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Post by Roger on Jun 18, 2020 20:30:03 GMT
The LED strip light arrived today, as did the double sided foam tape. 20200618_192810 by The train Man, on Flickr As it happens, the strip comes with a sticky back so I didn't need to buy the tape separately. However, it's pretty rigid in one direction, which means it's not going to go neatly round the 90 degree corners. Twisting like that, it's also going to gradually pull away from the surface it's stuck onto. 20200618_203719 by The train Man, on Flickr So I've designed this clip that will be held on by the bolts I'm using to secure the glass frame, and also the ones along the top edge of the cabinet. The idea is that this will do a complete loop of the viewing window, and then go higher up across the top. I'm just printing one of these out to see if I've got the dimensions right. If that looks promising, I'll print another 16 overnight so I fit the strip tomorrow. I noticed that there were quite a few clips for these on Thingiverse already, but none are quite like this which surround the LED strip clamp by The train Man, on Flickr Ok, that came out fine... but... I think it would be better if it was an open type clip and then the sticky surface wouldn't have to lift to go through the clip. So here's the new version multiplied up for printing since I know the inside profile is ok. I've made it a bit thicker too since there isn't as much support. It's now 1.6mm thick instead of 1mm This is the way it's presented in the Prusa Slicer. You export the model from the CAD package as a .stl file, and then just load it into this program. You can then decide which way up it should print and add as many as you want. There's a function that lays them out like this at the push of a button. You can see the total length of filament used, the time and cost on the lower RH corner. The type of filament, the quality (layer height) and the kind of printer being use is shown on the upper RH corner. All pretty simple if you use the default settings. So these should take just a couple of hours to print out. LED strip open clamp by The train Man, on Flickr
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Post by coniston on Jun 18, 2020 20:59:21 GMT
Hi Roger, if you want to you can cut those strips at the copper solder pads every three LED's and join them with some flexible cable. We use these type LED strips to illuminate our RC model aeroplanes etc. I have cut them into various lengths before and just used a piece of thin gauge cable to join them very successfully. That way you can keep them on the flat surfaces. Looks like these will greatly improve your lighting and visibility.
Chris D
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Post by Roger on Jun 18, 2020 22:14:41 GMT
Hi Roger, if you want to you can cut those strips at the copper solder pads every three LED's and join them with some flexible cable. We use these type LED strips to illuminate our RC model aeroplanes etc. I have cut them into various lengths before and just used a piece of thin gauge cable to join them very successfully. That way you can keep them on the flat surfaces. Looks like these will greatly improve your lighting and visibility. Chris D Thanks for that Chris, I'll have a look and see if that makes more sense. I bought the waterproof type though, so there's a continuous soft moulded clear piece that goes along the whole of the top surface, so the pads might not be readily accessible. It's not desperately important that the corners are neat, I just don't want it falling down in a heap which I think is what would happen if I didn't clip it more securely. I'm sure this will transform how easy it is to see what's going on. At the moment the light is at the back and there's too much glare off the outside to see clearly. We'll soon see if it makes a difference.
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Post by 92220 on Jun 18, 2020 22:26:36 GMT
Thanks Roger. I've just emailed them. Bob. Edit: I won't need to bother about making a rivet snap for these. I have some of the tiny Knupfer brass rivets, and for those, I just used a lump of aluminium to support the head. When I set the rivet, it made it's own snap in the aluminium. Hopefully the steel snap heads will do the same. Hi Bob, That may well work. I use a ball nose cutter in the geometric and a piece of 3mm silver steel in the chuck to make mine. It takes seconds. Some I harden, some I don't, it dependson what I use them for. The only concern is have about using a block is whether that will mark the back of the work. Personally, I'd support the rivet on its own. Hi Roger. Yes. Using the word 'block' was not really the right word to use. Because I found aluminium will work for tiny rivets, I would use an ally rod with the end machined smooth. The rod can also be tapered to present a very small area around the rivet head in the same way a normal snap would be made, but without the problem of making the tiny hemisphere for the snap head. When I found that ally worked, I did use a fairly large block of ally. That way there was no chance of marking the backhead sheet, which is nickel silver. The larger area reduced the hammering forces and spread it over a much larger area. As long as there are not too many rivets to support, one ally rod should do. One thing you can't do, though, is actually form a snap head on the other end from the manufactured head. To actually form a snap you would still need a steel snap, but I'm sure that would be obvious that you can't do the forming with an ally snap. Bob. Bob.
