uuu
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Post by uuu on Jun 16, 2020 14:20:36 GMT
Have it on a large foot and, once you shovel the display coal in, the method of support won't show.
Wilf
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Post by Cro on Jun 16, 2020 14:25:30 GMT
Have it on a large foot and, once you shovel the display coal in, the method of support won't show. Wilf Or have a removable bit with coal glued on with the lamp iron on that..... Adam
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Jun 16, 2020 14:48:03 GMT
Magnetic coal!
Wilf
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Post by Roger on Jun 16, 2020 15:21:25 GMT
Great imaginative answers, I love it!
Although I could make a pocket or some sort of attachment point, it's not done like that on 1501. Since this is really only a cosmetic feature, you can make the argument that anything like that is going to look wrong when it's fitted and when it isn't. I like the idea of 'display coal' as an insert where this can be attached. That way it looks right when it's fitted.
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Jun 16, 2020 15:23:56 GMT
I feel a 3D print coming on.
Wilf
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Post by Roger on Jun 16, 2020 17:49:36 GMT
I feel a 3D print coming on. Wilf Possibly, just as a support for the coal and the Steel Lamp bracket though.
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 16, 2020 22:37:10 GMT
Obviously, the offending lamp iron is completely impracticable on the top of the rear bunker. There are enough 'goodies' on Roger's loco to attract the eye and drool over, and I certainly wouldn't notice that one lamp bracket if it wasn't there, and if Roger was kind enough to let me drive it I might cut my wrist on it and sue him!
Especially if an artery was cut on my wrist and I was bleeding to death and survived... if I didn't survive... !
Even if I didn't cut my wrist and bleed to death and squirt blood all over the rear bunker, I would no doubt bend it beyond recognition and spoil Roger's paintwork.
Bit of common sense, please folks. 'Risk assessment' anyone?
Cheers,
Julian
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dscott
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Post by dscott on Jun 17, 2020 0:42:40 GMT
Yes this goes for any model that you invite a third party to say Help Pick UP! Even with gloves!! Every edge on Part Built Jessie was almost sharp enough to Shave with! Now that would have upset Lily. Also paint hates sharp edges. You only have to look behind some white Kitchen appliances to see the paint peeling away from these edges. I could possibly add up 3 days of edge filing to sort out why I kept getting CUT!!!
Removable roof sections are another cause for getting damaged when driving.
David and Lily.
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Post by keith1500 on Jun 17, 2020 5:03:29 GMT
On my Speedy that top lamp iron is held in place by one “loose” rivet. When running I just pivot it out of the way.
I don’t know if that helps?
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Post by Roger on Jun 17, 2020 7:34:59 GMT
Obviously, the offending lamp iron is completely impracticable on the top of the rear bunker. There are enough 'goodies' on Roger's loco to attract the eye and drool over, and I certainly wouldn't notice that one lamp bracket if it wasn't there, and if Roger was kind enough to let me drive it I might cut my wrist on it and sue him! Especially if an artery was cut on my wrist and I was bleeding to death and survived... if I didn't survive... ! Even if I didn't cut my wrist and bleed to death and squirt blood all over the rear bunker, I would no doubt bend it beyond recognition and spoil Roger's paintwork. Bit of common sense, please folks. 'Risk assessment' anyone? Cheers, Julian Hi Julian, Of course you'll have a drive, and we certainly don't want you leaking the vital red stuff which is much more useful inside than out.
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Post by Roger on Jun 17, 2020 7:37:31 GMT
On my Speedy that top lamp iron is held in place by one “loose” rivet. When running I just pivot it out of the way. I don’t know if that helps? Hi Keith, I think this is the best solution if you're going to fit one at all. That does mean it doesn't look right for most of the time when it's being run, but then again, great chunks of the roof missing doesn't look right either. I think I'll just made one that fits for display purposes and leave the bunker lines clean at that point.
