|
Post by 92220 on Jun 21, 2020 18:28:07 GMT
Hi Roger. Mine started making a funny noise when it got up to around 80psi. I think I shall have to follow your lead and take it apart. I only use mine on demand. I had better go change the oil. I do have a reservoir on mine but I still use it for short bursts, as needed. I've also got a leak somewhere. I don't think it's the compressor though. I have so many connections around the place that I'm sure it must be one of those. The reinforced plastic hose tends to harden over time and leak at a joint. Bob. Hi Bob, Just be aware that the bolts may be a real challenge to get out. I used a hex drive with my miniature socket set to undo mine. The bolts are deep below the surface so you have to use the long end of the Allen key to reach them. My Allen keys just twisted when faced with the load. I had to press them hard into the hex socket head to make sure it didn't come out and I had to put a tube over the handle to get enough leverage to undo them. The ones on the first part of the assembly are short M8 x 25, so you can replace those easily enough. The others are really long, M6 x 134mm. I've found M6 x 140 at Boltbase on eBay and the the others in Stainless Steel, so I'll replace those while I'm at it. I'm wondering if the noises I've been hearing on startup are from too much oil getting into the vane section. That would be incompressible and account for the mechanical noise. The vibration may have been there all along, the vanes will make the rotating assembly out of balance so maybe there's nothing else wrong. There's a really think plastic gasket on the inner vane section, and mine has a fold in it. It's hard to know whether that leaked or not though. The material is only 64microns thick as measured by micrometer, and I can't find gasket material that thin. I has to be like that else the leakage around the end of the vanes will be excessive. Anyway, I've found this Mylar sheet on eBay which is 75microns, so that will have to do. It may well be that this is what thickness the gasket originally was anyway. I thought that Mylar would cope with the heat and pressure better than any other plastic I could think of. I've ordered some of that, so if you need any just let me know. You might just want to change the oil and see if that's all you have to do. I've ordered 5 litres of ISO40 grade compressor oil so at least I'll be able to change the oil a few times. 20200621_111035 by The train Man, on Flickr This is where that gasket goes. 20200621_111054 by The train Man, on Flickr Thanks Roger. That's handy to know before I get into a mess!! Bob.
|
|
milky
Seasoned Member
Posts: 120
|
Post by milky on Jun 21, 2020 21:16:12 GMT
Roger, I am not sure iso 40 compressor oil will cut it. Hydrovanes require something a little different than standard compressors (westway, Morris, smith and alan all do the correct spec) As for a reciever keep your eyes on gumtree, facebook marketplace etc for knackered compressors.
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jun 21, 2020 21:25:21 GMT
Roger, I am not sure iso 40 compressor oil will cut it. Hydrovanes require something a little different than standard compressors (westway, Morris, smith and alan all do the correct spec) As for a reciever keep your eyes on gumtree, facebook marketplace etc for knackered compressors. Hi Phil, The oil I've bought is specified for Hydrovane compressors from Smith & Allan. Surprisingly there is 40 grade motor oil in the list of acceptable lubricants too. Thanks for the tip on the receiver, they're pretty dear if you buy them new.
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jun 21, 2020 22:00:47 GMT
Time to add the holes in the firebox cladding to take the domed washout covers. Here I'm setting the High Speed Spindle centre line to a piece of bar in the rotary table. 20200621_204258 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I decided to use the outer firebox wrapper former to support the cladding while it's being drilled. Here I'm using a parallel and some shims to set it level. This is all a bit rough and ready really, it's not a precision job. 20200621_204945 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The end of the former is going to be the reference for the postion of the holes along the firebox. 20200621_205856 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I know from the CAD model that the holes are 1.633mm from the centre line when it's turned through 41 degrees and 23 minutes. I'm setting it to that, but of course the cladding has to sit precisely as it is in the model for any of this to be right. Anyway, I'm using two pieces of foam to simulate the lagging. It's slightly too thick, but it's close enough. Both sides will be done the same way, so they should be pretty close to each other. I'm using three releasable cable ties to keep it firmly in place while I drill it. 20200621_220459 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I'm drilling the end holes and also the small ones where the hinge is attached to the cover. That way it will be riveted with four rivets and that should make it much more secure. 20200621_221835 by Roger Froud, on Flickr The LH wrapper was done in the same way, remembering to put the offset on the other side of the Y-axis of course. 20200621_224801 by Roger Froud, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Jun 22, 2020 1:40:12 GMT
Hi Roger, Just a slight tech. correction if I may ?.........Those are Mudhole Door covers, not washouts as you called them......The hump is to clear the bridge piece when fitted......
|
|
|
Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 22, 2020 7:23:13 GMT
I thought mudholes were the ones down at foundation ring level, for removing the sediment from the bottom of the boiler?
Even though these ones at the top of the firebox casing seem to utilise the same type of door and bridge piece, surely they are for washing out purposes, i.e. squirting water through, not for the removal of anything. I suppose the final arbiter is- what do the Swindon drawings call them?
|
|
|
Post by 92220 on Jun 22, 2020 7:33:55 GMT
Hi Alan.
Thanks for posting that photo of the mudhole doors. I've been trying to find one for ages. There isn't a drawing of them, available from the NRM. What is the thread size? From that I can work out the approx dimensions.