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Post by Roger on Jun 19, 2020 7:30:56 GMT
Hi Bob, That may well work. I use a ball nose cutter in the geometric and a piece of 3mm silver steel in the chuck to make mine. It takes seconds. Some I harden, some I don't, it dependson what I use them for. The only concern is have about using a block is whether that will mark the back of the work. Personally, I'd support the rivet on its own. Hi Roger. Yes. Using the word 'block' was not really the right word to use. Because I found aluminium will work for tiny rivets, I would use an ally rod with the end machined smooth. The rod can also be tapered to present a very small area around the rivet head in the same way a normal snap would be made, but without the problem of making the tiny hemisphere for the snap head. When I found that ally worked, I did use a fairly large block of ally. That way there was no chance of marking the backhead sheet, which is nickel silver. The larger area reduced the hammering forces and spread it over a much larger area. As long as there are not too many rivets to support, one ally rod should do. One thing you can't do, though, is actually form a snap head on the other end from the manufactured head. To actually form a snap you would still need a steel snap, but I'm sure that would be obvious that you can't do the forming with an ally snap. Bob. Bob. Hi Bob, Ok, I see what you mean now, that make sense.
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Post by Roger on Jun 19, 2020 14:18:57 GMT
I printed out some more clips, this time with 6.2mm holes for the M6 bolts along the top rear of the cabinet. I'm just going to live with the fact that the corners are a bit ugly. The main thing is that the glue isn't being relied upon to hold this in place. 20200619_150003 by The train Man, on Flickr This is going to make such a difference. It made no sense to have a light on the back wall when you're looking through the window. What you want illuminated is everything from the direction it's being viewed from. 20200619_150904 by The train Man, on Flickr
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Post by uuu on Jun 19, 2020 15:30:33 GMT
These are perhaps an alternative, if you had to do it again: 90 degree anglesThey come in different sizes (not sure what size yours is), and there are UK sellers Like here. Wilf
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Post by Roger on Jun 19, 2020 16:53:56 GMT
These are perhaps an alternative, if you had to do it again: 90 degree anglesThey come in different sizes (not sure what size yours is), and there are UK sellers Like here. Wilf Those look useful Wilf. I don't think you can use them if you buy the waterproof type of LED strip like mine though. The clear rubbery covering gets in the way. In reality, they didn't need to be waterproof, but I thought it would be easier to blow the dust off them. However, I'm not sure that's going to be the case because the clear covering is a bit sticky to touch. Anyway, there are enough of them to give plenty of light, even if they are rather dusty.
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Post by uuu on Jun 19, 2020 17:51:07 GMT
One of the adverts I read suggested you could peel back the waterproof layer but I suspect that it destroys the seal so rather removes the point.
I'm tempted to improve the lighting in my CNC enclosure (where waterproof would be sensible).
Wilf
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Post by Roger on Jun 19, 2020 19:42:58 GMT
One of the adverts I read suggested you could peel back the waterproof layer but I suspect that it destroys the seal so rather removes the point. I'm tempted to improve the lighting in my CNC enclosure (where waterproof would be sensible). Wilf That might work, it's a pretty flexible soft covering. I can see me using more of these. Actually, I've already got some for the 3D printer enclosure that's still an ongoing project.
