photos aren't brilliant but you get the idea. The brass body of the padlock is 7/32" x 1/4" x 3/32" thick and the hasp is a domestic pin.  IMG_20181222_1857039 by malcolm brown, on Flickr  IMG_20181222_1857138 by malcolm brown, on Flickr I started with a length of 1/4" x 3/32" brass and by measuring the diameter of the shank and the head of the pin. I think the shank was a nice running fit in a No.60 hole and the head was about 1/16" diameter (sorry, Roger, my head is geared to work in Imperial units!). I drilled through the brass at No.60 and opened the hole up for most of its length to No.51 to clear the head and the spring from the Schraeder valve (as below). I put a couple of turns of 8BA thread into the base of the No.51 hole. I also drilled in about 3/64" deep at about 5/32" from the main hole to give a socket for the hasp to spring into. With a short piece of spring threaded onto the pin, it was fed into the hole which was closed off with a short 8BA screw, leaving enough length of hole for the pin to move up and down against the spring by about 3/64"-1/16". This was sealed with a touch of soft solder after the length of the pin outside the body of the padlock had been bent over and trimmed to length so that it sprang nicely into the socket.  IMG_20181222_1823061 by malcolm brown, on Flickr In use, you just pull down on the body of the lock until the hasp is free, and then twist it and lift it out of the cupboard latch. To put it back, pull the hasp out of the body and then spring it back into place. I did wonder about ways of making it operate with a key, but they defeated me. As you can tell, I make things like this "by eye" and there is no telling what could be done with more modern methods. But at least I can boast that no computers were exploited in the building of this loco! Malcolm |
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Post by Roger on Dec 22, 2018 19:57:26 GMT
Thanks for that Malcolm, that's a cracking job and food for thought.
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Post by Roger on Dec 22, 2018 21:26:39 GMT
These are the front and rear steps for the buffer beams, 0.6mm thick, machined with a 2-flute carbide cutter.  20181222_155244 by Roger Froud, on Flickr Cleaned up ready for forming. I've made the little formers, but they need location holes to pick up on the 1.4mm holes in the plates before I can fold them up.  20181222_212147 by Roger Froud, on Flickr |
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Post by 92220 on Dec 23, 2018 11:14:03 GMT
If you are limited to 1000 photos on Flickr, can't you just open another account in a different name, to get another 1000 stored, or does Flickr read your IP address?
Bob.
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Post by Roger on Dec 23, 2018 13:45:58 GMT
If you are limited to 1000 photos on Flickr, can't you just open another account in a different name, to get another 1000 stored, or does Flickr read your IP address? Bob. Hi Bob, I think you would have to create different email addresses for other accounts. I've already got a Photobucket account, but the free allowance is tiny. The way I use photos, I'd use up 1000 photos in less than a year, so it's not a long term solution. I think I'll just link them to my Dropbox account since I've got lots of spare space on that. It does mean they'll vanish if I depart this Earth, but that's how things are even if you have your own web site. It's such a shame that Flickr's business model was hopeless, it was working out nicely as it was. |
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