Bob.
|
|
tony9f
Involved Member
Posts: 95
|
Post by tony9f on Jun 22, 2020 7:40:06 GMT
Usually these little doors higher up the boiler are known as handholes. By the way Roger that is amazing work.
Tony
|
|
|
Post by 92220 on Jun 22, 2020 7:44:12 GMT
I have just checked my BR drawing of the clothing. It actually calls them Washout Doors.
Bob.
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Jun 22, 2020 10:22:40 GMT
Hello all,
In GWR parlance they were known as "Mudhole Doors" ( Ref. Book. = G.W.R. ---- steam locomotives by E.J.Nutty ) irrespective of which position they are in......The four on the corners of the firebox had stiffener rings riveted to the inside of the boiler.....Certainly when I attended MiC classes they were still known as Mudhole Doors..
Collectively both the Washout Plug holes and the Mudholes were to gain access to the waterspace between the inner and outer wrappers ( and tubes ) in order to facilitate a complete washdown programme which could take anything up to a full day in some cases......
The word "Mud" is a bit of a misnomer as generally the resultant slurry is a combination of oxides from the tubes and firebox being washed away by a high pressure water jet and is a pinkish colour.....
As with any regional variations so names will vary according to differing Railway companies I imagine although a "Hand Hole" they definitely are NOT !!
After Nationalisation I would image things changed again ?? BR drawings are post Nat. and therefore not of GWR. period...
Incidentally if you look at the open end of the threaded piece on a mudhole door assembly you'll see a small, threaded hole in the end.....any ideas what that's all about ??
Finally}--- High Bob, I don't have access to an assembly so cant tell you the size requested--- but I'll bear that in mind if we ever get out of this lockdown scenario......I think a Motorbike ride to the SVR Museum at Kidderminster Station is on the books.....
|
|
tony9f
Involved Member
Posts: 95
|
Post by tony9f on Jun 22, 2020 10:58:49 GMT
In reply to Delaplumes last post, when you say "handholes they definately are NOT" are you refering to the terminology or the function? I accept that different industries use different terminology for things but without being pedantic, there are four types of doors fitted to the shells of boilers, namely, manholes, headholes, mudholes and handholes and usually positioned in specific places. Just trying to be helpful.
Tony
|
|
|
Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 22, 2020 12:04:56 GMT
Manholes are for putting a man in, headholes are for putting your head in, handholes are for putting your hand in, so are mudholes for putting mud in???
|
|
baldric
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 208
|
Post by baldric on Jun 22, 2020 12:10:22 GMT
At Didcot I have only ever heard them called mud-hole doors, regardless of where they are on the boiler. The similar, but larger doors, found on the SRM, cranes, traction engines and some air-receivers I have heard called arm & man-holes though.
Regarding the hole in the end of the threaded part, I do know what it is for, I have a feeling they are not part of the original design and not everyone has done the same, all I can say is that I have never had to curse that I had not made use of the hole!
Baldric.
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Jun 22, 2020 12:24:45 GMT
This M20 cable gland arrived today. This size goes up to a cable diameter big enough to clamp over the outside of the connector supplied with the LED lights. 20200622_124604 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I had to open out the hole in the sheet metal for it, but it's a simple solution to provide a sealed connection to the lights. 20200622_124622 by Roger Froud, on Flickr
|
|
stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
|
Post by stevep on Jun 22, 2020 13:33:05 GMT
I'd have thought you would have 3D printed that Roger - then you wouldn't have had to wait.
|
|
|
Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 22, 2020 15:03:34 GMT
At Didcot I have only ever heard them called mud-hole doors, regardless of where they are on the boiler. The similar, but larger doors, found on the SRM, cranes, traction engines and some air-receivers I have heard called arm & man-holes though. Regarding the hole in the end of the threaded part, I do know what it is for, I have a feeling they are not part of the original design and not everyone has done the same, all I can say is that I have never had to curse that I had not made use of the hole! Baldric. Do you think the holes in the end might be a later simplification to enable the cover to be held on with a screw or bolt, rather than the hinge and latch system?
|
|
|
Post by andyhigham on Jun 22, 2020 15:51:46 GMT
My guess the tapped hole in the end is to attach a lanyard in case of butter fingers
|
|
baldric
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 208
|
Post by baldric on Jun 22, 2020 16:17:35 GMT
Do you think the holes in the end might be a later simplification to enable the cover to be held on with a screw or bolt, rather than the hinge and latch system? No, they need to be easy to access as they should be checked for leaks by the crew at the beginning of every turn. Baldric.
|
|
|
Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 22, 2020 19:37:04 GMT
If it was a small plain hole, I'd guess that it was a tell-tale - if steam comes out of it, it means the bolt is cracked. Otherwise I don't have a clue what its for.
|
|
don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 960
|
Post by don9f on Jun 22, 2020 19:40:12 GMT
If you’ve ever experienced one of the upper mudhole doors (some call them “mid feather doors”) accidentally being dropped down inside the water space, you’d know they can be very difficult to extricate, especially on bigger boilers! Having a tapped hole in the end allows a handle or such to be attached to help stop that happening during washouts/inspections etc.
Don
|
|