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Post by coniston on Jun 19, 2020 19:47:31 GMT
One of the adverts I read suggested you could peel back the waterproof layer but I suspect that it destroys the seal so rather removes the point. I'm tempted to improve the lighting in my CNC enclosure (where waterproof would be sensible). Wilf That might work, it's a pretty flexible soft covering. I can see me using more of these. Actually, I've already got some for the 3D printer enclosure that's still an ongoing project. You can cut the clear moulded covering back, it is moulded on and not just glued on so if you're careful with a sharp modelling knife cut through to the printed strip then peel off what you need to remove. The strips are surprisingly strong but not unbreakable. Chris D
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Post by Roger on Jun 20, 2020 21:24:55 GMT
I've been hearing a few clattering noises recently when the compressor started up, and having run it for 40 minutes straight while shot blasting, it's started leaking somewhere when it's stopped. I can hear it blowing somewhere, but it seems like it's inside. Starting it today it seems to be vibrating more than I've noticed. So I'm not really sure what's wrong with it. 20200620_163857 by The train Man, on Flickr Since this hasn't had any attention since I brought it home from the factory, I thought I'd better have it apart and see what's going on. 20200620_170405 by The train Man, on Flickr The Allen bolts were rediculously tight. One rounded the hex off and bent the Allen key so I had to drill that one out. Fortunately the really long ones came out. Anyway, you can see that the oil has turned into an emulsion, which isn't good. Normally, I only turn it on for less than a minute at a time because it's being used on demand. I've finally located the manual in all my papers, and that informs me that you need to run it for an hour every week if you can't run it for 15 minutes each time you start it. So, it's hardly surprising that this has happened since I never do that. I guess I ought to get a reservoir for it to fill up so at least I won't have to start it so frequently when I do use it, and it will run longer. Lesson learned. 20200620_201451 by The train Man, on Flickr So quite where it was leaking isn't at all obvious. I'm inclined to just clean it all up and use a gasket sealant on the old gaskets and fill it with fresh oil to see if that's all it takes. The shaft runs in a plain bearing, so I suppose it's possible that this needs replacement. I'll measure it up and see what the clearance is. Unfortunately I don't have a workshop manual that tells me what this should be. I've emailed Hydrovane, but don't really expect much help.... we'll see. It all looks ok, the vanes move smoothly, so if the main bearings are ok then it's probably good to go. It's much more complicated inside than I imagined. The vane part is pretty small, with all of the rest being about the management of the oil getting in and out of the compressor and keeping it cool. 20200620_201459 by The train Man, on Flickr
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Post by 92220 on Jun 21, 2020 9:35:49 GMT
Hi Roger.
Mine started making a funny noise when it got up to around 80psi. I think I shall have to follow your lead and take it apart. I only use mine on demand. I had better go change the oil. I do have a reservoir on mine but I still use it for short bursts, as needed. I've also got a leak somewhere. I don't think it's the compressor though. I have so many connections around the place that I'm sure it must be one of those. The reinforced plastic hose tends to harden over time and leak at a joint.
Bob.
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Post by nonort on Jun 21, 2020 10:52:28 GMT
Anyway, you can see that the oil has turned into an emulsion, which isn't good. Normally, I only turn it on for less than a minute at a time because it's being used on demand. I've finally located the manual in all my papers, and that informs me that you need to run it for an hour every week if you can't run it for 15 minutes each time you start it. This will be because the atmosphere has certain amount of moisture in it. The oil is ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid which is hydroscopic. The act of running the compressor for longer periods boils off this moisture which is usually collected in the tank or water separator in the line. There must be modern lubricants which won't do this I suspect a silicone base. As an aside early Japanese motor cycles used this oil in the front forks as hydraulic fluid and if they were not used for extended periods the bottom of the fork leg rusted which in turn when used again mixed with the fluid and contaminated it to a point where it cut the oil seals which let in more water etc etc.
