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Post by drjohn on Jun 26, 2010 9:37:33 GMT
Now, now boys - you're all off topic and spoiling Shawki's thread! DJ
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jun 26, 2010 10:40:45 GMT
Thanks all for your remarks of all kinds , I don't mind people making remarks off the topic as exchange of ideas are useful to us all . I can't certify my own boiler therefore another inspector in our club does that , we have now three inspectors in our club .DJ, the answer to your question is no but if he was in our club I would be pleased if he inspected my boiler . The procedure here is if one make changes to the boiler of any kind after being certified , it should be retested by a boiler inspector to 1.5 operating pressure and re certified , failing to do that the first test is no longer valid .I don't really know what did you do to the boiler , regardless , this incident or for that matter any other incident does not make our system not safe or not one of the best .Just for information Barry Potter has build a large number of beautiful engines and even larger number of boilers , I am not sure of the number but it could be over 50 and he is the designer of the Blowfly and built a number of them as well.He is a highly respected builder and model engineer in Australia. One may be driving one of the best cars on the market over the cliff and kills all the occupants, that does not mean the car is bad at all , there must be other reasons . I am still working on the engine bogie and I will post some information soon .
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Jun 27, 2010 5:17:35 GMT
G'day DJ you always make me laugh! ;D ;D Shawki you are always an encourager. Regards Ian
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jun 28, 2010 9:46:49 GMT
I have finished making parts for engine front bogie , next I will have to drill and tap a lot of holes to assemble the unit and that is what I will be doing in the next few days. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jul 8, 2010 9:21:44 GMT
I have assembled the engine bogie . I am now working on making parts for Tender bogies and other small bits and pieces .( on the day I choose what to make depending on feeling ?? , I may stop a job and start on another one for no good reason ) . Bottom view Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jul 8, 2010 9:22:59 GMT
Top view . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Aug 11, 2010 9:13:49 GMT
Since my last posting I have been slowly working on making boiler fittings for this engine , good clean work , no cast iron dust every where particularly up in the nose . It takes a long time to make these little parts and shows not much progress on overall job but necessary for the engine . The fittings are labeled , the manifold has four valves from left to right :- Injector steam valve , blower valve , Steam pump valve , and last one whistle valve .Next to the safety valves is a tool for adjusting safety valves , consist of a SS bar with a hole and two pegs to fit the top part of the valve . The valve are of pop type , 1/4" dia hole and 9/32" dia ball . The vacuum brake valve is to supply steam for passenger car brakes .The rest as labeled . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Aug 20, 2010 9:24:20 GMT
For the last week or so I have been working on a double acting hand pump for the the tender , this was topic was in another thread and many were interested in it so I decided to put the information here . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Aug 20, 2010 9:31:12 GMT
Here are all the parts excluding fasteners . The body is a casting but it can easily be fabricated . The body/piston are bronze ,ram/links/pins/handle are SS and the rest are brass . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Aug 20, 2010 9:32:56 GMT
Here is the assembled pump . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Aug 20, 2010 9:37:03 GMT
Here is a small modification to the pump , the two ball lifting rods , the purpose of these is to pull up to unseat the bottom balls if they happen to stick and give trouble . Quick fix , I have used this idea before and it works well and overcome frustration of pump not working . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 5, 2010 0:07:58 GMT
Hi all Progress report again , this time is the water tank for the tender , two photos showing the basic construction . All brass construction , all joints riveted ( approximately 1000 rivets ) and soft soldered . The half round beading is annealed and shaped as required then clamped in place using high tech very expensive clamps ( six 1/8" SS split pins , 25 years old ) and soft soldered . The SS split pins are great , they don't stick to soft solder , they are not in the way when soldering because of size and sort of spring like and don't loosen when hot . The excess solder is then scraped away using 1/4 square lathe tool fitted in old file handle , it removes solder like butter . There is a lot of work to do yet on the tank such as fitting the hand pump in , front handrail , covers , water filler ,tool boxes etc.. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 5, 2010 0:08:49 GMT
Second photo Attachments:
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Post by Jim on Sept 5, 2010 13:21:14 GMT
Lovely and inspirational work Shawki. Any chance of seeing it run when completed at Orange ME for their annual scale 5"g NSWGR Day?
Jim
edit, My apologies Shawki, for misspelling your name. The correction has been made.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 6, 2010 9:40:14 GMT
Jim I don't know when it will finish as I don't work as many hours on it as I use to do in the past . Age and computer has its effect .
Mike , the non functional rivets are just normal riveting , don't have to be flush inside . Holding the tender for riveting is developed over the years of building many tenders . I hold the snap in one vice , on a close another vice I hold a piece of timber to the same height , on the other side I organize another support at same height , each rivet is placed in the hole and a piece of tape stuck on it to hold it in place while I maneuver the tender in place and sometimes I need to place a weight to balance the tender , now the role of the hammer/and a drift comes , that is for each and every rivet . Soft soldering of the joints is as you guessed progressive , that way less is left for last and complicated operation . I flux the joint ( one at a time ) and use a blow torch of decent size heating softly and applying solder from one end to another , allow to cool , clean ,scrape excess solder and then onto the next joint . For the beading I have explained above but I missed to say that I do most of it on the subassembly before putting all the parts together , like sides ,back etc.. I Hope I have answered your questions .
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Post by drjohn on Sept 6, 2010 11:29:31 GMT
Amazingly good Shawki - you seem to have the patience of a saint - well done and keep it coming.
DJ
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 7, 2010 10:07:04 GMT
Thanks gentlemen .
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 17, 2010 9:24:51 GMT
Progress report , the tank is completed and painted mat black ,thank God riveting is over for the time being . to finish the tender I have to complete the bogies and brakes , some parts are made but I am short of some materials , so its on the shelf , I will go back on the engine and start on the running boards and splashers , some more riveting but not as hard as the tank . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 17, 2010 9:25:44 GMT
Second photo . Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Oct 3, 2010 9:11:17 GMT
Reporting some progress , running boards , splashers and sand boxes . The running boards are only sitting on the engine for the photo, halve a dozen screws hold each running board in place , they will be easily removable for access if need to do so . Attachments:
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