uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 12, 2020 8:50:11 GMT
Yes, it's a pipe sealant. I haven't seen any for years, but remember it being used with hemp fibres on threaded gas pipe joints. I see it's still listed for sale - £3.48 for a 400g tub. Claims it's suitable for high temp. BOSS product brochureWilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 11, 2020 15:00:06 GMT
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Post by uuu on Apr 11, 2020 14:56:54 GMT
AS it happens there is a big one on one side and a smaller one on the other.
There's another thought, which might come into play. Many loco valve gears are to the side of the primary motion - the outside in Walshaerts. Even with an offset in the valve spindle/buckle, the valve chest and ports may not be centrally above the cylinder bore. So the transfer passages will arrive at one end of the port. Not really significant, but the designer might want to bias things slightly one way? Clutching at straws here.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 11, 2020 12:06:18 GMT
In my own loco, they're offset to be clear of the front cover fixing stud. That's on the front - the rear passages are central, and there is no centre stud - it would foul the slide bar support.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 11, 2020 10:33:18 GMT
Ken Swan's "Wren" design had an air bottle on the crosshead pump - I suppose the prototype had this also, as it's quite prominent.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 11, 2020 10:27:19 GMT
The only way to put that argument to bed would be to fit one of each to a loco and install a thermocouple on the cylinder end of each superheater. Then log the temperatures during a running session. My personal view is that the return leg of a hairpin radiant superheater will be losing heat to the flue gasses. A concentric with the return up the middle will only lose heat to the incoming steam thus keeping the heat in the system I believe this experiment has been done, and the hairpin style was superior. There are all sorts of quasi-thermodynamic arguments in favour/against each type, but the experiment was properly arranged (was it Jim Ewins?), so appears to trump the discussion. Nevertheless, I shall be fitting the concentric type to my own loco. Everything is a compromise. Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 10, 2020 10:29:23 GMT
Here's a design from an exhibition, using two scissor jacks: Scissor jack turning rig.For a finished loco, I have seen a carrying frame rather like you'd have a petrol generator in. So once the loco was inside it could be upended or inverted. Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 9, 2020 15:09:07 GMT
There's room in the Jessie design to incorporate an o-ring. I've had the boiler built to the drawings, but added a groove in the dome top. If you did the sandwich idea you could have an o-ring on both sides.
Wilf
PS - another feature of the Jessie design that I like is the fixing of the dome using bolts and nuts. Nicer, I think, than studs screwed into the flange - and there's room under the flange to get them in/do them up.
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Post by uuu on Apr 9, 2020 14:59:58 GMT
Yes - that's exactly how Jessie's looks. JessieDome by Wilf, on Flickr Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 9, 2020 14:11:20 GMT
Jessie has a partial platform that is integral to the dome bush, to support the regulator in a very similar way to your proposal. If this weren't built into the boiler at the start, it could form a sandwich plate between the dome bush and the dome top.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 8, 2020 20:32:48 GMT
You're confused because they look alike - could be twins.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 8, 2020 14:44:15 GMT
I think these are the lamps on Keith's Speedy photos. I wondered why they were turned inwards - thinking that they'd be more use shining forwards. Hopefully we're about to get an explanation.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 7, 2020 15:40:06 GMT
I don't think the multi-hole nozzle is a cutting one - the holes are really tiny, and they all deliver oxy/gas mix, there's no pure oxygen feed. It fits straight on the standard handle. I've not tried butane - but have found a discussion thread on another site: ME forumWilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 7, 2020 11:23:40 GMT
For building Steve's Brit boiler, he and I mainly used Sievert 2943 burners, which are about 35mm across the end. They're rated at 43.5Kw. We tried a 2944 one (50mm), rated at 86Kw - that's the one we set fire to things with. For smaller things, like fittings, I quite like the cyclone burners John has at the Pumphouse. At home I use a 3941 burner (22mm) rated at 3.1Kw. Roger's 30mm one might be like a 2942 - 32mm 26Kw.
John's oxy-propane kit is really excellent. Like you he didn't like renting the bottles, but now uses a bought bottle of hobby oxygen, which is more economical. The same torch is used as for acetylene, but we've been using a nozzle that has a small ring of holes around a central one. This gives a slightly softer flame.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 6, 2020 18:25:40 GMT
Are the bearings a bit like this: So you can thread slide the ends onto the crankshaft, but not the middle one. In which case Jason's suggestion sounds like the right idea. Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 3, 2020 12:29:57 GMT
Today is a riveting day. Since the Pumphouse is not operating normally, I can't get there to use the lovely fly press, and not having a rivet squeezer either, I've been whacking them and the snaps with a hammer.
I'm getting better with practice. Only one has gone completely wrong so far - it went sideways and refused to behave, so I chiselled the head off, and drilled it out. I suspect the drill enlarged the hole a little - I should have allowed for this in setting the replacement rivet, but didn't, so the head is a bit undersized.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 2, 2020 10:05:37 GMT
Welcome! You seem to have some luck on your side, with the lathe, and the support of your club. If you can keep us up to date on your progress, and post pictures as you go, you'll get some feedback here. And asking questions will get you all sorts of opinions and ideas to consider.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 1, 2020 6:45:31 GMT
I think I'm with Jo on this one. But perhaps a club could invite any member who's been financially screwed by these events to make a confidential approach for a waiver of fees?
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Mar 30, 2020 15:44:53 GMT
That's how it looks for me - just an over-large gap between paragraphs. Clicking or right-clicking in the space does nothing. I can expose the URLs for the pictures by clicking "Quote". I'm using the MS Edge browser.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Mar 28, 2020 14:13:37 GMT
If you move the valve to the "apply" (or "on") position, the brakes will come on with increasing vigour, until the wheels lock up. If you want a less fierce braking, you move to "apply" for only a short time, then back to "lap". The brakes will then stay at that level. You can increase the brakes a bit by a further short movement to "apply", or let them off a bit with a short movement to "release" (or "off").
In a vacuum system, the apply position admits air into the train pipe, the release position sucks air out. Lap holds everything steady.
Wilf
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