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Post by delaplume on Jun 17, 2020 11:40:01 GMT
Hi Roger, I recently encountered some fiscal serendipity ( oops, dictionary and cornflakes for breakfast !! ) so treated myself to a Silvercrest 5" gauge GWR 1366 class pannier tank......As you can see from the attached photo the cab rear, bunker etc. is virtually the same as the 15xx class... And, just like yourself I found that the upper bracket was a nuisance so, after a lot of "angst" I decided to remove it.... The idea was not to mention it to anyone and just see how long it would be before some "Eagle-eyed" person made some "Helpful" comment !! Alas this virus kicked-in so no chance for it to be seen yet....... ![](https://i.ibb.co/wch7DDn/BILD0010.jpg)
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jem
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Post by jem on Jun 17, 2020 16:25:45 GMT
It is sad that now a days, at the slightest excuse someone will sue, accedents do happen, and that just bad luck
Jem
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Post by Roger on Jun 17, 2020 21:06:26 GMT
You can see I've now added the dummy rivets on the corners of the bunker shelf and the door. These are 0.8mm rivets that I've cut off with 1mm of shank remaining, that being held in the hole with Loctite 601 High Strength Retainer. The door hinges on 1501 are bolted on, but that would require M0.8 bolts which are too small for my liking. Instead, I'm riveting the hinges on with 0.8mm Steel rivets. I'm doing this with the doors in place with rivets through the hinges on both parts to make sure it goes on with the hinges aligned. It's not easy to reach the back of the rivet, but it is possible with the rivet press and a flat anvil on the back. 20200616_220649 by The train Man, on Flickr 20200616_220846 by The train Man, on Flickr I've had to file the door edge back a little to make sure that I can withdraw and insert the hinge pin so that the door can be removed for painting and re-installed. The hinge goes flat against the bunker front plate when it's open, so the rivet is going to be flush on the back. 20200617_215027 by The train Man, on Flickr The is the top row of dummy rivets going in on the removable shelf. I've still got the ones on the front to do. 20200616_120900 by The train Man, on Flickr
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 17, 2020 21:56:27 GMT
Any news, Roger, on the cab 'Caution' plate inside the cab on the left hand side?
I fixed mine scraping the paint off and with superglue.
Also any further progress with the lamps?
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by Roger on Jun 18, 2020 7:32:36 GMT
Any news, Roger, on the cab 'Caution' plate inside the cab on the left hand side? I fixed mine scraping the paint off and with superglue. Also any further progress with the lamps? Cheers, Julian Hi Julian, The lettering on the Caution Plate is too fine to be able to directly create them by machining away the material around them. That leaves a couple of options. One is to engrave a negative to form a mould pattern, then cast a plate in something like a plaster mould. The other is to get them etched. Casting them would be my preferred method, but I think they would need to be cast in a vacuum else the detail would likely be lost to air bubbles. That's probably not feasible in metal with what I have at home, but I could cast one in Resin which would probably be good enough. Etching could be farmed out, or I could have a go myself, but that's not really the path I want to take. I've started a prototype top for the lamp, but I need to get back onto that to take it further. I'm not sure how I'm going to go about making and attaching the clip at the moment, and that needs a bit more thought before I can do that. That main reason for tackling the lamps was to make sure the brackets I'd made were going to be in the right place and that the tongue was the right size to fit them. I'll be picking both of these up again shortly.
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Post by 92220 on Jun 18, 2020 8:25:24 GMT
The bunker is looking good Roger. Where did you get your 0.8mm snap head steel rivets from? I can get snap head rivets, down to 0.3mm, in brass, from Knupfer, but I haven't been able to find the tiny sizes in steel, anywhere.
Bob.
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Post by Roger on Jun 18, 2020 8:31:22 GMT
The bunker is looking good Roger. Where did you get your 0.8mm snap head steel rivets from? I can get snap head rivets, down to 0.3mm, in brass, from Knupfer, but I haven't been able to find the tiny sizes in steel, anywhere. Bob. Hi Bob, I got them from Sapphire Products. They're expensive, but I couldn't find them anywhere else. They're so much stronger than Brass ones.
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Post by 92220 on Jun 18, 2020 18:43:09 GMT
Thanks Roger. I've just emailed them.
Bob. Edit: I won't need to bother about making a rivet snap for these. I have some of the tiny Knupfer brass rivets, and for those, I just used a lump of aluminium to support the head. When I set the rivet, it made it's own snap in the aluminium. Hopefully the steel snap heads will do the same.
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Post by Roger on Jun 18, 2020 19:36:31 GMT
Thanks Roger. I've just emailed them. Bob. Edit: I won't need to bother about making a rivet snap for these. I have some of the tiny Knupfer brass rivets, and for those, I just used a lump of aluminium to support the head. When I set the rivet, it made it's own snap in the aluminium. Hopefully the steel snap heads will do the same. Hi Bob, That may well work. I use a ball nose cutter in the geometric and a piece of 3mm silver steel in the chuck to make mine. It takes seconds. Some I harden, some I don't, it dependson what I use them for. The only concern is have about using a block is whether that will mark the back of the work. Personally, I'd support the rivet on its own.
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