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Post by Roger on Jun 21, 2020 10:57:21 GMT
Hi Roger. Mine started making a funny noise when it got up to around 80psi. I think I shall have to follow your lead and take it apart. I only use mine on demand. I had better go change the oil. I do have a reservoir on mine but I still use it for short bursts, as needed. I've also got a leak somewhere. I don't think it's the compressor though. I have so many connections around the place that I'm sure it must be one of those. The reinforced plastic hose tends to harden over time and leak at a joint. Bob. Hi Bob, Just be aware that the bolts may be a real challenge to get out. I used a hex drive with my miniature socket set to undo mine. The bolts are deep below the surface so you have to use the long end of the Allen key to reach them. My Allen keys just twisted when faced with the load. I had to press them hard into the hex socket head to make sure it didn't come out and I had to put a tube over the handle to get enough leverage to undo them. The ones on the first part of the assembly are short M8 x 25, so you can replace those easily enough. The others are really long, M6 x 134mm. I've found M6 x 140 at Boltbase on eBay and the others in Stainless Steel, so I'll replace those while I'm at it. I'm wondering if the noises I've been hearing on startup are from too much oil getting into the vane section. That would be incompressible and account for the mechanical noise. The vibration may have been there all along, the vanes will make the rotating assembly out of balance so maybe there's nothing else wrong. There's a really thin plastic gasket on the inner vane section, and mine has a fold in it. It's hard to know whether that leaked or not though. The material is only 64microns thick as measured by micrometer, and I can't find gasket material that thin. I has to be like that else the leakage around the end of the vanes will be excessive. Anyway, I've found this Mylar sheet on eBay which is 75microns, so that will have to do. It may well be that this is what thickness the gasket originally was anyway. I thought that Mylar would cope with the heat and pressure better than any other plastic I could think of. I've ordered some of that, so if you need any just let me know. You might just want to change the oil and see if that's all you have to do. I've ordered 5 litres of ISO40 grade compressor oil so at least I'll be able to change the oil a few times. 20200621_111035 by The train Man, on Flickr This is where that gasket goes. 20200621_111054 by The train Man, on Flickr
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Post by pault on Jun 21, 2020 14:25:51 GMT
That thick plastic gasket may actually be acting as a shim. The gap between the rotor and cover is critical to the performance of the pump. Too much and you won’t make the pressure you want, too small and the compressor may seize. The gap between the rotor and stator can have the same effect if it is adjustable.
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Post by jem on Jun 21, 2020 16:17:46 GMT
What about gasket goo and if necessary a shim as a spacer Roger? One way of removing stuck alien bolts, is to put a carbon rod on the head,connect the earth lead and then turn on the arc welder, the idea being to heat just the bolt up, this needs a little practise, but does work very well.
best wishes
Jem
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Post by Roger on Jun 21, 2020 16:25:12 GMT
That thick plastic gasket may actually be acting as a shim. The gap between the rotor and cover is critical to the performance of the pump. Too much and you won’t make the pressure you want, too small and the compressor may seize. The gap between the rotor and stator can have the same effect if it is adjustable. Hi Paul, That's certainly possible, they may have been built will different shims. I'll measure the Mylar film when it arrives to see what thickness it actually is. It's rare to buy any sheet material and find it's as advertised.
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Post by Roger on Jun 21, 2020 16:27:44 GMT
What about gasket goo and if necessary a shim as a spacer Roger? One way of removing stuck alien bolts, is to put a carbon rod on the head,connect the earth lead and then turn on the arc welder, the idea being to heat just the bolt up, this needs a little practise, but does work very well. best wishes Jem Hi Jem, I'll have to see what thickness the Mylar film is. If it's on the thin side, I'll add some liquid gasket to make up the difference if it's only a small amount. That's an interesting way of removing Allen bolts. I think you'd have to be very careful on this assembly though because the casing is an Aluminium alloy.
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Post by Roger on Jun 21, 2020 18:18:56 GMT
The domed washout covers are hinged like this on 1501... 20140204_113655 by Roger Froud, on Flickr ... but I'm making them fixed. This is the first attempt which used nibs to retain the parts in the stock. That proved to be unworkable because the parts are so small. 20200613_211517 by The train Man, on Flickr This time I used Superglue to hold the sheet down to the White plastic covered board... 20200614_204228 by The train Man, on Flickr ... which held them on too firmly to be removed. However, a quick look on google found that Superglue is dissolved by Acetone, so I cut them out, complete with backing board and let them soak overnight in a small glass jar of Acetone. 20200614_205656 by The train Man, on Flickr That worked a treat, and they fell off without any effort at all. 20200621_171858 by The train Man, on Flickr So this was made from 0.6mm thick sheet, with the dummy hinge being 3D machined in the surface while the outside thickness was reduced to 0.2mm 20200621_173258 by The train Man, on Flickr 20200621_173221 by The train Man, on Flickr
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